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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I need some help a my rebuilt, really hope for some input on what would make this a solid little motor, so anyway here is what i have a 91 short block that I picked up on the cheap-- freshly rebuilt with new rods, crank and pistons (hypereutectic)
so the plan is to drop this in my 67 , looking to make around 350 hp , this is not going to the track and will never see slicks ,just a nice cruiser for the weekends and a rice killer! :gringreen
so here is my parts list: anything that will be better plz tell me
AFR 165’s --maybe 185’s?
Weiand stealth dual intake or a Victor Jr
Road demon Jr. 625 (maybe to small?)
Comp cams 1.7:1 rockers (aluminum adj)
Cam? Not sure about this one --read the e303 is good-- plz remember streetable, but something that says, “ohh that’s not-stock”
I have a set of Hedman long tube ceramic headers ready to go
2.5" magnaflow exhaust system
All the small stuff like Fel-pro gaskets and ARP bolts too
So any help would be great , I will take picks of this as I go and hope to help the next guy in repayment so they can learn from my mistakes! :nono:
oh here is what I have behind it
TCI c4 “streetfighter” ready to bolt up to it (good up to 450hp)
and have my rear end is set up with 3.55 gears and Trac-Lok in a 8”
thanks everyone ,looking forward to this built
 

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For a standard stroke 302 motor, go with the 165's. 185's are a bit too much for a street driven 302ci...

Now if it's stroked (331, 347) then 185's all the way. :bigthumbsup

And go with 3.73 rear end gears. :D
 

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everything sounds good the 165s are better like stated above for your purpose. As for the rear end id leave it, the closest youll get to 3.73s with an 8 inch is 3.80 and the 3.55s are perfect for a street driven automatic i believe
 

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im gonna have to say that while its still opened up, change the pistons to forged. i know you prob wont run NOS, but it would be peace of mind. you could prob sell them on ebay to help pay for the new ones.

i would stay away from the "alphabet cams" and get an off the shelf from comp cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
im gonna have to say that while its still opened up, change the pistons to forged. i know you prob wont run NOS, but it would be peace of mind. you could prob sell them on ebay to help pay for the new ones.

i would stay away from the "alphabet cams" and get an off the shelf from comp cams.

so are there any problems with hypers? , i have read good things about them , did you have a bad experience with them
and i was looking at this cam , only thing i dont like is about the 5 speed ,see any problems with that ?
 

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Those pistons are ok, they're just not the best you could get.

You asking about the E cam in relation to a 5 speed? It'll work fine with it. Is that the question you had?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
no it was saying on the comp cam site that it worked best with a 5 speed and i will be running a c4 3 speed
but it looks like alot of the comp cams are for EFI or can i go with a flat tapped? :headscratch: , maybe this one is better?
cam specs
 

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i was just recomending the forge pistons because i wish i would have changed while my engine was still on the stand but theres nothing wrong with the hyperueretic.

i would call comp cams and tell them what your running and they can give you some suggestions.
 

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Hey guys I need some help a my rebuilt, really hope for some input on what would make this a solid little motor, so anyway here is what i have a 91 short block that I picked up on the cheap-- freshly rebuilt with new rods, crank and pistons (hypereutectic)
so the plan is to drop this in my 67 ,
With an automatic you are OK so long as you use the correct flywheel/flexplate. A stick would be another story. I had to weld a pipe to my late model block for the clutch linkage. It worked fine.


looking to make around 350 hp , this is not going to the track and will never see slicks ,just a nice cruiser for the weekends and a rice killer! :gringreen
The 8 inch is a notoriously weak rear end. With minimal tire spinning you should be OK, but it will come apart very easy. IMO it is much weaker than the 7.5 inch Fox rear ends. Good luck on it lasting if you really make 350 HP.

so here is my parts list: anything that will be better plz tell me
AFR 165’s --maybe 185’s?
Weiand stealth dual intake or a Victor Jr
Road demon Jr. 625 (maybe to small?)
Comp cams 1.7:1 rockers (aluminum adj)
Cam? Not sure about this one --read the e303 is good-- plz remember streetable, but something that says, “ohh that’s not-stock”
There is very little difference in a mild cam between the Motorsport cams and a aftermarket. If you were out for maximum power then a Comp Cams street roller would be great. I ran one in my 66 GT (I pulled the K code 289 and subbed a late model motor to save the original matching motor). I used a big lift high duration street roller.

