[mad19max87]

OK so here is my deal i am rebuilding my 302 and stroking her to a 347 stroker
parts list:
bottom end:
Engine Displacement (cu. in.) 347cuEngine Family Small Block 302 Based V8Balanced 28 oz. Balenced W/ balenced flywheelPiston Manufacturer Probe IndustriesPiston Material 2618-t61 Forged AluminumTop Type Reverse DomePiston Head Volume -20.1ccStandard Piston Bore (in) 4.0000 (Select over bore above)Compression Height (in) 1.175"Ring Type Moly-Pre FitCrankshaft Vendor Probe IndustriesCrankshaft Material Cast SteelStroke (in) 3.400Crankshaft Main Journal Size (in)2.248"Crankshaft Rod Journal Size (in) 2.123"Connecting Rod Vendor Probe IndustriesConnecting Rod Material 5140 Forged SteelConnecting Rod Length (in) 5.315"Connecting Rod Type Machined Beam (Bushed)


Top End: Trick flow 360hp fuel injected twisted wegde kit
Camshaft IncludedYesIntake Manifold IncludedYesFuel Delivery StyleFuel injectedIntake MaterialAluminumIntake FinishBlack powdercoated upper/Silver powdercoated lowerIntake StyleElectronic fuel injectionIntake Manifold Model (descriptive)Trick Flow® Track Heat® 75mmTiming Chain and Gears IncludedYesLifters IncludedNoGaskets IncludedYesCylinder Head StyleAssembledCylinder Head MaterialAluminumCylinder Head FinishNaturalCombustion Chamber Volume (cc)61CNC-Machined Combustion ChamberNoCombustion Chamber StyleHeartIntake Runner Volume (cc)170ccExhaust Runner Volume (cc)66ccCNC-Machined Intake RunnerNoCNC-Machined Exhaust RunnerNoIntake Port LocationStandardExhaust Port ShapeSquareExhaust Port LocationStandardIntake Valves IncludedYesIntake Valve Diameter (in)2.020 in.Exhaust Valves IncludedYesExhaust Valve Diameter (in)1.600 in.Intake Valve Angle15Exhaust Valve Angle17Valve Springs IncludedYesOutside Diameter of Outer Spring (in)1.460 in.Damper Spring IncludedYesNumber of Springs Per ValveDualRetainers IncludedYesRetainer MaterialChromoly steelLocks IncludedYesLock Style10 degreeValve Stem Seals IncludedYesValve Stem Seal StylePositive stopValve Stem Seal MaterialViton® fluoroelastomerRocker Arms IncludedYesRocker Arm StyleFull rollerRocker Arm Studs IncludedYesRocker Arm Nuts IncludedYesRocker Arm Nut Thread Size3/8-24 in.Guideplates IncludedYesGuideplate Pushrod Size5/16 in.Pushrods IncludedYesValve Covers IncludedYesValve Cover MaterialCast aluminumValve Cover FinishBlack powdercoatedValve Cover Mounting StylePerimeter boltAccessory Bolt Holes DrilledYesValve Guides IncludedYesValve Guide MaterialManganese bronzeValve Seats MachinedYesValve Seat Machine Style3-angleValve Seat MaterialTungstenSteam Holes DrilledNoOiling StyleThrough pushrodMachined for O-RingNoHeat CrossoverNoCylinder Head Bolts IncludedYes

Also:
BBK cold air intake
BBk 75mm throttle body

My questions for the community are:
what type of lifterd should i be running?
rough estimates on potential hp and tq i should make?
and last but not least are there any suggestions for potential changes to my parts list?
oh i am running lower compression because i plane to add a turbo at a later date?

Thank you all who reply for your time, suggestions, knowledge and estimations.

Sincerely, Max

 

[2Manystangs]

whoever sells you the cam should have matching lifters...
Toss BBK stuff, get Accufab TB and JLT CAI
Either build it for power or build it for boost that is added at the build or you will have a fat slow pig, I had a low compression 347 it make 245rwhp, someone had removed the supercharger..
At 11:1, you could easily make 400hp...don't forget good long tube headers and a huge ass fuel system (90 mm mass air, 42# injectors and a 255lph in tank pump)...then it needs a great custom tune
How about a beefed up transmission? Rear end, axles, suspension upgrades to support the new power?
...it's expensive, plan wisely...it takes buckets of cash to build a car
I'd never build another car, buy someone else's money pit, don't dig your own

 

[mad19max87]

well im putting 373 in the rear and the only reason im doing this rebuild is cause i over spun the motor and im building on somewhat of a budjet lol

 

[mad19max87]

would you recomend going with flat top pistons instead at 10.4:1 cr?

 

[2Manystangs]

budget and 347 are an oxymoron...I'd suggest a standard rebuild at 10:1 with the trick flow heads, use forged pistons/rods and a supercharger or turbo could be added down the road...not to mention a 347 can be a beast, it takes a big cam to make the power, mine had a 600 lift, at idle it shook the earth...something to consider if it's a daily

 

[93ksstang]

lift on a cam doesnt make big power. Cam design is key to the power amounts you make. Duration is a big part and lob separation is all in cam design. If you want a motor that will perform now but can easy be boosted at any time build a motor to have around 9-9.5:1 compression. This will allow it to still perform as an everyday drive and still be a performance motor. Just make sure your cam choice works for your application, turbo cams and supercharger cams are different.

 

[cindys_sn95]

if you are going to boost, keep the compression down. and get a cam designed for boost!

 

[mad19max87]

ok thank you. if i decide not to boost how do you think my set up would due only changing my pistons to flat tops instead of the dish. my cr would be around 10.4:1 i think?

 

[cindys_sn95]

that would be fine. 10.4 with aluminum heads will work great.

 

[mad19max87]

I know this can be a tough question to answer but how much power should I realistically expect from it?

 

[Dumbstixlars]

If you plan to run any decent boost on a stock block 347 it will not last very long before it splits on you. You really need a Dart block.