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1996 Mustang GT VS 2005 Mustang GT

1534 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  logan
So I joined a local Muscle car club that is here in fresno and yesterday we were out doing a couple runs. I have never raced my '96 because one its an auto and 2 i feel that I can not keep up with the 5 speed guys. My mustang has the full PI swap with stage 1 cams from comp cam, 75 t.b. and plenum, CAI, UDPs, MAC long tube headers, MAC shorty O/R H pipe, SLP Loudmouth 1's, 3:73 gears, and an SCT dyno tune. The guys wanted to see what my car can do but I refused to race. So as the nigh continued the more persistent they became so I agreed to 1 race with the 2005 Mustang GT 5-speed and it was stock. We lined them up and had a race from a dig when we launched the 05 got me but not i caught him quick and got him by a car length. I had no idea my car was able to do that. I do not clame victory because one my car was modded and his was stock. It was a good race and I was proud of the way my car handled. I was not happy by the way my car launched so how can I fix that. My friends suggested a higher stall and a shift kit. So i did my research and found this stall what do you guys think? AODE Torque Converter 4R70W Torque Converter 3200-3500 Stall Heavy Duty Torque Converter
and a shift kit from AM? Performance Automatic Street/Strip Shift Kit (96-04 GT, V6, Mach 1) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! I want to be able to keep up with these guys thanks for the advise.
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a stall converter is great for an auto you'll be able to launch at higher rpm's when ur throwin run's my only concern would probibly be daily driving because the higher stall means the engine must reach a higher rpm before the converter begins to couple to the transmission and create motion in the car, example u get a 3500 stall converter then you'll have to rev up to 3500 in order for ur car to start movinghttp://www.ehow.com/facts_6187226_difference-stock-stall-torque-converters.html# n thats all the time traffic/ stop signs / traffic lights... thats just a heads up what 2 expect not sayin dont do it i plan on dropin 1 in my car soon (i have an auto)
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That is a problem since this is my daily driver. Will putting a 3500 stall on a daily driver put a strain on the engine or the transmission? What if I just put a shift kit will that help the launch or will it be useless without the stall?
if its a daily, i wouldnt get a stall converter.

do you have any suspention mods? control arms and drag springs would help you hook better. also drag radials...but those arent good for a DD
^+1 What he said and a shift kit will help shifting mainly shifting harder and faster. I know a hand held tuner you can control shift points but don't know about firmness of shifts but think you can.
That's what I figured! I have no suspention upgrades so far but I am planning on getting H&S lowering springs, shocks and stuts, lower control arms, and subframes! Hope these help with the launching:yup:
those will make a world of difference in traction. youre gonna hook like crazy
Yepp stall is no good for a DD. A shift kit will help, and I assume you are tuned do to the PI swap, but have your shift firmness and shift points adjusted. Best thing I did for my auto GT. And like everyone else has said, do suspension mods; control arms, springs, shocks/struts, subframes and tires as well. Either way good kill, old school beating on a newer GT awesome! I like to surprise people as well.
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Hi, sorry to invade, Ive got a 1996 gt auto and am looking at installing a shift kit as it takes forever to change gear when i floor it. sometimes it shifts hard and launches forward which is great, but i cant seem to get it to do that when flooring it from a standstill? wondering if a shiftkit would fix this? I cant seem to find info on what is a good one etc anywhere can someone paste some links up or something to give me an idea of what to look at?
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OP, what kind of tires do you have? How wide? If they are stockers that could be contributing to your bad launch also. Wider, stickier tires will help a lot.