For my latest project I used the F Motorsport cam because:

1.) A place I do consulting engineering for that makes cylinder heads dynoed a bunch of engines, and they said the F cam was as good as anything for street strip. Since I'm friends with the owner and they sell all kinds of cams, I doubt they fibbed. I used what they told me to use for a high performance street and occasonal strip motor.

2.) The ramp rate in the Motorsport cams is slow enough and shaped correctly to not hammer the hell out of valve train components. I used to run a lot of comp cams street/strip grinds, but things did not have a long life. The Motorsport cams will have great component life.


oh here is what I have behind it
TCI c4 “streetfighter” ready to bolt up to it (good up to 450hp)
and have my rear end is set up with 3.55 gears and Trac-Lok in a 8”
thanks everyone ,looking forward to this built
Based on my experience with 8" rear ends, I would not invest a great deal of time or money in one. You might be OK with an automatic at 200 HP, but I doubt it will last very long if you make much over 250 - 300 HP.

I've had several Mustangs and two Fairlane's with 8" rear ends and I blew about half of them out with stock engines. Mostly it has been spider gears. Ford used the 9" in my K code for a good reason, even though the K code (rated at 271 HP) was really about 200 HP or less at the wheels.

I can't stress enough how I mistrust the 8 inch. My dad whipped my craker a$$ when I blew the rear end in his 6 cylinder Fairlane while racing a buddies 6 cylinder 57 Chevy. Ouch, still hurts after 45 years.

The rest of your stuff sounds good.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the honest input "old man" , opps that didn't sound right :nogrinner
i was reading up on the f 303 last night the only thing i didnt care for was the hi stall converter it wants for the automatic ,sounds great if i was running a 5 speed , but then again what is a "HI" stall 2500+ ??
i dont wont to have to launch from every red light , well then again that sounds like fun too! no really i'm just looking for a little loop and good on the street , has for as the rear end goes sounds like the 8"
might not last to long ,but everything i have looked at was priced nuts for the 9" for the 67 , did read up a the explorer swap ,maybe thats an option , but the pumpkin is offset a little on that rear end so it take mods to get it right , thanks again everyone for the inputs -keepem coming
i'm going to pull the old motor /tranny this weekend , i'll get some pics of my busted knuckles and mess for ya :blink:
 

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I forgot what 9" rear end fits the early Mustang. I think maybe the the Futura or the early LTD with a V8? One of them used a 9" that drops right in. A truck would have a taller gear ratio and a better posi unit plus 31 spline axles so that might be a cheaper way to get a posi chunk with a better gear ratio, even if you have to buy axles. You might ask around and look now for something.

One thing to remember with cams and power, most of the real power comes from moving the torque up higher in the RPM range. That means you need a higher stall converter with just about any cam that is going to add significant power.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i finally got some goodies in for the build and got busy with the cam
i went with a comp cams # xe 266-hr
no major problems with the install , i changed out the cam bearings and had the crank checked out ,it needed to be machined down .10 /.10
the cam was a kit that had the lifters and timing chain , its got a nice duration and think will be a sound nice (fingers crossed)
the milodon pan also came in -- man i really like the look of this pan
this is my 1st windage tray install ,but it look pretty straight forward
and i went with a edelbrock air gap # 7521
ohh and got the 1st coat of ford blue on :bigthumbsup
i'm still looking at the AFR's 165 ,but the TFS heads look like a nice pic too , but they need longer push rods , thanks for the help everyone!
here are some new pics
 

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Discussion Starter #14
hey guys i went to open my fel pro gasket set to check it out and ran cross what i think is 2 harmonic balance seals for the timing cover
is there any difference in these? and what is the best method to install it , i was thinking about a large socket and tap it in -bad idea? :headscratch:
 

