Good weather up there. Nice in KY. I would check the battery cable for corrision. It maybe the solinoid on inner fender. I would also have battery checked. It can have a bad cell. And run everything but when need the heavy amps of a starter it won't work. That it reason when a battery is test they put a load tester on it. Maurice
1990 mustang won't start, clicking noise
I have an issue with my starter, I stopped my car for about 7 hrs outdoors in the snow, even though it was only about -5 celsius, and when I got out after all I heard was a few clicks. I got a friend to come boost it thinking it was a dead battery since lights were dim etc. Even with a boost nothing happened. We played around with wires, my friend touched the positive booster cable to my starter, and played with wires some more. Finally my car starts and we drive away. 30 mins later I stop to drop friends off and try to restart my car and the same thing happens. I am sure its not the battery since lights, fan, cd player and power locks still work. I usually get around three clicks, I am told its my starter relay/bad connections. What needs to happen to get it back on the road? Is it an easy enough fix that I don't have to get it towed to my house or will I have to jack it up? There was no notice of problems before, never had an issue starting my car even though I park outdoors overnight.
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My guess is bad battery as well. Like Maurice said, can't put out the amperage to throw the gear into the flywheel and turn it. Do what Maurice said, start with battery and go through other steps if needed.
I have a 1989 ford mustang lx 2.3 hatchback with 2 1 / 2 pipe, flow master muffler, is automatic transmission, I can do to give more strength and some speed? :?:
Rafaelito16,
So that you don't get flamed- you should have started a new thread. It is considered bad forum manners to jump in on a thread with a question not pertaining to the original.
NOW that being said, in the beginning of the 2.3 tech forum there are several "STICKYs" dealing with upgrades to our 4 bangers......why don't you give them a good read through and then if you have particular questions ask away!!!!
TJ
So that you don't get flamed- you should have started a new thread. It is considered bad forum manners to jump in on a thread with a question not pertaining to the original.
NOW that being said, in the beginning of the 2.3 tech forum there are several "STICKYs" dealing with upgrades to our 4 bangers......why don't you give them a good read through and then if you have particular questions ask away!!!!
TJ
thanks guys, while lying in bed I started to think it might also be an issue with the battery or the alternator. It turned last night when I tried to start it again, but it didn't quite kick in. I will get the battery tested soon, hopefully thats the problem.
+1 on Maurice's idea of the bad switch on the inner fender. My '92 did the same thing and I replaced it, then it started like a charm.
this switch is the little round object screwed into the wall of my fender that the positive end of the battery goes straight to right? I got my car home after boosting it, my volt meter reads normal and even after putting a battery charger onto it for a while it still won't start. I want to test the grounds before I do anything big, but if the volt meter in my car reads normal it rules out a battery issue right?
Check voltage while turning the key. Your battery may show 12 volts in a steady state but not put out enough current to turn the starter.
I checked it with a friend and he said it was the solenoid that wasn't allowing the current through properly or something to that effect. If that doesn't work then I will definitely be getting the battery load tested.
if you feel confident enough in your self get a GOOD screwdriver and try jumping those two posts on the solenoid (the switch on the inner fender) and if it starts to crank over then your solenoid is shot and you need a new one.
and take a volt/ohm (DVOM) and measure the voltage at the battery. should be in the neighbor hood of 12.6-13 volts.
and another way (backyard mechanic way) to load test the battery is have your friend or some one to jump start the car again and when you do turn everything on in the car, interior lights, headlights, blower fan, radio etc. then take a measurement from the battery again and let us know what the voltage is then. :bigthumbsup
here is a chart also that may help with your problem. :bigthumbsup
and take a volt/ohm (DVOM) and measure the voltage at the battery. should be in the neighbor hood of 12.6-13 volts.
and another way (backyard mechanic way) to load test the battery is have your friend or some one to jump start the car again and when you do turn everything on in the car, interior lights, headlights, blower fan, radio etc. then take a measurement from the battery again and let us know what the voltage is then. :bigthumbsup
here is a chart also that may help with your problem. :bigthumbsup
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I would remove the cables and inspect them. I would then clean their connecting points really well. Clicking or sometimes even chattering is usually a sign that there just isn't enough current to make the electrical components perform their function.
You have alreay determined the battery is working, and that wiggling the wires/cables has made the car start.
You have alreay determined the battery is working, and that wiggling the wires/cables has made the car start.
had same problem replace solenoid still still making clickin noise replaced starter still clickin noise was using jumper cable coming from F150 took battery out and put in F150 battery started right up! may run lights but not enough juice to turn over 2.3
I agree with navy SVO comments too
Thanks everyone for the responses, I got that issue fixed, it turned out to be the solenoid, after I replaced it everything stopped, but the new solenoid had issues grounding. We remounted it and everything worked great for a week or so. About 5 mins ago (I have already ran it today) I started my car and it wouldn't stop turning over. I turned off the key, still turned over trying to start, put it in gear trying to stall it, still trying to turn over. I rushed into the garage and removed the negative battery cable as quick as I could, the contact point is hot and sparked as I removed it. Its so hot that the screw is connected to the cable now. I have some kind of short, but I have no idea where.
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