Did you replace the coil?
In case nobody has told you the spout connector "must be unplugged" to adjust your timing or your computer will do anything to try and get it back to normal. The spout connector is right in front of the distributor.. It is the only thing hanging there with a 2 prong connector and plug rammed in to complete the circuit.. Pull this with car off.. Then start and you could try to advance and retard to get it better.. But rent the gun and do it right.. Or you could blow a nice 1/4 hole through a piston
I got a code reader from autozone today. Have not had time to pull codes yet, I have to work 3 12 hour night shifts starting thursday night. But when im off monday im going to get further into it.Of course, it is best to use a timing light, but with the info from your previous posts, I am merely trying to get you back to a known good baseline. You don't need a timing light to set the timing back to stock, since that is what the mark is for that I described above. Once you get the timing to stock, you'll be able to do more diagnosis.
You'll want to pull codes, then kill the memory and start it up again. Let it relearn for about 10 minutes of idling and then pull codes again. Compare the two lists. I expect the O2 sensors to be on the first list, but if you have them working properly, they should not be on the second list.
Once you get to this point, you should have an idea of what you need to investigate further.
Have you ever had the distributor out? Has the car ever run right for you? If I read your first post correctly, it has never run right. I wonder if you are one tooth off on the distributor. I was one tooth off, and had a similar set of symptoms to what you have. If you suspect the distributor has been out, it might be worth your time to find TDC and make sure the rotor is pointing at the Number 1 plug wire.