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1996 Mustang CCRM issues?

6263 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  shinerstang
:bigthumbsupHi please help, as the title states this is a '96 lx conv with a 3.8l engine with an auto tranny. Now pay attention (lol) it has a 2003 engine and trans running on (was) the 96 computer and custom engine harness with a custom flash on the PROM. (285 bhp @ rear wheels). Now that being said this is where it goes bad, the car just quit running, pulled the codes and nothing was logged, let the car sit overnite and it started and ran fine did a KOEO/ and a KOER and nothing, about 20 mins at idle it started chugging and died! no Start, but listening to it here is a clue the CCRM was having a fit, buzzing, clicking, and the fan was coming on with the key so? started troubleshooting, first thought was a bad ground right? so at pin15 on the ccrm i grounded it, same thing. so hmmmm pos + pwr issue maybe? grabbed pinout from schematic and checked 12V at inputs, they were all fine. Ok then Must be a bad CCRM, went and got a New Ford Part and guess what? That was $140 bucks gone, so I thought maybe it's the wiring that I did? so I disconnected the engine harness (the only mod done when installing the new drivetrain) and it still has fits! The suck part about this is it doesnt do the buzz/ clicking all the time, when it does stop, the car will start right up and run fine for 20 to 45 min before rebeling:nono: So on we go right, I grabbed the nicest rubber mallet I could find, and started tapping around the car and when I got around the computer it stopped, I thought hmmmm. Pulled the computer, popped the covers inspected, cleaned, and reinstalled same, nope same thing so tapped lightly (dont cringe) and nothing so where to? Corrosion doesnt appear to be an Issue as I reside in Az. any thoughts or insights to similar issues to help resolve this would be greatly appreciated...:worshipjust as a side note I'm using a otc Genisys and Ford pin-out box for t/sing:smilie
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IMO, you are going to have to get a clue as to why the motor is shutting down. For example, is it related to power or sensor input (or lack of).

To rule out a power issue, monitor the power from the CCRM to the various circuits. Start first with the PCM and go from there. Once you get a toe hold, this will tells us where to focus.

FWIIW, often when the CCRM makes noise it's because of low voltage (voltage too low to latch the relays). Many ppl have replaced a CCRM only to find out the battery terminals are corroded.

Today's cars will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. The voltage must be correct at each of the sub-systems within the car.
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How long has the car been running since you did the swap? Is this a recent swap or has it been fine for months?

What did you do about the cam sensor/synchronizer? Are you using the 96 3-wire, or the 03 2-wire?

All things considered, it sounds like a bad PCM.....
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folow up to ?'s

The car isn't running because it's loosing power to all the circuits from the ccrm. ie the pcm, fuel pump. when it's not throwing a fit the car runs fine. as far as the cam position sensor i used the 96 3 wire... the car has been running this setup (meaning the new engine/ and transmission ) for about a year without any problems:yelwacko:
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Backprobe the cam sensor, tps, and crank sensor for proper signal. I want to rule out the signal from both until I tell you it's a bad PCM........

I chased ghosts:banghead: last year in the turbo car until I found out is was the crappy MSD box........
Consider that a problem in the ignition switch could cause this symptom.

Also check the CCRM's ground itself. Not a bad idea to check all the grounds around the radiator core support.
appreciate all the suggestions but, the issue is truely that the pcm/ecm is loosing power along with the fuel pump. when the relays arent throwing a fit the car starts right up. When I disconnect the motor at the qd it still continues to buzz click buzz. add in that i've also t/s using a battery charger to eliminate loss of power, and corrosion at batt terminals ughhh. it will run fine for 20 to 40 mins when cold, then it starts acting up.:?:
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Sounds like you are sure it's a CCRM.

Recommend getting a re-man unit from your local autoparts store.

Good luck to you.
actually looks like a new computer is in order... ill let you guys Know, thanks for the assist:cooldude:
follow up...

well people im happy to report that my problem was in fact the Eec/Pcm. after a quick swap the car is back to normal (boo). I have to have the computer re Flashed cause it's running like grandmas car, but it least it's running:kooky:I gotta say after countless hours of denial and labor intensive troubleshooting it all pays off in the end. and in case your wondering I got the computer from the salvage yard for $75 ...
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Glad you got it fixed.......:bigthumbsup

I knew we could figure it out for you.......
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