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Discussion Starter #1
:waveyNew too this stuff but need help! I got a 89 mustang convertable with a 2.3L 4 plug non-turbo automatic. The car ran great when I got it but then about 4 months of driving it two of the volves burnt on the head so I had the head redone and got it all back together with new plugs, cap, rotor, oil pressure sending unit and water temp. sending unit and set my timming to 10 degrees BTDC with the spout plug pulled out, so my timming is ok and checked all my plug wires by ohming all them out. The car runs great when it is cold or just at idle, it doesn't try to die when at idle just when I go to give it gas after it has wormed up it hesatates picking up speed around the 2000 to 3000 rpm marks and when I am comming to a stop it drags and bogs down like if I had a stick and downshifting it to a lower gear. Thanks
 

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If you just had the heads redone, I would check compression for each of the cylinders. Another thing that might be causing this is a clogged fuel filter.
 

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It not the fuel filter because it's brand new.. When I was counting the codes off I got the numbers 83 89 83 89 114 411 441 in that order with the key on and not running
 

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It's not the fuel filter I don't think because it's brand new.. When I was counting the codes off I got the numbers 83 89 83 89 114 411 441 in that order with the key on and not running. I'm leaning to something throwing the computer off like the TPS or something like that, I don't trust reading the codes because they can tell you one thing and it's something else and I don't think it's the compression because all they did to the head was polish it up and replaced the seals, but I guess I can check the compression as soon as I find a gage to check it with

.:thanks:
 

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Oh, you didn't mention any codes in your 1st post. I wouldn't worry about code 114.

83 is EGR control solenoid circuit failure
and 89 is converter clutch solenoid failure

Both of these can cause hesitation problems so I would look into those two. Might want to send a PM to 89coupe. He'd probably be able to help you further with that...

Welcome to AFM btw :wavey
 

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Sorry didn't get the codes tell after I had posted the first post and :thanks: for helpping out, I will check the EGR control solenoid circuit failure out but not sure what is converter clutch solenoid failure is and how to go about testing it
 

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Did it run good before the valve job???? If yes check the cam timing again. It may be out a tooth???
 

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Could it be still off one tooth even when it lines up dead on the timming marks? I pulled the pully off the crank and used the notch on the block with the stamped mark on the crank to aline my TDC and the cam had a raised plastic peace that had three marks on it comming off the back cover and I lined the raised mark on the cam pully to the center mark off of the cover and the aux pully is lined up with the number one plug just like the guy told me from the Ford Co. He took me in and showed me on his computer the pictures so I would get it right and after that it said to use a timming light and with the spout plug out set the timming any where from 10* to 14* BTDC and not to exceed the 14* so I got it close to 10* or 12* and then put the spout plug back in and now my timming is at about 22* with the plug in could I still be off even when the marks line up perfect every time I turn the crank by hand I can try and see if one tooth would make a differance but I will have to wait till Saturday to do it
 

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Thanks everyone for all the help! If I may ask, what is the best way to check the TPS? I know it has a orange wire, green wire and a black wire comming off of the TPS and the only meter I have is a Fluke digatil. Hope it will work and do I test it with the car running or not running? The Haynes book doesn't show much just how to replace it.:)
 
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