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I'm replacing my driver's side axle and now I've come across a problem. I opened up the diff housing and all that and I got to the bolt that holds the pinion shaft from sliding out of the differential. I removed the bolt easily and then I notice only about 1/3 of the bolt came out. Half the of the threaded part is still in the diff housing and the rest is in the shaft. I can't remove the axle without first getting this shaft out to remove the c-lock!

Is this situation even possible to have fixed or is my entire rearend going to have to be removed and have it machined out??

Nothing goes easy with this car.

I took pictures to help explain the situation, I'll post them up later tonight when I get a chance.
 

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iv come across 4 or 5 broken shaft bolts...if all the threads are out you can get a strong magnet and a thin punch and try to work it out that way....all the times the bolt broke and the threads were still in there i only got it out once....REAL PAIN IN THE ASS....if you have to you might just need to grind the metal away to get the rest of it out and get a new locker
 

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The threads definately have not cleared all the way.
Here are pics to show how much of the bolt came out.
You can see a score line in one picture where the bolt remains inside. The other picture shows the actualy bolt and its lined up against where it broke inside the diff casing.
rear2.jpg rear3.jpg
 

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Try doing a search on web for a Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt Extractror Kit.
It's easy and worked great on my both my cars.

Good luck,
Rich
 

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Bolt

Yeah, I think your right, he probably did fix it by now but it does bug me that over the years, bolts, nuts or just about anything that you would think should be made of quality material is now produced using cottage cheese.
 

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Yeah, I think your right, he probably did fix it by now but it does bug me that over the years, bolts, nuts or just about anything that you would think should be made of quality material is now produced using cottage cheese.
I've never had an issue with those bolts. I honestly think it was operator error in this case.
 

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Bolt

Well the last 2 that I did, my car and a friends had red on them after they were heated and removed but either way they are supposed to heated for removal.
 

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I bet he's been waiting for your response for over a year and a half now....
Maybe not, but it sure helped me just yesterday!
I've never had an issue with those bolts. I honestly think it was operator error in this case.
Or else blind faith in a shop manual. My Ford shop manual did not give the torque spec for this bolt, but the Haynes said ... ... wait for it ... ... 70-85 ft-lbs (Yes, I checked and double-checked)!

Can you say, "SNAP!" (and a few other choice exclamations which I'm glad my kids didn't hear)?

I finally found the spec for the same bolt on a different rear end in the Ford manual: 15-22 ft-lbs.

So, um...... yeah -- operator error.


Anyway, the bolt is snapped off at the head so all the threads are in. Any thoughts on how long it will stay there? I'm trying to gauge how long I can drive it while I wait for the extractor kit to arrive.

Thanks and Best Regards,
 

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Maybe not, but it sure helped me just yesterday!
Or else blind faith in a shop manual. My Ford shop manual did not give the torque spec for this bolt, but the Haynes said ... ... wait for it ... ... 70-85 ft-lbs (Yes, I checked and double-checked)!

Can you say, "SNAP!" (and a few other choice exclamations which I'm glad my kids didn't hear)?

I finally found the spec for the same bolt on a different rear end in the Ford manual: 15-22 ft-lbs.

So, um...... yeah -- operator error.


Anyway, the bolt is snapped off at the head so all the threads are in. Any thoughts on how long it will stay there? I'm trying to gauge how long I can drive it while I wait for the extractor kit to arrive.

Thanks and Best Regards,
heh... ask markwondi if you can borrow his welder when he's done with it to weld the head back on, then just turn it out...

Really, if the extractor doesn't work (for some reason they sometimes dont for me) and you have a mig or a stick welder (oxy-acetalyne will work, but all that heat messes with the temper of the steel), youcan take a big washer, spot weld it to the center of the bolt, then weld the head onto the washer. Just make sure you dont weld the bolt in place... then you'll be sure to need a new bumkin...
 

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Really, if the extractor doesn't work .... you can take a big washer, spot weld it to the center of the bolt, then weld the head onto the washer.
Well, I stuck a cobalt drill bit in the dremel and tried to drill it out so I could use an easy-out, but after several minutes the drill barely made a dimple. Slotting it with a diamond ball cutter worked like a champ -- backed 'er right out with a screwdriver!
Just make sure you dont weld the bolt in place...
D'OH!
Thanks for the encouragment. When the bolt first snapped I thought it was a goner; sew it back up and send it over the cliff. Now I think the patient will live.

Strange thing, though: the aftermarket (NAPA) bolt was about 1/4 inch shorter than the original bolt. So I checked a dealer part and it also was shorter. At least it still extends about 1/8 inch past the pinion shaft, but I wonder how that will affect its propensity for breaking below the threads...

Cheers,
T.
 

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Well, I stuck a cobalt drill bit in the dremel and tried to drill it out so I could use an easy-out, but after several minutes the drill barely made a dimple. Slotting it with a diamond ball cutter worked like a champ -- backed 'er right out with a screwdriver!
D'OH!
Thanks for the encouragment. When the bolt first snapped I thought it was a goner; sew it back up and send it over the cliff. Now I think the patient will live.

Strange thing, though: the aftermarket (NAPA) bolt was about 1/4 inch shorter than the original bolt. So I checked a dealer part and it also was shorter. At least it still extends about 1/8 inch past the pinion shaft, but I wonder how that will affect its propensity for breaking below the threads...

Cheers,
T.
Good job! Rarely does that work for me - if it sheared of the head of the bolt because it was jammed in there, I usually can't get enough torque on a screwdriver to get it out. I welded a cross bar to a craftsman screwdriver to get some more power on it, an the dang tip broke off... for some reason sears wouldn't accept the return - something or another about misuse....
 
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