[Jtstein98]

So father son project saved an 86 all original low mile SVO from the grave sat (estimated) since late 90’s but very clean solid car. Issue we’re having is we cannot get it to run, you turn the key to start it and it will sort of sputter/run while cranking but let go of the key and it immediately stops. Parts replaced are ignition switch, full fuel system from tank to injectors, starter, voltage regulator, cap, coil, wires, plugs. We have looked over all of the wiring for the ignition system and it is all in good shape wiring is not dry rotted or mouse chewed.. volt tested power cranking and in the run position on the coil and both are getting power but everything we try still cannot get it to start and stay running. Fuel pressure is good and timing is set and verified correct. Really through the ignition switch was the issue but we have a new switch in it and still same problem. Any ideas at this point well give a shot just want to get it running! Thanks in advance!

 

[crjackson]

Welcome and thank you for joining ALLFORDMUSTANGS!
Please read the Site Rules if you haven’t already.
We encourage you to complete your Account Settings.
If you need help posting, please read this FAQ.

We’re happy you have chosen to be a part of our community.

Someone will be along shortly to offer advice.

 

[Roachwe]

Did you inspect the injectors? Maybe old fuel has clogged several of them.

 

[Hazey]

How sure are you that the timing was set relative to TDC on the compression stroke? Pretty easy to stab the distributor in 180° out and it would still show as correct when tested with a timing light.

 

[Jtstein98]

Did you inspect the injectors? Maybe old fuel has clogged several of them.

Yes injectors and rail have been removed injectors we’re sent out to be cleaned and flow tested

How sure are you that the timing was set relative to TDC on the compression stroke? Pretty easy to stab the distributor in 180° out and it would still show as correct when tested with a timing light.

Pretty positive on the timing, front cover is off so we can see the marks to line it up to double check it and it’s correct. Nearly certain it’s ignition related because as soon as you turn the key to the run position acts as though it cuts power. Doesn’t continue to sputter or try to run just stops as soon as the starter stops turning over

 

[Hazey]

Sorry, I should have specified ignition timing. I believe you're talking about cam timing since you mentioned having the front cover off. If the distributor is 180° out the spark plugs will fire at the top of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.

 

[Cobrajet67]

So father son project saved an 86 all original low mile SVO from the grave sat (estimated) since late 90’s but very clean solid car. Issue we’re having is we cannot get it to run, you turn the key to start it and it will sort of sputter/run while cranking but let go of the key and it immediately stops. Parts replaced are ignition switch, full fuel system from tank to injectors, starter, voltage regulator, cap, coil, wires, plugs. We have looked over all of the wiring for the ignition system and it is all in good shape wiring is not dry rotted or mouse chewed.. volt tested power cranking and in the run position on the coil and both are getting power but everything we try still cannot get it to start and stay running. Fuel pressure is good and timing is set and verified correct. Really through the ignition switch was the issue but we have a new switch in it and still same problem. Any ideas at this point well give a shot just want to get it running! Thanks in advance!

The ignition module is a common failure point. It's referred to as a TFI module:

Only buy the Motorcraft brand part# DY1284 or expect a quick death of whichever other brand that you buy: 1986 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L 140cid L4 Turbocharged Ignition Control Module (ICM) | RockAuto
When you said it basically almost runs as the starter is engaged but dies out when the starter is disengaged this was the first thing to pop in my mind.
You should check for injector ground pulse at the injector connectors. It won't matter if you have fuel pressure or not if there's nothing to trigger the injectors to fire. The injectors should always have 12v at all times when the ignition is on but should only have a short ground pulse given to each injector circuit from the PCM when it's cranking over or running.

 

[Jtstein98]

The ignition module is a common failure point. It's referred to as a TFI module:
View attachment 790836

Only buy the Motorcraft brand part# DY1284 or expect a quick death of whichever other brand that you buy: 1986 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L 140cid L4 Turbocharged Ignition Control Module (ICM) | RockAuto
When you said it basically almost runs as the starter is engaged but dies out when the starter is disengaged this was the first thing to pop in my mind.
You should check for injector ground pulse at the injector connectors. It won't matter if you have fuel pressure or not if there's nothing to trigger the injectors to fire. The injectors should always have 12v at all times when the ignition is on but should only have a short ground pulse given to each injector circuit from the PCM when it's cranking over or running.

