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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1988 Gt Mustang. The specs for the car are as follows...

180 degree thermostat
24# injectors (I think, I know it's one size bigger than stock)
New ignition wiring harness from Painless Wiring.
MSD Blaster2 ignition coil
New TFI module

The problem:
My car has been shutting off when something (I believe it's electrically related) gets hot. The times that I've had it sitting idle, it would typically take around 20-30 minutes for the car to shut off. There's no signs of it about to shut off, it sounds like someone turns the key off. I used to have a MSD 6AL ignition box installed but removed it because initially me and this mechanic friend noticed that there was no reading coming from the box to the coil when we tried to start the car after it quit. We discovered this with the use of a spark tester and circuit tester (the light flash kind). So today I tried to run the car again and it quit again. Would anyone know the solution or perhaps give me something else as a possibility? Would the oxygen sensors overheating have to do with anything? The car can run fine when its cooler out and when there is sufficient airflow in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Everytime someone says it's the TFI module, I've replaced it and I still have problems. Is there anyway of checking the Hall effect sensor without replacing the whole distributor?
 

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It's not the module... it's the pickup inside the distributor. It'll allow cold start up but once it gets hot, that's when it'll act up and leave you stranded and it'll be like you turned the key off. Wait a while and it'll restart. You'll know it's the pickup if the tach is jumping around when you try to start it.
To test it, you'd have to have specialized tests for the pickup. It costs $20 at Auto Zone so it'd be less of a headache to just replace it.
 

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Everytime someone says it's the TFI module, I've replaced it and I still have problems. Is there anyway of checking the Hall effect sensor without replacing the whole distributor?
I mentioned the TFI module, because, just because you buy something new, doesnt mean it works. You mess with these things enough, and youll find this out first hand. The TFI is free to test at any autoparts store. So it wasnt like I said Buy one.

You can test the Hall Effect sensor and the TFI. The hall effect sensor has to be removed, and tested with a DVOM on Ohms, between the two end terminals. A bad one will normally read 15,000Ohms or Higher, A good one, usually 0 ohms.

More times than not, its the Hall effect sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I live in St. Peters MO. I've taken it to Beir Brothers Performance when I arrived in MO and surprisingly they couldn't find the problem.
 
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