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Having a problem with code 32. 1989 Mustang 2.3. Car will not pass smog because NO emmissions are 3 times the amount California will allow. Gas mileage is around 17 or 18 mpg. Traced it down to the EGR not functioning. Reading code 32 KOER/key on engine running. I know that is typically the EVP sensor but I have tried everything.

Code 32 means that the ECU is reading the EVP at less than .24 volts. Mine is reading at .49 volts at idle (within the rage between .24 and .67) AT the ECU, which elminates a connection or wire issue between the EVP and ECU

Here's what I have tried:
-Replaced (and tested) the EVP--which is the typical cause of code 32 on EEC-IV. It is working properly.
-Replaced (and tested) the EGR vacuum solenoid (working properly when grounded).
-EGR valve itself has been cleaned (it holds vacuum). I even tried using the old EGR valve which holds vacuum too
-Tested the circuit at the EVP signal wire coming off the EVP sensor. At idle, it is reading voltage around .49 / .5, which from what I have read is where it is supposed to be at.
-Replaced the ECU (because the ECU is receiving the correct signal, yet still giving me a code)
-Reset the car multiple times by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes or more

I cannot find too much research about this code, besides everyone saying just replace the EVP. Believe me, if there is a post out there, I have probably already read it. I know that once code 32 is read, the ECU goes in closed loop and will not try to function the EGR, which is why I have reset the battery multipule times

I have read that it will run better without the EGR, but I need it functioning to pass smog

Any ideas? I thought I figured it out when I saw the EVP was sending the correct signal to the ECU but once I replaced the ECU (and dropped $80), I am still getting a code 32. I'm passed due on smog so I really appreciate any ideas.
 

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Having a problem with code 32. 1989 Mustang 2.3. Car will not pass smog because NO emmissions are 3 times the amount California will allow. Gas mileage is around 17 or 18 mpg. Traced it down to the EGR not functioning. Reading code 32 KOER/key on engine running. I know that is typically the EVP sensor but I have tried everything.

Code 32 means that the ECU is reading the EVP at less than .24 volts. Mine is reading at .49 volts at idle (within the rage between .24 and .67) AT the ECU, which elminates a connection or wire issue between the EVP and ECU

Here's what I have tried:
-Replaced (and tested) the EVP--which is the typical cause of code 32 on EEC-IV. It is working properly.
-Replaced (and tested) the EGR vacuum solenoid (working properly when grounded).
-EGR valve itself has been cleaned (it holds vacuum). I even tried using the old EGR valve which holds vacuum too
-Tested the circuit at the EVP signal wire coming off the EVP sensor. At idle, it is reading voltage around .49 / .5, which from what I have read is where it is supposed to be at.
-Replaced the ECU (because the ECU is receiving the correct signal, yet still giving me a code)
-Reset the car multiple times by disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes or more

I cannot find too much research about this code, besides everyone saying just replace the EVP. Believe me, if there is a post out there, I have probably already read it. I know that once code 32 is read, the ECU goes in closed loop and will not try to function the EGR, which is why I have reset the battery multipule times

I have read that it will run better without the EGR, but I need it functioning to pass smog

Any ideas? I thought I figured it out when I saw the EVP was sending the correct signal to the ECU but once I replaced the ECU (and dropped $80), I am still getting a code 32. I'm passed due on smog so I really appreciate any ideas.
is this the only code your getting? i have a 1989 pced manual in paper...pinpoint test DD11 is where code sends me for 2.3 ohc...turbo and hsc are different pinpoint test...
 