That’s where we’re at right now too is the TFI just looking at ways to test it before we continue to throw parts at it if you know what I mean, and yes injector pulse was tested with volt meter and noid light

Well replaced TFI and still the same.. checked over timing again and from my knowledge of the research I’ve done the timing is correct, set at TDC crank is lined up to the marks and the cam gear and distributor gear and aligned with eachother and distributor is firing on #1 unless I’m missing something? I was able to get a video for reference.. she wants to run but man this car is putting up a fight

post is not letting me add the video from my phone anyone know a way I can share the video?

 

[OX1]

What about the pickup in the distr itself?

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX222T

And for that matter, what are the primary/secondary resistances on the coil. What is the voltage to the coil (how about during crank)?
SPOUT connector in/out?

 

[Jtstein98]

What about the pickup in the distr itself?

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX222T

And for that matter, what are the primary/secondary resistances on the coil. What is the voltage to the coil (how about during crank)?
SPOUT connector in/out?

The pickup we have not checked since we have verified good clean spark on all 4 cylinders but is a possibility, primary and secondary windings on the coil both tested within spec coil is new, and voltage during crank stays within spec as well does not drop. I have not yet tried cranking with the spout connector removed but worth a shot!

Can anyone link a detailed walkthrough or a video for setting the timing from the start? The timing belt was dry rotted and broken when we first got the car and we put a new belt on it but wouldn’t hurt to look through it all again just to verify for sure the timing is correct

 

[Cobrajet67]

Can anyone link a detailed walkthrough or a video for setting the timing from the start? The timing belt was dry rotted and broken when we first got the car and we put a new belt on it but wouldn’t hurt to look through it all again just to verify for sure the timing is correct

This is an important detail that you left out. Your problem is likely timing related.
If you have verified that the plugs are indeed firing, you have reasonable compression, and the injectors are firing too then it's a timing issue.

 

[Jtstein98]

This is an important detail that you left out. Your problem is likely timing related.
If you have verified that the plugs are indeed firing, you have reasonable compression, and the injectors are firing too then it's a timing issue.

Yea sorry about that had gone through a LOT on this car already but we are fairly certain we have the timing correct but again doesn’t hurt to double check! Any chance you know of a write up somewhere that I could follow to set the timing just to have a reference while I go through it again? Thanks

 

[OX1]

First, pull #1 spark plug, put a wooden dowel down in hole. Turn engine by hand until #1 is at TDC (you also have to verify somehow that both valves are closed).

Check rotor in distr and make sure it is real close to where #1 spark plug wire connects on distr. cap. I usually scribe a small line on lower distr cap, at exactly where #1 would fire with no timing, and #1 @ TDC. At least then you know you should be in the ballpark when putting distr. in.

 

[Jtstein98]

Ok so made more progress today got the timing looked over and it is all correct and while testing other things we noticed the fuel pump (new) isn’t kicking on anymore. Put power to it and it did kick on but key forward it’s not getting power. Pulled the relay under the seat and the pink/black (power or signal) wire is NOT getting 12v with the key in the run position like it should… anyone have a diagram to back track this up under the hood? I know it should track to the voltage regulator somewhere with a fusible link but not sure where/what color wire to look for

 

[Roachwe]

Does this help?

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/0h5zy-1986-ford-musting-svo-2-3-turbo-fuel-pump-does.html

 

[OX1]

Ok so made more progress today got the timing looked over and it is all correct and while testing other things we noticed the fuel pump (new) isn’t kicking on anymore. Put power to it and it did kick on but key forward it’s not getting power. Pulled the relay under the seat and the pink/black (power or signal) wire is NOT getting 12v with the key in the run position like it should… anyone have a diagram to back track this up under the hood? I know it should track to the voltage regulator somewhere with a fusible link but not sure where/what color wire to look for

Appears that if EEC relay is getting a power feed, FP relay also should be. The other two relay connections, not going to the FP, both come from the EEC.

