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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone give me a heads up on what else needs to be done when I install my Oil pan onto my 1987 GT. I bought a used one of E-Bay from an '89 with the double sump ad low oil level sensor hole. The pan comes with the pick up. I cracked mine at the front drain plug and it leaks about a teaspoon a night, I'm wondering if it would be wise to do the motor mounts at this time and I'm also wondering if there is anything inside the oil pan itself that should be replaced as long as I've got to install another one thats is not cracked? Does the pick up go bad? is this one of those instances that "if its not broke, then don't fix it"? What is the best gasket? What i do know about the oiling system now is that even before the crack, my pressure would dip down low(not in the red) on the gauge; especially at a standstill, but as soon as i rev it or take off from a stop, the pressure would go right to the normal or mid range of the gauge. My final question is... is it true that on 5.0L double sump pans, that you are suppose to drain the front sump and rear sump plugs at every oil change? My mechanic buddy who knows a wide variety of cars but surely doesn't specialize in Fords claims that i am suppose to drain both at every oil change...I guess it makes sense, but I've never heard that. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.
 

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since your car is twenty years old now, doing the motor mounts when you pull the motor for the oil pan swap would be a good idea. low oil pressure more likely indicates wear on the engine bearings, not a bad oil pump or pickup, so they probably don't need to be replaced unless you really want to. and finally, yes, you are supposed to drain both drain plugs at each oil change and alot of people don't know this since i believe that a double-sump oil pan is pretty much unique to fox-body cars
 

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bdbolling19 is right about it probally being the bearings are going bad...if you got the money it's probally not a bad choice to replace the bottem end at this point since you gotta pull the engine anyways...also about the double hump oil pan...if you jack your front end up when u change the oil...because it is at an incline..you don't neccisarly have to drain both...because they oil from the front is going to go to the back, because of the incline...now if you take your car in to get it changed then yes...because it will be flat and the oil will not go to the back...also your gonna wanna get the fel-pro all in one gasket...it is a really nice gasket and it's one piece...not seperate peices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help to both of you, but i don't wanna pull the engine to do this; i know i probably should do the bottom end but it's not in my budget right now. I thought you could undo the engine mounts and remove a couple things underneath like sway bar or steering rack allowing you to jack the engine up several inches and then slide the pan out the back. My mechanic friend who does anything I can't claims you can get around pulling the whole motor. What engine mounts are a good replacement for a very lightly modified top end? the car is basically stock. thanks Charlie and bdboiling.
 

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you're right that it is possible to get around pulling the motor to swap the oil pan, but from what i've heard and seen it really is the easier way to go. if you decide not to pull the motor though, you unbolt the motor mounts, jack the motor up a few inches and put blocks of wood between the mounts and the frame to keep it there. next, remove the starter and the pan should be able to be wiggled out the back. on another note, don't worry about the oil pressure to much right now, go get a mechanical checker gauge and thread it into the pressure sender fitting. if you have less than 10psi at idle, then you have a problem, but i doubt this will be the case
 

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That's fine about the oil pressure, as long as it comes back. It's normal for it to drop down, but if it goes below 10-12 psi then you'd have a problem.
To do this in the car, yes you can but you're going to be on your back, wrestling around with everything, and you'll have to raise the engine more than a couple of inches because of the pick up being so low in the pan. All of your coolant hoses, fuel lines, electrical wires, everything will be raised high enough to stretch these things to the max, that is how far you'll raise the engine. You'd have less hassle and curse less if you take it out but yes, you can do it with it in the car.
You drain both plugs, if not you're not completely draining the old oil out and mixing it with fresh oil. Do them both.
Be a good idea to do the mounts now, considering you'll be right there and there'll only be 1 big nut holding them in once you take the engine loose and raise it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
alright great, thanks to all for the input; right now I'm still driving the car and I'm just keeping a close eye on the dipstick...everything seems to be fine except for the few drops of oil I lose on the driveway. I'll let yall know what happens in the next couple of weeks.
 
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