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You might find a description on the box, there was probably a change one year and it should say what years each seal is for. The tap in method sounds fine, I usually put a thin bead of silicone in the metal dip that the seal goes into just to make sure no oil seaps around it.
I'll be watching your build up, my engine is very similar but old school, sure would be nice to see what numbers (dyno and 1/4mi.) each engine puts down for a comparison. I've got my 289 stroked to 333, AFR 165's, CC XE262 (hyd. non roller), Weiand Stealth, Demon 625Jr., roller rockers, cast internals, AOD, 9" 3.50:1, MAC LT headers, 2.5" exh., Canton 7qt. pan. I painted everything Ford blue (int., block, AFR's)
Please keep updating, mine's still sitting on the engine stand while I repaint/repair the engine bay.
Jon
 

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Dont worry about the 8 inch unless your running slicks and going to the track every weekend. Your setup sounds great. A demon 625 is plenty of carb for a non stroked small block.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
sorry for the delay guys i had to go to work last week or at least show my face! so when i got back at it i got started on the oil pump/ windage tray and pan, the milodon pans or very nice if you ever need to upgrade they are the ones to get , the studs on the mains torqued down no problem but the one on the top of the studs are a real in the ass because the holes on the tray are just big enough for the bolts --what the f!
i also did some powder coating or at least tried too! i went with a wet black on the manifold and what eastwood company calls a " one step chrome" on the water pump and timing cover, well needless to say it not close to chrome , more like a wet gray !--opps but not that bad i guess the good thing is that it will never change colors on me :nogrinner,
so the next step is the fuel pump , and the harmonic balancer
i did put some never seize on the crank shaft and the balancer ,but man this thing wont more much more than haft way ,or there any tricks to getting it on , i'm sure you are not suppost to hit very hard , is there a special tool for this??
 

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sorry for the delay guys i had to go to work last week or at least show my face! so when i got back at it i got started on the oil pump/ windage tray and pan, the milodon pans or very nice if you ever need to upgrade they are the ones to get , the studs on the mains torqued down no problem but the one on the top of the studs are a real in the ass because the holes on the tray are just big enough for the bolts --what the f!
i also did some powder coating or at least tried too! i went with a wet black on the manifold and what eastwood company calls a " one step chrome" on the water pump and timing cover, well needless to say it not close to chrome , more like a wet gray !--opps but not that bad i guess the good thing is that it will never change colors on me :nogrinner,
so the next step is the fuel pump , and the harmonic balancer
i did put some never seize on the crank shaft and the balancer ,but man this thing wont more much more than haft way ,or there any tricks to getting it on , i'm sure you are not suppost to hit very hard , is there a special tool for this??

What balancer do you have?
The FMS balancer I put on my 289 said in the instructions to boil it for 15 minutes and put on. Well.... 100% easier that way. It went on about 90% by hand, and using a 2x4 and rubber malet drove it home. Also in the instructions BTW. :) Let me tell you... that balancer was hot for at least 45 minutes after I put it on. No doubt it is on tight now!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok i got back from offshore and got started again , man i have so much left to finish! , so anyway i powder coated the pulleys the same wet back has the manifold and cut the a/c bracket to just fit the compressor since i wont need the power steering side of it i think it came out pretty well , i picked up the a/c compressor from pull a part from a F-150 that had just came in 2 days ago , for 40 bucks it looks brand new , just hope it works
i also mounted the fuel pump and waiting for the 1 wire
alternator from power-master , now i just need to measure for the belt once it get here , use a string?
i went with Edelbrock performer heads #60379 too , read alot of good things , just hope i made the right choice
i did see on the block the i will need to put in a plug in the old dipstick hole , then i found another hole that is threaded
between the #3 and #4 piston (pic) anybody know what this was for?:headscratch:
 

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I think that's just a mounting hole for a grounding cable, etc. just depends on what was on the '91 it came out of. Stick a thin screwdrive in it to see how deep it is so you know how short a bolt you can use.
Jon
 
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