1992 Mustang 5.0 wont rev past 3500rpm under load

I just put the MSD Blaster coil on. Still does the same thing. It revved up to 4000rpm before it warmed up. It warmed up and started doing it again. Got it back in the garage and it just revs away. Would it have anything to do with it going into open loop operation on the fuel system? Coolant temp sensor maybe? I don't have alot of money to spend right now and am trying not to have to take it to a mechanic. Does anyone know a good(honest) place to take it around Springfield, Mo. if I have too?

Sorry for the late reply I haven't been on in awhile. No problem with the exhaust system. It has long tubes, offroad h-pipe, Flowmasters & 3" exhaust.(I got this car from a kid who worked all summer to have a speed shop put a Trick Flow intake, heads & cam kit in it, and the exhaust system. As he tells it, he drove it once after it was built and wrecked it). It's back together but has ran like this since I've had it. How to tell if the fuel pump isn't flowing enough volume? I don't know what the timing is set at, and how can I tell if it's advancing or not?

I'm not sure of the age of the rotor, cap, plugs, or wires. I have all of the receipts from the kid, and none of them show rotor, cap, plugs or wires, so I'm not sure how old they are. The plugs look good. The electrodes are flat, not much wear if any. The wires look relitively new too. I know looks can be decieving. Is there a way to check the wires? When I got the car the front end was 6-7 inches to the left and not all there. So I'm not sure where to look for grounding problems.

eds92 said:

I'm not sure of the age of the rotor, cap, plugs, or wires. I have all of the receipts from the kid, and none of them show rotor, cap, plugs or wires, so I'm not sure how old they are. The plugs look good. The electrodes are flat, not much wear if any. The wires look relitively new too. I know looks can be decieving. Is there a way to check the wires? When I got the car the front end was 6-7 inches to the left and not all there. So I'm not sure where to look for grounding problems.

Click to expand...

Buy a timing light.....

And replace everything shown in RED

I haven't replaced anything yet, as money is tight. I did reset the TPS to .98v, so at least it idles better. It idles at 1000rpm, I can't get it to idle lower. If I set the idle lower, it just surges and quits. I checked the codes as I saw how to in another thread, they are as follows.

KOEO 85-96 85 is not applicable to my car according to the list I found and 96 is-"fuel pump: open, bad ground or always on".

KOER 94-44 both are "air system inoperable".
I did remove the smog pump and canister and plugged the vacuum line. Would any of these codes cause my problems?

I bought a timing light, set the timing to 12btc and it is advancing. It doesn't have as much power as it did, although the rev threshold is a little higher but it starts popping and backfiring again at around 4000 and worsens the hotter it gets. I've been reading threads for days. So many people have similar problems and so many suggestion have me confused. I've noticed lately that it doesn't start right up as it used to. The fuel pump primes, I turn the the key and it'll crank over but not start. I turn the key off and try again and it starts right up. I'm gonna check the wires today. The way I understand it is as long as there's less than 7000ohms of resitance per foot the wire is ok. Could it be the ignition module? on the dist?:?: