[kizzme1m1rish16]

I have a 1995 Ford Mustang V6 3.8L that shakes at idle, the whole car shakes pretty bad. The car doesn't really pick up speed, you can pick your foot to the floor and it will take like literally a minute to hit 60mph. The check engine was off for a little bit, but when i went halfway down the street the check engine light went on, then it started blinking about 2 miles later. Ive replaced the head gasket set, spark plugs, and radiator. Ive heard some people say it may be the mass air flow, and some say it may be the harmonic balancer, but they were only for similar symptoms and cars, so now I'm to the point where I need to know exactly so I posted my own thread. Let me know what you guys think is wrong.

 

[Markstang]

can you find out for us what codes the check engine light is giving off? get the codes read in an autozone or other parts store, theyll do it for free write them down or something and bring them back.. itll help diagnose the problem

 

[wmburns]

+1 on posting the full DTC codes. There are 1000's of codes and they each have a story to tell. Don't make us guess. Remember no information = no help.

FWIIW, the blinking check engine light means there is a "misfire" occuring at the time. The usual cause for misfire includes spark plugs, plug wires, spark plug routing (did you follow factory wire routing?), coil packs, fuel injector problems (clogged).

Since you have just done a head job, DOUBLE check that the plug wires are installed correct. IE correct coil pack going to the correct cylinder.

Try this old racer's trick. Run the car in a totally dark location. Look for the blue hue of arcing. Inspect the plug wires for white spots which is evidence of arcing.

Other possible causes could be the base engine running too hot. Did you follow the V6 coolant burbing/refill procedures? Any air trapped in the motor WILL cause the V6 to run hot.

Do you have under drive pulleys? Sometimes UD's can cause an unstable CKP signal leading to random misfires.

Other less likely causes could be excessive EGR flow, low fuel pressure, bad or incorrectly set up cam sensor, or exhaust restriction.

What are the results of a compression test? Since you replaced the head gaskets, did the car run better after the work was done or has it always been so down on power?