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egr valve position sensor evp control vent egrc/egrv pinpoint test DD.

test dd11 service codes 32,33 and 34

note,do not use star tester for this test,,use vom/dvom

1]key off wait 10 sec

2]dvom on 20 volt scale

3]connect dvom negative test lead to STO and positive test lead to battery positive

4]jump STI to signal return

5]perform koeo self test untill the completion of the continous memory codes

6]dvom will indicate less than 1.0 volts

7]depress throttle and release

DOES THE VOLTAGE INCREASE TO GREATER THAN 10.5 VOLTS

IF NO GO TO QC1

if yes go to dd12
 

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You guys are way past me. Only info I can add to this is. Ohm out the wiring. wires can and do break in the harness. Also is the tubing from exhaust to egr and opening into intake manifold clogged with carbon. That is about my only idea's. Maurice
Only info I have. This is page of how to test the Ford sensors.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/sensors.pdf
Section H of a service manual for egr. Rest of manual on same site.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/volumeH/1988/Section 6 - EGR Systems.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys for the quick reply. The only two codes I get are 32 and 77. I'm not worried about 77 because I'm guessing I'm just not goosing the throttle enough? I have taken off the tubing from the manifold to the EGR and it seems to be clean. I can blow through it freely.

hotcobra93: I'm not too familier with some of the acronyms you used, like STO STI QC1 and dd11. Can you elaborate on what those mean? Thanks
 

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How long does it take to reset the code? You can verify self test operation of the EGR valve by putting a vacuum gauge on the EGR vacuum signal in place of the egr valve. If you watch the vacuum gauge you will see it jump when the computer commands the EGR valve open during the KOER test. That will at least verify a certain level of operation of the EGR components. Ignore and clear the EGR valve inop code that will set when you do this. I forget which code that is.

If it is an intermittent problem you can use the min/max alert function on a DVOM to alert you when the signal drops to a new low while you molest the components and wiring. You may also look into loss of 5v reference to the EVP sensor causing the low signal voltage.
 

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Code 32 indicates the EGR valve is not commanded ON. Remove the vacuum hose from the valve and install a vacuum gauge. Run a self test and observe the gauge. The vacuum should be over 5" of vacuum. If not install the gauge before the EGR solenoid to confirm that Vacuum is actually at the valve. If their is no vacuum then the EGR solenoid is not being commanded on. Does the solenoid have a battery on it??? If yes the ECM is not sending out a ground to command the solenoid on. This should be checked first and once you have dun this we can go further. Peace Tom.:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup

If this checks out you need to hook up a break out box to the ecm and or back probe pins 46 & 27. Then apply vacuum to the EGR valve and monitor the voltage. ( you can remove the positioner sensor from the valve and move the plunger in and out if you dont have a mighty vac)Does it climb from .5 to app 4.4 volts ???? If not then check pins 46 & 26. Do you have 5 Volt reference??? If not you have an ECM ISSUE. If yes then move to the EGR positioner sensor. Check for voltage across the pins for 5Volt reference and check pins continuity back to the ECM. This should be enough info for you to correct this issue. Remember the ecm commands the EGR valve on with the positioner sensor and supplying a ground to the EGR solenoid.

Also after that check continuity from pin 52 on the ECM to one side of the EGR solenoid. Is it good??? If so then check for battery on the other side. This is the best i can do as to help you shoot this issue. Good Luck Peace Tom:smartass::smartass::smartass:
 

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Thanks guys for the quick reply. The only two codes I get are 32 and 77. I'm not worried about 77 because I'm guessing I'm just not goosing the throttle enough? I have taken off the tubing from the manifold to the EGR and it seems to be clean. I can blow through it freely.

hotcobra93: I'm not too familier with some of the acronyms you used, like STO STI QC1 and dd11. Can you elaborate on what those mean? Thanks
sure while i wait for that link posted to download on test h...i want to see the rest of that manual..its opening at section 6 for egr...section 16 is eec testing ,,section 17 is the pinpoint test...

sto=self test output circuit in the EEC and MCU system that transmits service codes(pulses) to either a VOM or STAR TESTER

sti=self test input circuit in the EEC and MCU system used to initiate self test

DD= SECTION OF PINPOINT TEST..LIKE A,B,C,D ect....

11 was the step code sent you to start at..

as the H section will be FUEL CONTROL..

your reply from tom shows as DD1 - DD7 for code 31

than the vacuum test start at DD13 which is still code 32
 

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You guys are way past me. Only info I can add to this is. Ohm out the wiring. wires can and do break in the harness. Also is the tubing from exhaust to egr and opening into intake manifold clogged with carbon. That is about my only idea's. Maurice
Only info I have. This is page of how to test the Ford sensors.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/sensors.pdf
Section H of a service manual for egr. Rest of manual on same site.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/volumeH/1988/Section 6 - EGR Systems.pdf
do you have a link that goes to main site?these are pdf files downloaded from main page...
 

