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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Have a frustrating problem with my 93 2.3 N/A auto. Seems to work fine when cold. Idles at first at about 1000, then slowly drops to 750 as it heats up, and bounces plus or minus 50. When the car gets hot and I come to a stoplight, it hesitates, sputters, and almost dies unless I jam on the gas after putting it in neutral. It has been doing this intermittently since I got the car 2 months ago, but it is getting worse. Seems to work fine when it is cool out, but unfortunately it’s July and I’m in Vegas, so there isn’t many times it is cool out. Here is the list of the things I have replaced in the past two months (doing all work myself):
Fuel pump, filter, gas cap, and IRCM (fuel relay)
Plugs, wires, and both coils
Oxygen sensor, EGR valve, IAC valve
PCV valve and a few different vacuum lines
New air filter and cleaned the MAF sensor
I have determined there is no vacuum leak, and the timing is spot on. I got one of those $30 code readers and here is what I got:
Three days ago I got a KOEO 334 code, so I replaced the EGR valve. I then allowed the computer to reset.
Ran codes yesterday
KOEO Codes: 111 and then a 153
KOER Codes: 538, 536
Not sure about these. I’m getting frustrated and would really appreciate any help. Thanks.
 

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Find out what the codes are. Fix the problem ???? Profit
 

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Odd not 153 codes.
The other 2 required you to bump the throttle and brake when instructed. You didn't or there is a problem. Codes are here.
Ford Fuel Injection » 3 Digit Self-test Codes 111-171
I would check and clean with carb/fuel injector cleaner the IAC [idle air control] At top of upper intake near throttle body. It maybe leaking thru or stuck partially open. Gets hot how hot? I assume electric fan coming on. Turn on AC fan or let engine get run. Should run if not check it out. Maurice
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Maurice,

Sorry, by hot I just meant up to normal operating temperature. No overheating problems, and I have the electric fan on a manual switch. I replaced the IAC valve, as well as the EGR value.
Would it be possible that the Ignition Control Module is bad? Would it not throw a code, and only act up when getting warmer? Was also wondering if it could be the TPS, I just figured it would throw codes if it was.
Thanks for the input.
 

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Can you run codes again. I can't find a 153 listed even in my book at home. Also may show up now. The ignition module and coil packs do go bad. Does the tach go to 1/2 what suppose to be? If decide to change ignition module make sure to use heat absorbing paste on back of it and install all 4 screws. Don't use dielectric grease not the same. Maurice
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Replaced the Ignition Control Module today. Didn't help. Wouldn't even start when sitting in the sun. Fired up after sun went down.
Coil packs were replaced. Only thing left I haven't replaced is the TPS.
Hoping that the Cats aren't clogged.
RPMs are fine when just revving it - drops when warm and at idle, park or in gear.
I will run codes again tomorrow and get back to you.
Thanks again.
 

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I'm Having about the same problem.mine sputters,ping,and stalls out on sunny days (its been 106 here in kansas). I'm thinking maybe cats or crank pos sensor getting hot on mine maybe. I donno. let me know if you find out any thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is just fun.
Replaced the TPS today. As soon as I drove off to test it out, the CEL came on, solid, not flashing.
Did codes, only thing was for 332. Dang EGR that I just replaced a week ago. Started smelling nasty fumes after I replaced it. Turns out its faulty. Going to go have a chat with the Autozone people. :nono:
In my attempt to whip this car into shape, I have noticed the crap job the previous owner did. The coolant bottle is missing. Hose coming out of the radiator is cut 2 in long and has a spark plug stuck in it. Most all connectors are broken. Looks as though engine has been pulled before and they didn't care to properly take off the connectors. Also, checked auto trans fluid for first time. Its pitch black. Doesn't smelled burnt though, and it has shifted smoothly since I got it. Will need to change it out, unless others feel I should leave it?
Thanks for any input.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so with TPS replaced and another new EGR in the car is working better. I think it was just the TPS. Still surprised it didn't throw any codes.
When at idle in park, the volt meter will literally drop a notch just by me applying the brakes. Is this normal for this little 65 amp alt or is it going bad? Wanting to do the 3g upgrade soon.
Need to do trans fluid and motor mounts as well.
Thanks all.
 
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