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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been :frustrated: with my car. The TFI took a crap. I changed that over and put in a new button, then the dumb thing wouldn't start. So I checked the plugs and they were fouled. I put in new plugs. Then still no start. Checked the fuel pressure, 0 pressure at the schrader valve. Checked the filter it wasn't all that bad, but I got a new one, before I put the new one on I checked the fuel pump, of course it was bad. Put in a new fuel pump and then checked it and it is working. I started the car and it ran and I was happy. So it ran for about 3 minutes starting running really rough and died. Started it back up, it ran and died. Rechecked the timing. I have the motor timed to 10* BTDC. I have spark after checking with an old plug. It def has tons of air, I have a new filter and I've even tried starting it w/o the air box on the MAF. Gas is at the rail now. What am I missing?? My car is completely bone stock, except the fuel pump which is a 255 lph BBK since I plan on it not being bone stock for long...
 

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Turn the key on and check for voltage at the injectors red wire. Should be battery voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip. I checked injectors and have 11V on the red wire. Also checked TPS and I have .89ish volts there. My battery is a little low right now from all the attempted starts which I think is going to account for the lower voltage. Also checked the relays and and they are clicking when I turn the ignition on. Any other ideas?
 

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Spray some starting fluid down the throttle body and see if it will start or try to start then.
 

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i just had this happen to my 5.0L. take the EEC test port and push a piece of wire into the white wire with a green stripe on it and touch it to any ground you should hear the injectors firing. if so bolt it to a ground and try to start the car. mine works fine now but i had to run that ground to a toggle switch on the dash so now i have to flick the switch everytime i want to drive it but hey it works...probably something wrong with the relay from the computer....its just a way to by-pass it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
okay I'm going to try that. I discovered that I had zero spark on #4 to #8 cylinders, so I changed the cap, rotor, and new wires and now I have TONS of spark and no start still? Leading me to gas? So it has a new fuel pump so I'm going to try a regulator now I guess and see what happens with that. Any ideas with that?
 

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okay I'm going to try that. I discovered that I had zero spark on #4 to #8 cylinders, so I changed the cap, rotor, and new wires and now I have TONS of spark and no start still? Leading me to gas? So it has a new fuel pump so I'm going to try a regulator now I guess and see what happens with that. Any ideas with that?
See if you have fuel at the valve on the fuel rail, make sure the pump is turning on, check the inertia switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah there is fuel at the rail and the pump is turning on and the switch is not tripped, I was wondering if there was enough pressure. I took out the #5 plug and there is a faint smell of gas but not alot, not as much as on the #1 plug. That why I wasn't sure about the regulator or not and I figured since it's the original one on the car maybe it could use a change. I've checked all the wires for voltage and they are all within factory specs. So I am thinking I'm left with gas somewhere at the motor since it pours out of the fuel pump if you check it there. Maybe the injectors are bad too?
 

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Use a test light and a paper clip, hook the paper clip to the alligator clip, and insert both in the number on injector electrical connector. Then crank engine and see if the test light blinks while cranking. Key needs to be on
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah it's been out, but it's back in and timed correct or at least #1 at compression to 0* on the harmonic balancer
 

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Rotate the dizzy clockwise( to the left) and then try and start it. Its possible its to far retard.:bigthumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #14
still nothing, but I did check the fuel pressure and finally since I had it depressurized it has about 37lbs at the valve. Next on my list is the ECM or maybe the relay. If I'm thinking correct the red wire will pulse 12V or battery while attempting to start the car right?
 

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To check the injector pulse, just use the test light and paper clip method I described in my earlier post. It should be flashing or blinking while cranking.

You may also wanna try to clean the salt and pepper connectors behind the intake manifold. Just clean them and maybe try and spread the male terminal side of the connetor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, I wrote that and then read that post. So the light flashes. So I decided to start back at the beginning of the problem which was a bad TFI, I found these testing instructions for it...

Terminals to jumpResistance (OHMS) D1 to H112.8K D1 to H217.4K D1 to H31000 D1 to H411.5K D1 to H54.2K D1 to H60.0K D2 to H11.2K D2 to H25.8K D2 to H312.6K D2 to H4100 D2 to H515.8K D2 to H611.6K D3 to H1100 D3 to H24.7K D3 to H313.7K D3 to H41200 D3 to H516.9K D3 to H612.7K D1 to D2 11.5K D1 to D312.6K D2 to D31100 D1 to BASE0.0K D2 to BASE12K D3 to BASE13.1K

So I checked it and everything was good until I got to D1, D2, and D3 to Base...Everything shows 0, so I'm guessing a bad TFI, funny a new one is bad, but oh well. Going to Ford tomorrow for a Motorcraft one and replace it and see what happens. Would have never thought that...
 

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Those go to the PIP sensor. Those are the TOP three prongs right? An easy check is to loosen the dizzy, turn key to On( not running). Then rotate dizzy back and forth( left to right) and see if you hear the injectors click and the fuel pump prime.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah the top three, I'll stick it back in tomorrow morning and turn it around and see if anything happens. If nothing happens then I'll get a new one. Should I go ahead and replace the PIP too or if nothing happens does that mean the PIP is bad too?
 

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I would replace both, just for piece of mind. The PIP signal, tells the ECM when and what injector to fire. If the signal is not making it to the ECM, then you won't get a injector pulse.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I I replaced the TFI today and now when I turn the dizzy you can hear the fuel pump and then the injectors click so now that part is good, but I still have no start. I put a pressure gauge on it and I get 37 lbs at the valve, but it takes a LONG time to get that much pressure, like 10-15 on off's to pump it up to 37 lbs, but it will hold it there with the key off, but when you try to start the car the pressure goes down and doesnt replenish until you turn the key on and off to pump it back up. So a few other guys are thinking either pressure regulator or possibly the injectors are just bad or ECM, which I've already tested all 3 sensors and they all have 5v to them at the reference wires and everything else was to spec. I was going to change the PIP but I have no idea how to get it off, I can get the vane off the top and then take the screws out of the PIP, but I can't figure out how to get the metal plate that the vane screws into off to get the rest of it out. My buddies friend wants to pull the intake off and unbolt the fuel rail and pull the injectors out and see if they are spraying fuel. I'm at a loss as I've pretty much gone past my knowledge now.
 
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