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A shift kit will not help the launch, only make it shift quicker. I recommend a 2800 stall converter to help with the launches being its street driven. 3500 up is way to much for the stock mustangs to begin with.
Ha this thread is 2 years old....just noticed that


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Ha this thread is 2 years old....just noticed that


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Me too. OOPs:gringreen
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A shift kit will not help the launch, only make it shift quicker. I recommend a 2800 stall converter to help with the launches being its street driven. 3500 up is way to much for the stock mustangs to begin with.
Mine seems to go really well in lower revs, but if my foot is flat to the ground then it seems to hang suspended in the high revs not putting any power on the ground whilst it takes a good couple of seconds to change gear - which is when my brothers v-tec type R passes me. incredibly embarrassing.
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Mine seems to go really well in lower revs, but if my foot is flat to the ground then it seems to hang suspended in the high revs not putting any power on the ground whilst it takes a good couple of seconds to change gear - which is when my brothers v-tec type R passes me. incredibly embarrassing.
How old is the fluid and filter in your trans? If the answer is "I don't know", then change it. A complete transmission fluid flush is really the best way of doing it, but most places charge $150-$200. If that's not in the budget, go buy 6 qts. (we only ended up using 5 total, but it's better to have an extra one than be low by 1 qt) of MerconV fluid and a new filter at Autozone and you can drop the pan and do it yourself in an hour or two. It's a little messy, so lay down a nice area of cardboard under and around your drain pan.

I did this about a month ago on my bro in law's '03 GT (has about 130K on it and unknown service prior to this) and it made a huge difference in how that transmission acts. And really doing it that way is still only replacing about 40% of the fluid; so just imagine the difference in replacing 100%.

As far as shift kits (Transgo, etc.) my understanding is they can do more harm than good in the long run. There is a better alternative, referred to as the J-Mod, which was designed by and named after the very Ford engineer that designed your transmission, Jerry (forgot last name, starts with a "W"). Doing that will get you the shifting results you desire, and will actually also prolong transmission life. Google it to learn more.

You also have another problem, and really it's why the V-Tech is passing you. Your engine sucks, and falls flat on it's ass after 3800 rpms. This is due to the heads and intake manifold that Ford gave it. Look into doing a PI swap - it's the heads and intake from a 1999+ Mustang. If not the heads, then at least for the love of God and country do the intake. It costs about $220 and can be done in an afternoon, and you will be rewarded with a solid 15hp bump, and it will rev and make power in the upper rpms where your current setup is choking. Those V-Techs like to rev and they make good power up high; if you wanna play with them then you need to be able to do the same.
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Thanks for your reply. The trans has just had an entire rebuild- under 1000kms ago. Will look onto a j-mod unit. Can this be used in conjunction with the sct tuner? I have put a CAI on it and am planning on getting a bbk shorty header with off road h pipe and American thunder flow master catback. I also have 3.73 gears waiting to go in and am researching cams. I talked to a guy that had a 96 and he said it also had a flat spot in the same place, the sct tuner got rid of it he reckoned. I'm also finding it much better running it on 98 octane too.


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And I would look at doin a PI swap if it didn't cost stupid $ to get one to newzealand. I would have to grind out the intake chamber to lower the compression too if I was to supercharge it one day. so I'm figuring sticking with stock heads with 78mm throttle body and plenum elbow should be good enough for now?


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Yes, altering the shift points and firmness via handheld tuner in conjunction with a J-Mod valvebody is the way to go.

If you're serious about going s/c one day, then you're correct on wanting to keep your current NPI heads due to the compression ratio. You can and should still look into doing the intake when time and money allow though. And the NPI heads actually can be made to outflow ported PI heads, so retaining them isn't necessarily a bad thing.

98 octane?? Damn, you guys get the good stuff over there. Best we have on this side of the lake is 93, unless you run race fuel or ethanol based fuels, both of which do not have widespread availability and in the case of ethanol with older vehicles like ours you have to make fuel system and tuning changes to run it.
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http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/index.shtml

This being the link on how to do the Jerry mod?

I read somewhere that our octane has a different rating system so our 98 is the same as your 93, a guy here used a sct tuner set on 93 and just filled up with 98 and he reckoned it changed from having almost full traction at wide open throttle from a standstill, to lighting up on the spot


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