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Discussion Starter #1
Ive got a 1988 mustang 2.3 that I had the long block rebuilt. ive had the car running for about four days. it idled realy poor.when i unplug # 1 wire it does not change idle so i checked and recheck the timing. its at 10 btc with no spout. changed plugs wires cap and rotor. restabed the dist. thee or so times. switched injectors around. cleaned the idle air control. and changed o2 sensor. whats left? check the timing belt again? (no tab by the way. used the string method.) maybe check compesion.(that would upset me its a new rebuilt long block.) please help. im just a shadetree guy and no expert on 2.3.
 

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First things welcome to the forum. Do a leakdown test and compression test. That will tell us how good motor is. I assume spark on number 1. Does plug have fuel on it? I had a fuel injector go bad. Acted like a dead plug. When I unplugged it made no difference in idle. Maybe a thought. Maurice
 

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Based on what you've done so far, I'm gonna agree with the above. Check compression across the board, but the big one to watch is #1.

Does it pop or sneeze? Any mechanical noises? excess pressure in the cooling system and/or crankcase? Smoke?

You mentioned changing plug wires, what about the plugs? What does the #1 plug look like? Have you checked to make sure you're actually getting spark to the #1 plug?
 

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OK what is needed For an engine or cylinder to run or work

1 Spark at the right time and with enough voltage??
2 Compression normally above 140 psi
3 Fuel at the right time and proper amount(EFI)

So as posted above Compressiom is the next step and post numbers. Here is a TIP i use. While cranking the engine with the spark eliminated does the engine crank at the same speed?? Does it flare like one cylinder is low on compression. I can listen to an engine cranking and sometimes tell if a cylinder is low or no compression. Its like when a TB breaks. Same type of reaction when cranking? Maybe you have a rocker that jumped off the HLA???? anything is possible. Testing will solve the mistery?? Maybe one rocker is being held OPEN most likely EXHAUST valve. Good luck and post Compression numbers. Peace Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so thats it ill check compresion tomarow and put #s up to let you know. like i said im going to be upset with my motor guy, if its a valve or headgasket, but I have to know. thank you all for your input, this is a great tool for the do it your self amiture mechanic
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the comp. is nearly 0 so mabey an open valve?

well did a comp. test and sure enuogh no pres. on #1. Unbeliveable! So im going to start takeing it apart starting with the valve cover and hoping they screwed something up there and i dont have to pull the head. kinda defaets the point of geting a long block insted of rebuilding it myself!
 

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Absolutely No pressure? Bottom end probably good unless hole in piston. A similiar post was a broke spring and valve dropped open. 2.3 is non interferences so fix and done. No damage done. Maurice
 

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That sucks!! Let us know what you find and we'll go from there.

I'm hoping its valvetrain too Maurice, but he didn't mention it making any noise. I'd think it would clatter a little. Man, if it broke a piston...

Here's where a leakdown tester would come in handy. Heck even a little compressed air and one of those air fittings for a spark plug hole might tell you where the squeeze is escaping.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
is there any posible way its just that far out of time on the belt? to where its not closeing the valves in #1 and for some reson is in 3,4,2. there are two marks on my cam pully one is a dot and the other is a large square on the oposite side.
 

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BIG C and Maurice it may just be a tight VALVE HLA keeping the valve OPEN. Or a stuck valve open??? Sometimes the GUIDES are machined to tight and they keep the valve OPEN. If the rocker came off the cylinder can still produce compression. If its an intake it cannot overcome the back preasure and if its an exhaust which i have a feeling it is. (stuck open) then you will not get blow through into the intake!! (REMEMBER THE CHEVIES WITH FLAT CAMS HOW THEY USED TO POP IN THE INTAKE) Well a busted valve spring can definately do it thats for shure. But my money is on a tight exhaust valve not closing????? Time will tell. That is why i run all engines before delivery. Just me YOU KNOW I AM A BOZO LIKE THAT Peace GUYS.

Ps MAURICE GUESS WHATS BRITISH RACING GREEN????? You got it the MG. Photos on the way tomorrow after it comes out of the BOOTH. The dam thing came out FLAWLESS. JR is the MASTER of the SPRAY GUN. God Bless :bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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Awesome. The MGA do look good in British Racing Green. By the way is it a dual overhead car A? Just curious if so very rare. Now back to our program for tonight. Tom Never thought of stuck valve. Like said I am shade tree mechanic. I bow to your experience.
 

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Awesome. The MGA do look good in British Racing Green. By the way is it a dual overhead car A? Just curious if so very rare. Now back to our program for tonight. Tom Never thought of stuck valve. Like said I am shade tree mechanic. I bow to your experience.
DUDE dont be silly you are ACES buddy. You deal with those big AC compressors all the time. Same thing just DIFFERENT thats all. Photos in AM. I will photo the motor. Mark at VINTAGE AUTO does all the MG stuff around here he is an expert. From what he tells me the cam bearings are different sizes in some engines and have to be reamed OUT for fit??? We had a big discussion on this last week. He tells me no one can do it any more. No tools available except line honing????? Why the different journal diameters ??? And which engine i forgot what he told ME????? God Bless :bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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Yeah Tom a wiped lobe came to mind and then I came to the same realization that it would still have some squeeze if the valves were held closed.

It's a reman engine. There's no telling what hodge-podge of parts and practices were used during assembly. STD piston in a +.010 hole anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well looked at the valves and at least by eye they apear to be working fine. Im geting on the phone now and calling quality engine exchange and geting on them. im not diging any deeper for fear of vioding warenty on long block. I get the impresion evryone seams to agree that somebody up there made a boo-boo. Ill let you know what they say and what the problem was.
 

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well two weeks in to this and ive taken the motor out and brought it back to them. they said wrong ring pack, they said they fixed it so i picked it up put it back in and still ran like crap. did another comp. test still no good. they came out and changed lifters and said it was fixed. put it together again and no good. took it to a shop in town to check my work( timeing and such) my work was good. so they did a comp. test and ask who built my motor, cause its still no good.
 

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I guess time to take it back with the independent test and tell them to fix or money back. If say no. Time to talk to Better Business Bureau and lawyer. If honest they will make right if not good luck you will need it. Maurice
Tom on the MG motors. Some older ones are odd. I remember one that has no rear main seal. The cut a reverse groove in crank instead of rear seal. Moss motors has a cure for that now. My Midget leaks oil I replaced seal and still leaks I gave up. I only drive it about 500 miles a year so I am leaving it alone. Probably not driving enough to keep it wet. I just started it up and move it a little every few weeks. Maurice
 
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