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that rothfam link is nice..i was missing a pg or 2..howerver i noticed some differences ..not sure who`s is right of if 1 is newer..

i was missing some pgs in section 16..thats the section on how to get codes and what to do..

my pintest DD11 is 19-39..21-32 in link..says the same except mine say go to QC1..link says Q40..

mine is 1988 CAR/TRUCK SHOP MANUAL..

copyright 1987 ford motor company

FPS-12106-88H

september 1987
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks guys for all of the responses. Hotcobra03 I have gotten up to DD18 on the Pinpoint test and so far everything has checked out OK. I'm kind of stuck right now because I don't have access to a breakout box. Not sure if any auto parts stores around would have one (to rent?)


Tom Renzo, the vacuum solenoid is receiving battery, but no ground. If I manually ground the two wires on the solenoid, the solenoid opens up the vacuum and the EGR opens up and the car begins to run very bad--telling me the solenoid and the EGR valve are good. (I have even tried a different solenoid and EGR valve and I got the same results). This is why I think it has something to do with the EVP signal. No EVP signal would cause the ECU to not ground the solenoid. I guess a breakout box will give me more answers
 

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Thanks guys for all of the responses. Hotcobra03 I have gotten up to DD18 on the Pinpoint test and so far everything has checked out OK. I'm kind of stuck right now because I don't have access to a breakout box. Not sure if any auto parts stores around would have one (to rent?)


Tom Renzo, the vacuum solenoid is receiving battery, but no ground. If I manually ground the two wires on the solenoid, the solenoid opens up the vacuum and the EGR opens up and the car begins to run very bad--telling me the solenoid and the EGR valve are good. (I have even tried a different solenoid and EGR valve and I got the same results). This is why I think it has something to do with the EVP signal. No EVP signal would cause the ECU to not ground the solenoid. I guess a breakout box will give me more answers
OK their you go you just eliminated the entire vacuum system. That is what i wanted to hear. Now you need to find the cause of why the ECM is not commanding the solenoid on?? Did you ground the control lead at the ECM for the EGR SOLENOID. ??? This will confirm continuity of the entire system back to the ECM. This has to be DUN!!! Then the positioner wiring needs to be checked for continuity as well. I gave you the info on the EVP. Did you check it ??? Peace Tom
 

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Once again a simple test. This is not that complicated!!! Back probe pins 46 & 27 with a digital meter. Start the car and with a test light ground the EGR command lead pin 52. Does the voltage climb from .5 to lets say 4.0 Volts. If not you have a wiring issue. Or you are not getting 5 volt reference to the EGR positioner or the positioner is bad. You need to check the pins on the positioner back to the ecm and check it for sweep voltage. Simple test and all these fancy prints and instructions are to confusing at best. The system is quite simple in nature. You just have to figure it out. Peace tom:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup

NOTE!!!!!!!

CODE: 32 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. The ECM is telling you it does not see the sensor. This means the issue is with the positioner or the wiring or the ecm but you changed that out already.. The ECM is not seeing it PLAIN AND SIMPLE. Good luck

NOTE i have actually shimmed the sensor to adjust the static voltage back to the ECM. If you feel the voltage is to low statically you can shim the rod of the sensor to bring the voltage where you want it. But code 32 is low voltage. So basically the sensor or wiring is bad or the rod is to SHORT!!!! Been their on this code many many times.
 

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TRY THIS!!! Shim the sensor to read .8 volts and measure it at the ECM!!!:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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If you set the voltage to .8 the code should change from 32 to 34. If it does then the sensor is working. Then try to set the voltage to .6 and see if the codes go away. Remember this voltage test has to be dun at the ecm 60 pin connector. Good luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So you're saying the pin might be too short and I should elongate it? Any suggestions on how to do that? That does make sense though, that the signal needs to be strengthened (without getting into code 34 territory), I didn't think of that. I will try to do some of this when I get home later tonight.
 
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