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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy folks. Need a little help. Converting my 92 GT from AOD to T5. Sourced donor parts out of an 86. Bought the King Cobra clutch kit from late model resto. Also purchased the clutch cable, aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster from same source. Everything went in smooth and great. I noticed that the clutch fork was contacting the pressure plate with a little less than an inch before it contacts the front of the bell house opening. Being a neophyte, I noted it but continued the install. Once the cable was in, I had to max out the threads on the cable (all the way to the top of the threads) and max out the firewall adjuster to take the slack out. The pedal will go about half way down before the arm contacts the bellhousing and it is not actuating the clutch. Any ideas? Do I need to replace the fork and pivot stud? Adjust the pivot? Just to clarify, loosening the cable will not help. The fork arm is hitting the front of the bellhousing opening. Thanks for the advise, you guys always rock.
 

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if the fork is too far forward i would think you need to adjust the pivot point IN some to move the fork to the rear of the bell housing. then re adjust your cable to that cause it won't have enough slack at that point. and can you get us pics?
 

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The stock pivot stud for that bell housing is not adjustable.
Are you sure the throwout bearing is installed correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am going to recheck the tob, but I'm reasonably confident it is in right. After a conversation with a friend this morning, I have another question. When I torqued the pressure plate down, should the fingers have compressed in towards the flywheel or out towards the trans. When I torqued it down the fingers compress towards the flywheel. My friend believes that the fingers should have moved towards the trans. If this is the case it would account for the difference in the stroke of the clutch fork. thoughts?
 
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no the fingers always flex inwards towards the flywheel. so when the pedal is depressed the friction surface of the pressure plate flexes outwards disengaging the clutch.
 

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ok if the pivot point isn't adjustable then the TOB is in wrong i'm thinking. it sounds like it could be completely on the flywheel side of the fork.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have ripped everything back out of the car and can find no reason or problem with the clutch, tob, or pressure plate. I have the correct bell housing and fork. For giggles, I tried unscrewing the pivot stud a bit to make it longer and move the fork fulcrum closer to the pressure plate. I moved it about a half inch closer to the pressure plate and now the clutch operates. The thing I can't figure out is why the pivot stud is so short. Because I am converting over I don't have anything to reference and I can't find any data on what length the stud should be. I am running the SVO Mongoose clutch from Late Model Restoration. With a billet quadrant and a firewall adjuster. This is no way a cable problem. The only resolution is extending the pivot stud. I hesitate to put a longer adjustable stud in before I understand why the parts I have are not working correctly. Ideas......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
IMAG0048.jpg
Shows throwout bearing

IMAG0050.jpg
Shows point at which clutch fork engages pressure plate, almost maxed out against bell housing

IMAG0052.jpg
fork engagement point to pressure plate

IMAG0049.jpg
TOB in fork

IMAG0051.jpg
side of bell housing.


These pics were all BEFORE I extended the pivot stud. Making the stud longer moved the clutch fork back towards the rear of the car (right side of picture) and allowed operation of clutch. I just need to figure out WHY I am having this issue before I stick a longer stud in it.
 

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From what I've observed, the 5.0 and 3.8 studs are about 2 inches tall to the top of ths ball, and have a split lock washer under them. I just picked one up that I have laying around and measured it...

The 4.6 seem to be the same part, but don't have the washer.

I noticed that a 2003 T-56 stud is considerably shorter. Do you know you have the right stud?

What is the casting number on the bell housing and the number stamped into the fork?

Pictures of these may help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
IMAG0060.jpg

IMAG0061.jpg

IMAG0062.jpg

IMAG0063.jpg

IMAG0064.jpg

IMAG0065.jpg

IMAG0066.jpg

Based on these pics, I'm thinking someone "engineered" this pivot stud to shorten it for some reason. These would explain all of my problems and it makes a simple fix with a new pivot stud. Thoughts.....
 

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Looks like you figured it out!

That is an 86-93 bell housing for sure.

Get a new stud. Ford Parts calls it a "bolt"!
Be sure to put a split ring lock washer under it.
Every one I have seen on that bell housing had one.

You might even want a new fork too.
I can't tell from the pictures.
There are a couple of wear points on the fork pivot points to inspect. Oh, use a little grease on those points and on the ball pivot!

Glad you found it!
 
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