Ford Mustang Forum banner
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
I'll give you a full walk-through from beginning to end.

1. Remove drive belts and set the #1 cylinder to TDC (notch in crank pulley aligns with "TDC" on timing cover)
2. Remove water pump pulley.
3. Remove crankshaft pulley
4. Remove plastic timing belt cover
5. Secure the camshaft pulley and auxillary shaft pullies so they do not move (if they do, this will cause some headaches.). If you can't secure them, put a paint mark on the little triangle cast into the pulley and put a paint mark on the inner timing cover right in line with it.
6. Release tension on the timing belt. (There is a bolt you loosen in the tensioner slot, then use some sort of prybar to pry the tensioner back. Then retighten the bolt in the slot to hold the tensioner back.
7. Remove timing belt CAREFULLY so you don't move your pullies.
8. Install new timing belt again being very careful not to move the pullies.
9. Loosen bolt in tensioner slot and allow tensioner to put full tension on the belt. Retighten the bolt.
10. Install timing cover, crankshaft pulley, water pump pulley, and drivebelts. When installing the crankshaft pulley, wrap the bolt threads in teflon tape and tighten to 110-125 ftlbs.
11. Start the car and make sure all is well.
 
Hub? Don't understand you there....as Jerry Maguire said..help me-help you.

Do you meen the belt pulley? It won't come off or...what?

When I got the bolt out of the crank, the pulley was stuck on the crank snout. I was told "it should just pull off". Well, I got a gear puller and it only need a turn or so and it came right off. I cleaned it and the mating surface of the crank snout with some emory cloth and moved on.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
well when i put my timing belt back on the cams were 180 degrees off tried to fire it ran like complete crap so i was worried that my motor was an interference motor but i check the compression in the cylinders and 1 and 2 were at 127 psi 3 was at 125 and 4 was at 150 i know they are different but i wasnt expecting this by the way i did this after fixing timing belt to the right time it runs better than it did before new timing belt but the old one was off by 10 degrees but does the compression sound good or bad.
oh by the way the motors were non interference motors.
 
ok i got the pully off but the part the pully connects to isnt coming off i cant get the belt off without removing it i think.

What did you use to get the pully off? It moves to freely or does it matter? Is it normal, left to loosen? Do I need an impact gun or something?
 
heres what you do if you dont have a impact gun take a breaker bar and hook it to the bolt then crank the car that is the best way to break the bolt loose.

So put the belt back on and try to start it with the breaker bar on it? Will it be ok?
 
whats so funny? do you have a better idea?

No s**t. I don't trust myself to do it that way. So I put the belt back on and tightened it up. I can't figure out whats wrong with my junk.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts