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Is there a vacuum line that is supposed to go from the air diverter valve to the air bypass valve? Or do the valves just remain open? Also the airflow hose to the cats has been cut. Do I need to get a long hose and run that to the cats? Or could I pass emissions with it cut? I just had my complete exhaust done the other day and just found the smog pump assembly & put that in. I had the shop put AP cats in with 2&1/2" flowmasters and turn down pipes at the end.
 

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The smog pump is connected to the bypass valve via a 1/2" hose and then it goes to the diverter valve. The bypass valve and the diverter valve are connected to vacuum. These vacuum signals are controled by the TAD and TAB solenoids.

As far as the Cats are concerned. The diverter valve supplies air to the Cats at startup for about 20sec, i think, then it dumps air to the heads. The only thing you have to do is make sure you can pass the look see test. It may not be working but you could still pass emissions.
 

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Is there a vacuum line that is supposed to go from the air diverter valve to the air bypass valve? Or do the valves just remain open? Also the airflow hose to the cats has been cut. Do I need to get a long hose and run that to the cats? Or could I pass emissions with it cut? I just had my complete exhaust done the other day and just found the smog pump assembly & put that in. I had the shop put AP cats in with 2&1/2" flowmasters and turn down pipes at the end.
Theirs a separate vacuum lines that go to the Air Bypass Valve, the same as theirs a separate vacuum line that goes to the Air Diverter Valve.
No neither valve remains open.

The line to the cat's should be a solid line like this.
 

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I thought it dumped air to the heads first then to the cat when warm... I found this out cause my tab and tad were cracked and it was firing unmetered air into the heads all the time Causing a wicked 41, 91 condition.. Would run great cold though...Haha

You'll also notice in that pic that there is a check valve in it.. Grab one at a boneyard.. It's easier
 
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