I have a 1990 Mustang GT and when i start the car the starter stays engaged. If i tap the silinod with something it will stop. This all started when i changed the silinod (with an oe part). I origanally thought i got a bad one so i exchanged it for a new one and that did nothing. Since then i have tried about 6 different silinods from just about everywhere and still the same result. I also tried drilling new holes with new scerws into the fender, since its the ground and that did nothing. So then i repaced both battery cables, the starter cable, the battery and even the starter (with a new silinod) and that also did nothing. I thought the only thing else it could posibly be is the ignition switch, so i finally replaced it, and of course my starter still keeps crankin until i smack the silinod or remove the negitive battery cable. I am out of ideas any help or sugestions would be great.:?:
1990 Mustang GT-starter stays engaged !
Irishguy
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I have a 1990 Mustang GT and when i start the car the starter stays engaged. If i tap the silinod with something it will stop. This all started when i changed the silinod (with an oe part). I origanally thought i got a bad one so i exchanged it for a new one and that did nothing. Since then i have tried about 6 different silinods from just about everywhere and still the same result. I also tried drilling new holes with new scerws into the fender, since its the ground and that did nothing. So then i repaced both battery cables, the starter cable, the battery and even the starter (with a new silinod) and that also did nothing. I thought the only thing else it could posibly be is the ignition switch, so i finally replaced it, and of course my starter still keeps crankin until i smack the silinod or remove the negitive battery cable. I am out of ideas any help or sugestions would be great.:?:
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try the starter switch under the steering wheel. its only about $8 bucks and its really easy to fix. that helped me. ford actually hard a recall on them a while back i believe.
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Have you used a Motorcraft solenoid? Motorcraft (Ford's parts) are known for being higher quality than aftermarket OE parts.
if tapping it kills the starter, it seems like that should be your issue.
Check for voltage at the control wire on it to see if you are getting voltage there when it does it. If there is no voltage there, it should be the solenoid. One other thing to check is that you have the cables installed so there is no way they could short together (battery and starter cables).
My roomate had a starter issue on his car and it took 8 starters to get a good one.
Check for voltage at the control wire, make sure your cables can't be shorting, then replace the solenoid with a Motorcraft one.
if tapping it kills the starter, it seems like that should be your issue.
Check for voltage at the control wire on it to see if you are getting voltage there when it does it. If there is no voltage there, it should be the solenoid. One other thing to check is that you have the cables installed so there is no way they could short together (battery and starter cables).
My roomate had a starter issue on his car and it took 8 starters to get a good one.
Check for voltage at the control wire, make sure your cables can't be shorting, then replace the solenoid with a Motorcraft one.
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If you can tap it and it stops the solenoid is bad.
Yes, I did grind some paint off before i drilled new holes. Starter switch under the stering wheel? I did replace the ignition switch under the stering wheel. And yes i have tried a motorcraft silinod. I do agree that if i tap the silinod and it stops then its proballly the silinod, but i have tried 6 different silinods. Could something else be causeing the contacts in the silinod to stick together? Some type of negitive current?
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i have the same problem....please post when u figure it out...it toasted my starter the other night
add me to the list ,, 4th relay and same problem turn the key starter starts cranking and wont stop till I pull the battery cable, I cant believe no one knows what the heck this is but it will make ya crazy, new ignition switch installed no help this is crazy
here is the ign wiring diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
the red and light green (the wire with the black boot that pushes on the stud at sol) is the 12v from ign sw that engages the sol contacts when it sticks pull this wire off, it should stop cranking if it doesnt there is short at sol, with key not in start position there should be no volts on this wire
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
the red and light green (the wire with the black boot that pushes on the stud at sol) is the 12v from ign sw that engages the sol contacts when it sticks pull this wire off, it should stop cranking if it doesnt there is short at sol, with key not in start position there should be no volts on this wire
OK guys I think I fixed my problem,, drilled new mounting holes cleaned the paint of around the holes for a better ground got the relay bolts good and tight and no more problem :kooky:,, so if you try this and you still have the same problem then your relay must be bad and replaced.. on to the next problem,,lol
Thanks for the wiring diagram clash and good to hear you found your problem 87Hybred.
Now....Switch in column changed, changed silinod 3 times, the ford silinod is now also toast. The car will crank 2 times then sticks closed. Wait 10 minites it will crank 2 more time before sticking.
Voltage regulator changed, not sure why? Starter tested good.
With the key to the on position, lights working on the inside of the car, I have 10.5 voltes at the push on wire at the solinod.
With this wire hooked up the car does not try to start until key is put to the start postion.
The engine is grounded in two places. On the back of the left head and to the intake. Both grounds ohm check good. The engine ohm checked good to the frame. The solinod also ohm checked good to the finder it's bolted to.:frustrated:
I'm thinking of changing switch in the column again and the starter.
Thanks guys
Andy
Now....Switch in column changed, changed silinod 3 times, the ford silinod is now also toast. The car will crank 2 times then sticks closed. Wait 10 minites it will crank 2 more time before sticking.
Voltage regulator changed, not sure why? Starter tested good.
With the key to the on position, lights working on the inside of the car, I have 10.5 voltes at the push on wire at the solinod.
With this wire hooked up the car does not try to start until key is put to the start postion.
The engine is grounded in two places. On the back of the left head and to the intake. Both grounds ohm check good. The engine ohm checked good to the frame. The solinod also ohm checked good to the finder it's bolted to.:frustrated:
I'm thinking of changing switch in the column again and the starter.
Thanks guys
Andy
the push on wire should have 0.0 volts with the key in the ON/RUN position. the only time it should have voltage is with the key in the START position.
simple answer: short to Positive.
now to find out where it is.
i've attached a diagram that's easier for me to read.
the only places i see that could lead to your problem is the ignition switch and the ignition module could also be a crossed wire.
so, disconnect the harness at the ignition module, turn the key to RUN and check for voltage at the starter solenoid. (i started there because it's the easiest)
now to find out where it is.
i've attached a diagram that's easier for me to read.
the only places i see that could lead to your problem is the ignition switch and the ignition module could also be a crossed wire.
so, disconnect the harness at the ignition module, turn the key to RUN and check for voltage at the starter solenoid. (i started there because it's the easiest)
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new starter fixed mine..after replacing selinoid first
I had a similar problem, some of my wires on my solenoid were touching each other, so I moved them a little and tighten up then nuts a little more. I also had a problem with my headlights flickering on my and sometimes shutting off all together, turned out to be that it just needed a little more ground. hooked up a small ground and fixed my problem.
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