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1996 Mustang Engine Removal Question

2124 Views 23 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  osirus
Okay, so I've got a buddys' 1996 Mustang taking up space in my driveway. It started out that he blew a head gasket and was just going to replace it with another one of my friends at my house. Okay, no big deal. Well, the other buddy (not the cars owner, obviously.) who happens to be a big mustang guy and was the one who talked him into doing the gasket change himself in the first place kinda flaked out. So, i have a kid doing a head gasket job by himself for the first time right next to me while I'm working on my Camaro. I made the mistake of not paying attention to him for too long and he had a friend of his come over and try to help him get the head bolts off. Apparently the outside head bolts were fairly well frozen on there. Okay, so they bang on a socket and reef as hard as they can until two of said bolts round off. Not having the tools to deal with that, we opted to pull the motor instead since his uncle has a machine shop and it would just all around be easier that way. We have everything disconnected and it's read to come out, I just don't know where I should mount my chain to so I can pull it. The upper and lower intakes are out right now and the driver side head is being held on by two bolts. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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im a chevy guy too shhhh dont tell.
im telling EVERONE. :hihi:

well you cant really get mad. im sure we've all rounded off a bolt or two in the past. you gotta learn somehow. good luck
i've rounded off/crossthreaded my fair share of bolts back in the day. (not on my car thank god:nogrinner).

2 words, tap & die.:gringreen
yeah sometimes it just cant be avoided. im originally from massachusetts and they love their road salt there. i never touched a bolt without using PB blaster first. and i had to use a torch on a daily basis
yes pb blaster... i swear by that stuff. pretty much everytime i work on exhaust that stuff is needed. especially on northerners' cars. it's not very often i have to torch something, but i've had to do it a couple times. it gets the job done :bigthumbsup

just out of curiousity, what kind of shop do you work at?
that's cool.

i was a tech at a toyota dealership for about a year and a half, and now i've been a tech at a hyundai dealership for the last year or so.

you're flat rate, correct?
yeah they call it commission but its the same principal. i make a percentage of the shop labor rate rather than an hourly flat rate but its the same thing
"hourly flat rate"...

lol that confused me a little...

theres hourly and theres flat rate, hourly you get paid a certain amount of money for each hour you work, and flat rate you get paid a certain amount of money for each hour you flag.

just for an example, lets say you make $20 an hour. you replace a timing belt that pays 4 hours but you get it done in 3 hours... how much money did you make? :happyhapp
i guess that's one way to put it...:scratchchin
make sure your TPS is reading within spec at all positions all the way from C/T to WOT. it should also be reading 0.96v with the pedal all the way up (C/T, or "closed throttle".)

if the readings are all out of whack i'd suggest replacing the TPS.
How would I go about checking that? I also need to find out what he's changed out and what he's done to try to fix it. I know he changed so vacuum lines and a couple other things. I think he said he was replacing the wires that went to "it". at least, that's what he said.
a handheld tuner or an obd2 scanner with live data capabilities would be the easiest way.

if you have a dvom i can tell you how to check it that way as well. it's a bit more involved, but still easy.
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