1995 mustang spark plug wire acceptable resistance

well so far so good. i checked cylinders 1-4 and the wires are all under 10 ohms. the plugs on that bank were all showing signs of being too hot or the timing is too advance, lean A/F, intake manifold vacuume leaks, sticky valve or cooling system not up to par.

i also found that the plugs weren't properly gapped to .052

i'll post the exact ohms when i can finish getting them, it's raining now ;(

here are the readings of the test i made per the haynes manual

cylinder / ohms
1 / 6.55k
2 / 5.69k
3 / 7.98k
4 / 7.64k
5 / 6.19k
6 / 6.90k
7 / 6.67k
8 / 8.21k

coil to distributor = 2.64 ohms

12v coil primary to coil post = 8.97 ohms

NEG coil secondary to coil post = 8.97 ohms

12v coil primary to case ground = 26.3 ohms

all the spark plugs were not gapped at all! so i gapped them to factroy .052

all the plugs on the passenger side bank had symptoms of lean conditions.

so, i don't whats going on. there is a slight surging, if there is a vac leak i can't find it, if its surging cause it's not getting a speed signal i don't know why cause the VSS is working, but the speedo on the dash is inop! i'm lost! ;(

a while back i cleaned the MAF sensor with brake clean off the car. it was dirty cause you can see the change in color. IDK if brake clean was a good thing to use, but i now have electric contact cleaner.
thats the one thing i didn't do, measure the wire length ;(
but either way they all are under 10 ohms. they are some regular, generic plug wires though.

i adjusted and cleaned the IAC around the time i cleaned the TB. i didn't record any voltage readings on the IAC to see how good it was working, but it was trying to keep the engine running when the RPMs dropped too low.

i also downloaded the ford TPS resetting procedures and did that a few times til it was were i liked it.

there is a vacuume line that i'm curious about thats missing. it goes from the A/C port on the vacuume tree thats on the driver's side and i guess it goes to the A/C vents in the car cause they aren't getting any vacuume to do any switching

i have that diagram printed out already, it's just that i don't see the line that goes in there at all. maybe i'll check the passenger fender to see if the idiot previous owner left it in there. i had the glove box out and i can see the vacuume reserve tank, but i need to look more to see if there is still a supply line on it...

upon further investigation, i found out that my car was originally a 4sp automatic car! that maybe why i'm having some of my issues.

1995 FORD MUSTANG GT/GTS

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VIN:1FALP42T3SF242357
World region:North America
Manufactured in:USA
Year:1995
Make:Ford
Model:MUSTANG GT/GTS
Body style:Coupe
Transmission:4 Spd Automatic
Fuel type:Gas
Cylinders:8 Cylinders
Safety restraintsual Front Air Bags
Standard optionsower Steering, Power Brakes, Tilt Wheel, AM/FM Stereo

i guess i need to pull the ECU and verify that it is a computer for a 4sp automatic since it's possible that they may have been smart enough to swap it out, but seeing the other work done to the car i bet they didn't. that may explain why the speedo doesn't work even though the VSS is working. could be wiring too, but i'll have to investigate that again. and that could be why i can't rev the engine past 3500 RPMs! what do ya'll think?

ok so, i fixed the empty A/C port on the vacuume tree. i had a piece of 1/4" air brake line in my garage, so i ran the line into the car to the vacuume reserve tank, then shrink wrapped the ends to seal and damn did alot of dust and foam bits blow out of them vents! :ahhhhhthe vent doors now work great.

i also unplugged the IAC and adjusted the throttle stop and IAC screws and the engine still hunts for an idle. sometimes it's a 100-300 RPM swing and as much as a 500 RPM swing. does that mean that there is a vacuume leak for sure somewhere?

PANTYEATR said:

i get a check engine light while i'm driving sometimes, but i don't have the OBD1 cable to connect to my scan tool yet, so i can't tell you what it is yet and when i go to the autozone, they don't have a OBD1 connector for thier scan tools either WTF!

Click to expand...

You just need a test light...
DIY KOEO/KOER/Cylinder Balance Self-Test Procedure

i know you guys are gonna laugh but i'm intimidated by all this jumper wire in the scan tool port stuff. OBD2 cars are easier, just flip the ignition switch 3 times in 10 seconds and it will flash you the codes. i just don't wanna short anything out and kill the ECU.

i have the haynes manual and i read these procedures over and over to know and understand what i'm doing, but i'm not there yet

i got a chance to go to my friend's shop to use his equis scan tool and here are the codes that i got:

KOEO
176 - EGO not switching, lean exhaust bank 2

212 - no tachometer input to processor SPOUT ??? (the tach on the dash is working, but not smoothly)

543 - fuel pump circuit open - battery to PCM ??? (the car wouldn't run at all if this was bad right) ???

KOER
136 - no EGO (HO2S-1) switch lean exhaust bank 2

me and my friends agree that there is a "tapping" on the passenger side valve cover of the engine. it gets faster with RPMs, so we think it's a broken rocker, bad lifters or bad push rods. at teh very worst case the cam could be busted up too ;(

imma try to get back to my friend's shop to use his laser thermometer and see which exhaust ports are colder than the others, then attack the issue.