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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

So I have a vibration coming from my driveline. The vibrations would increase with engine RPM in both in and out of gear (neutral), and with the clutch disengaged. So I pulled the T5 (world class e6zr-7003 FB casting 13 52-169). I am putting in a new pilot bearing and while I am at it I am replacing the throw out bearing and the retainer shaft as it was pitted. The current shaft is steel which leads me to believe someone has already been in here.

My question: I am getting about 1/16" play side to side (1/8" total). Is this normal side-to-side play? If not, will replacing the front input shaft bearing and cup assist with this as in tighten the play up?

Here is a video of it:
http://youtu.be/4b9W-nYpOLQ

Much appreciated guys.
 

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Yeah, that's looks a bit excessive to me. I just got done rebuilding my t-5 about a month and half ago, and I don't remember it having that much play when I took it out....it had none when I was done rebuilding it, but I set the mainshaft preload are far as I could go with it before it was too much, to help strengthen up the transmission a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah, that's looks a bit excessive to me. I just got done rebuilding my t-5 about a month and half ago, and I don't remember it having that much play when I took it out....it had none when I was done rebuilding it, but I set the mainshaft preload are far as I could go with it before it was too much, to help strengthen up the transmission a little.

Awesome, thanks for the input again! So iv'e been doing some research and found a good video by Autorestomod on Youtube. It appears that I can pull my throwout bearing retainer off, remove the input shaft and pull off/press on a new bearing along with replacing the rollers on the inside of the input shaft . As for the main cluster, it's a matter of pulling off fifth gear and the forks/shifter shafts which will give me access to remove the cluster. From there is removing fifth gear from the cluster and pull off/press on the rear bearing. All said and done, I do not have to finagle with the syncros and gears... just two bearings? What kit did you use and where did you get it from?
 

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I got my kit from ebay, but in hindsight I would have went back and bought OEM stuff. I haven't had any issues as of yet, but I talked to the guy who owns 5speeds.Com and he said to be very wary of eBay parts, since it's hit or miss if you get a quality product. If I were you, I would hit up 5speeds.Com or even just call them and tell them what you need. You won't pay bottom dollar, but you sure as hell won't get a China knock off. Everything he sells is legit, and very competitive in price to other sellers who are selling oem parts.


Sorry to sound like a sales man for him, but had I known about him before ordering my eBay kit, I would have went with him. I did by his steel countershaft bearing retainer, 50$ and adds a little bit of strength. Also use penzoil syncromesh fluid when your done. That what the guy said, and he rebuilds t5s for a living
 

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It probably has lots of miles on it and needs the bearings to make it quiet, but if the bearings are good you can just add a thicker shim in that front steel bearing retainer.

Oh! You did KEEP that original shim and transfer it to the new retainer didn't you?

In the retainer is a race, a shim, and the seal. The seal is usually already in the new retainers, but you have to transfer the race and shim from the old one to the new one.

I've seen many transmissions where the person forgot the shim and even others where they forgot to install the race!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So I got a new input shaft bearing. Just for someone's future reference it is part# LM48510(race) and LM48548 (tapered bearing). Once I removed my retainer sleeve I noticed the shaft for the main cluster was chewed up pretty bad where the input shaft's needle bearings sit(see pic). The needle bearings look good. For now, I'm just going to button up the front end of this B, push in a new pilot bearing and balance my drive shaft as I don't have the means for a new cluster...
 

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Damn, yeah that shaft dont look good. Reminds me of a wiped cam lobe, or lifter from that pitting effect.

I mean, you did say the bearings that go into the "cup" inside the input shaft looked good. It seems like if that happened on its own the bearings would have been trash. So my guess is, someone replaced the bearings before you went in and left that shaft the way it was....

I can tell you this, when I took my trans apart it definitely didn't have a green spring for the slider assembly like yours does. It looks like someone did a half ass rebuild on yours before, which is probably why the input shaft was not shimmed correctly and was wobbling around.

Seriously, before you slap that trans back and call it a day check the lash. Or else it will just end up how it was in a matter of days.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Oh! You did KEEP that original shim and transfer it to the new retainer didn't you?
Thank you for pointing that out! Yes, I kept the shim. I could have gone without it, but I set the depth of the bearing to allow me to use it. Wasn't too sure if it's purpose was both shimming the race AND giving a more machined surface for the race, so I just adjusted.

Seriously, before you slap that trans back and call it a day check the lash. Or else it will just end up how it was in a matter of days.
So I measured the distance from the top of the old race to the bottom of my input shaft with a micrometer (approx 60.22 mm). After I installed my new bearing I pressed it back on to 60.38 and put it back together with the shim. I couldn't turn the shaft so I just kept pressing it down a little at a time, and retrying. I got down to about 60.20 with my shim and it felt pretty good. I could have backed off a little more on the preload, but there is not side to side play. For a weekend car, if I get another 2 years out of the tranny I'm fine. By then I'll have my TKO600 haha.

Here is a vid of it meow :-D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH5gIs4TvP8&list=UUbE7j3d4v8mbSpYx2DqIPXw
 

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Yep, thats about inline with what mine was like when I was done. So far I have about 500 miles on it with no issues....

Now if I could just get my motor straight Id have a half decent car ahahah
 

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So I got a new input shaft bearing. Just for someone's future reference it is part# LM48510(race) and LM48548 (tapered bearing). Once I removed my retainer sleeve I noticed the shaft for the main cluster was chewed up pretty bad where the input shaft's needle bearings sit(see pic). The needle bearings look good. For now, I'm just going to button up the front end of this B, push in a new pilot bearing and balance my drive shaft as I don't have the means for a new cluster...
I had the same problem years back so I pulled
the main shaft and brought it to a tranny guy
I know and he told me that t5's are notorious
for that kind of wear. He said I have two options,
replace the input shaft or he could add material
to the shaft and turn it down to spec. I had him
do the latter and it has been fine since.
 
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