 

[chilsam]

Best $ I spent on my project

 

[Eragone]

So father son project saved an 86 all original low mile SVO from the grave sat (estimated) since late 90’s but very clean solid car. Issue we’re having is we cannot get it to run, you turn the key to start it and it will sort of sputter/run while cranking but let go of the key and it immediately stops. Parts replaced are ignition switch, full fuel system from tank to injectors, starter, voltage regulator, cap, coil, wires, plugs. We have looked over all of the wiring for the ignition system and it is all in good shape wiring is not dry rotted or mouse chewed.. volt tested power cranking and in the run position on the coil and both are getting power but everything we try still cannot get it to start and stay running. Fuel pressure is good and timing is set and verified correct. Really through the ignition switch was the issue but we have a new switch in it and still same problem. Any ideas at this point well give a shot just want to get it running! Thanks in advance!

Is there a vacuum line, say leading to the transmission. Possibly the transmission of modulator? That may be sucking in a small amount of transmission fluid. Does the engine run at high RPMs?

 

[Jarhead1967]

So father son project saved an 86 all original low mile SVO from the grave sat (estimated) since late 90’s but very clean solid car. Issue we’re having is we cannot get it to run, you turn the key to start it and it will sort of sputter/run while cranking but let go of the key and it immediately stops. Parts replaced are ignition switch, full fuel system from tank to injectors, starter, voltage regulator, cap, coil, wires, plugs. We have looked over all of the wiring for the ignition system and it is all in good shape wiring is not dry rotted or mouse chewed.. volt tested power cranking and in the run position on the coil and both are getting power but everything we try still cannot get it to start and stay running. Fuel pressure is good and timing is set and verified correct. Really through the ignition switch was the issue but we have a new switch in it and still same problem. Any ideas at this point well give a shot just want to get it running! Thanks in advance!

So father son project saved an 86 all original low mile SVO from the grave sat (estimated) since late 90’s but very clean solid car. Issue we’re having is we cannot get it to run, you turn the key to start it and it will sort of sputter/run while cranking but let go of the key and it immediately stops. Parts replaced are ignition switch, full fuel system from tank to injectors, starter, voltage regulator, cap, coil, wires, plugs. We have looked over all of the wiring for the ignition system and it is all in good shape wiring is not dry rotted or mouse chewed.. volt tested power cranking and in the run position on the coil and both are getting power but everything we try still cannot get it to start and stay running. Fuel pressure is good and timing is set and verified correct. Really through the ignition switch was the issue but we have a new switch in it and still same problem. Any ideas at this point well give a shot just want to get it running! Thanks in advance!

It looks like you have gotten some good advice, but no one has stressed the importance of good grounds. Look for engine to chassis ground, battery to engine ground, battery to fender ground (which has a separate ground wire from ECU).
Also check the fuel pump inertia switch in the rear of the car by the taillight’s. Reset it if necessary.
And this next one hasn’t been mentioned: remove the ECU and pop the cover so you can check the capacitors. They leak with age, which causes corrosion. That would cause lots of problems, most of which are ‘phantom‘ problems. That’s what the main problem was in my car. All the capacitor posts were corroded causing misfi, hard starting, intermittent problems with power to the fuel pump, etc...

 

[Jtstein98]

Continuing the journey of trying to get our 86 SVO running again after sitting for 20+ years, where we are at now is over the last 2 months or so of trying to get it running all new fuel system from go back out power to the fuel pump and the harness behind the tank and pump runs but pump does not prime. It DOES spit out some fuel while cranking but not enough to run. Tested fuel pump relay and we’re not getting power at the pink/black wire. Inertia switch it not tripped so thinking it may be a fusible link. Best way to finding this?? Plan is to trace the pink/black wire to where it goes under the hood and following the harness till it meets a fusible link where I’m hoping it’s blown and replacing will fix it is this correct? Key in the run position pink/black wire should show 12v? Anyone have a wiring diagram for the fuel pump relay where I can see what wires where on the regulator feed the power?

also EEC self test grounding out the fuel pump does not run the pump either.