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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just changed out the head gaskets due to it overheating and blew one. No leaks, all cylinders are getting the right compression. No coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant. I got it running good again, but it was still overheating.

I replaced the radiator cap and thermostat. It was still getting hot.

So I took off the old radiator, flushed the entire system, and installed a new radiator add 60/40 water/coolant. There wasn't much junk in the cooling system when I flushed it and liquid seemed to flow through it freely. Then I took it for a drive, and it started getting hot again.

I parked it, elevate the front of the car, then burped the air out of the intake. Topped off the radiator. Took it for a drive again. It still got hot!

When the car is hot, the top radiator hose is definitely hot and pressurized. There is a hissing sound coming from around the water pump area when temp gauge is nearly on the L in the word normal. No leaks and no squealing or grinding coming from it when running either.

NOTE: Electric fan works and just got a new 3 prong pig tail connector it works in both modes high and low. Car overheats under normal driving conditions: 30-40 mph less than 3000rpms continuous driving within 15-20 min.

I have read 100's of posts and I cannot find a solution! Someone please help!
 
G

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Hey man, at least you know what it isn't, right?

The water pump may have gone south? You mention the hissing so it's possible it's worn and not working efficiently or a seal has gone bad. If it's hissing it may be drawing a vacuum from outside the housing and not sucking in the coolant as efficiently. Water pumps are a bit of a hassle to install but pretty cheap & easy compared to head gaskets.

Also considered maybe the temperature sending unit? Possible it's getting too hot before the fan comes on? It's supposed to come on around 210 degrees.

Any codes (lean conditions, timing set ok?) Those can cause overheating as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey man, at least you know what it isn't, right?

The water pump may have gone south? You mention the hissing so it's possible it's worn and not working efficiently or a seal has gone bad. If it's hissing it may be drawing a vacuum from outside the housing and not sucking in the coolant as efficiently. Water pumps are a bit of a hassle to install but pretty cheap & easy compared to head gaskets.

Also considered maybe the temperature sending unit? Possible it's getting too hot before the fan comes on? It's supposed to come on around 210 degrees.

Any codes (lean conditions, timing set ok?) Those can cause overheating as well.
I set the timing to 14 degrees, no engine lights or codes on the scanner. The fan turns on just before the gauge hits half way. Could it be a water pump if there is no leaks? I thought when water pumps went, they leak pretty bad. BTW it doesn't over heat idling. I left it running for a half hour and it was fine.(105 degrees outside)
 

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Are you running underdrive pulleys?

A water pump should not hiss. If it's original water pump the vanes can corrode and then won't do good job of pumping. So even with leak can be bad.

I would replace water pump. Wondering if hissing is the pump cavitatimg or flow going through bypass.
 
G

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Yeah, that's sounding more like the water pump not working efficiently at higher RPM's. Idling with no airflow over the radiator would be far harder on the car (and temperatures) if it was radiator or fan-related. Sounds like perhaps the pump isn't circulating well enough.

You're right, the usual failure-modes for a water-pump are bearing-related (you'll get coolant out of the weep-hole or even bearing seizure). Though as correctly mentioned, the vanes could be corroded or cavitated, or you could have a sealing issue. The hiss is definitely wrong, the rest are just guesses but pretty good ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you running underdrive pulleys?

A water pump should not hiss. If it's original water pump the vanes can corrode and then won't do good job of pumping. So even with leak can be bad.

I would replace water pump. Wondering if hissing is the pump cavitatimg or flow going through bypass.

No underdrive pully's, all stock. Ill be changing the water pump tomorrow. Ill let you guys know the outcome. Thanks for the help, everyone.
 

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I vote waterpump as well and if that don't work get them heads checked and make sure they are not warped or out of specs. I advise this when changing head gasket but that is just myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I vote waterpump as well and if that don't work get them heads checked and make sure they are not warped or out of specs. I advise this when changing head gasket but that is just myself.
Head gaskets has already been replaced, heads milled, and checked for cracks.
 

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Maybe just a simple radiator change.The cells get build up with crap in the radiator that causes to not cool properly.You can try the peak radiator flush that is kind of a pain in the [email protected]@ draining it and filling it three times.Or just buy a new or rebuilt unit.Start with the man cooling system.I would say second would be a new water pump.The water fins that pump the coolant into the block get dry rot and break sometimes. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maybe just a simple radiator change.The cells get build up with crap in the radiator that causes to not cool properly.You can try the peak radiator flush that is kind of a pain in the [email protected]@ draining it and filling it three times.Or just buy a new or rebuilt unit.Start with the man cooling system.I would say second would be a new water pump.The water fins that pump the coolant into the block get dry rot and break sometimes. Good luck

If you read my first post, I already installed a new radiator.
 
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