Nah man, I had the same problem, you gotta drop the pan. Get some brake parts cleaner and clean the hell outta the mating surfaces. After that get yourself a one piece rubber gasket from Fel-Pro, and get some Ultra Blue RTV. Clean everything off after you drop the pan, and then silicone the hell out of where your leak was. Worked great for mine.

Just be very careful not to get any silicone INSIDE the pan or engine.

When you put the pan back on, try this, it's worked for me for
many years with never a leak.

Use carb spray to clean the bolt holes and the bolts thoroughly
so there's no oil left.

If you have comp air, blow the holes out & dry them. If not,
just let them air dry till they're dry.

Use a dab of blue loctite on the bolts, and torque them to
factory specs.

Let it set awhile to let the loctite set up.

Then the bolts will never vibrate loose.
I do this on anything external like trans
pans, valve covers, front covers.

So do you have to lift the motor to drop the pan?

Unbolt the motor mounts from the K member raise the motor with a jack and block of wood inbetween. Raise it up , put a two by for inbetween the motor mount and the kmember. That should give you enuogh clearance to unbolt the pan.

When you raise the motor check everything to make sure it does not get in a bind , like cooling lines, sensor cables, etc.

you just had the trans out didnt you?
that would have been the perfect time for the oil pan gasket. oh well next time.

I still have the trans out,that why I was wondering how much more is involved to replace the pan gasket. Replaced the main seal then see it is leaking about a drop a day just below the rearmain,still has the original gasket which looks like it is not a one peice and everything except the peice just below the main is fine,no leakage. Thought maybe there was a easier fix or maybe a short cut. Just how high does the engine need lifted to get the pan out?

im not too sure about 94+ k member setup, or if you have braces in the way , but when i had my trans out i didnt need to lift the motor at all. just drained the oil, and unbolted the pan. if the gasket is the original soft rubber gasket, it is one piece, and will come out easily once the pan is down. keep in mind that you will not be able to get the pan out, but do not fear. the original gasket does not leave a mess to scrape off, all you need is brake cleaner and a rag to wipe the residual oil off of the pan and block. make sure you get the creases between the timing cover and block with silicone just before you put it back together. i put a ford gasket back in but a different style three piece cork and rubber gasket. upon reinstallation, use that gasket maker liquid (gaskacinch) and stick the two cork pieces to the block, and then stick the rubber cap pieces into their respective grooves using a little dab of silicone. once you have the gasket perfectly positoned, then put the pan back up. you have a lot more room with the trans out!

sounds as if the seal is not severely damaged. easy,quick and truly reliable if seal has only lost elasticity due 2 age and heat. atp reseal -part#at-205. a synthetic polyamer which will revitilize any rubber seal shrunken due 2 age or heat. never use sea foam or any product that contains petroleum distilates because all they do is swell the rubber 2 temporarely stop the leak but will also eat the rubber leaving you with a far worse leak.this can also b used for crank seals,rear mains,p/s pumps,trans and tail shafts etc. any where a seal isnt crimped or cracked,just merely old and dryrotted. the **** really works.

i think this is relavent enough. my oil check hose seems to be comming loose. i located the input hole on the side of the block and was able to just pull out the hose, that is bad right? any easy fix? thanks.

Pull it out clean it up, clean the block hole a bit put somesealer on the tube, put it in the hole and tap it in place with a small hammer and ?? punch. Make it seat well.