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7 Posts
1996 V6 Mustang With Power Windows.
If you have manual windows you will require a small specialized non-expensive tool to remove the crank. Local auto store should have this.
For years I operated my door locks using the Viper Alarm remote control. I hadn’t put a real key into my door locks for maybe 15 years. When the Viper finally failed I was in trouble, I discovered that both door locks and the trunk lock wouldn't turn. I could get the key in about half way and that's where it would stop. It was too late for WD40. And of course I had thrown away my original remotes that came with the car from the dealer. At the time I figured I’d never need them again since I had the Viper remotes.
Believe it or not but Ford won't sell you a cylinder with a key! They will order you cylinders and then key them to your ignition for @ $260.00 or so.
So here's how you go about replacing the door cylinders (passenger side). Various sources on the internet sell replacement cylinders with keys for @ $40 - $45. Of course it won’t match the ignition, but in my case the car is 17 years old. I don’t care if I need to have 2 keys.
Tools you will need:
Large flat screw driver.
Needle nose pliers.
Smaller flat screw driver.
Phillips head screw driver.
Bright flash light.
Level of Difficulty Scale 1-5: I give it a 2
Time to Complete: <30 min
Step 1. Remove the inside door (passenger) panel by:
A. Pop off the power lock and power window panel with the large flat screw driver by inserting it in the small slot at the top of the switch panel. Work it off.
B. Once out flip it over & remove the 2 screws with Philips head driver that are holding the buttons in place. Move the buttons out of the way. DO NOT disconnect any wires.
C. Use Philips head drive to remove 2 black screws that are now exposed in the door panel behind where the buttons used to be. These 2 screws hold the panel to the door. Look for them. They are small.
D. Now use the flat head to pop the bezel around the door handle. Work all sides carefully not to break. There are many gripping points that need to be worked free. Remove the bezel.
E. Open the door. At the hinged end near the bottom there is a plastic plug. Use the smaller flat head and pry out carefully. Once you see some daylight between the plug & door use needle nose to remove. Don’t bend it while trying to remove. Use the needle nose to pull out straight. It’s about 1 – 1 ½ inch long.
F. Now you’re ready to remove the panel. Carefully lift the panel up, not too high, but enough so the door lock rod that goes through the panel can clear. Slide the panel slightly to the left and gently tip the panel towards you. The panel has several plastic hooks on the inside that hook into the car door. Don’t force anything. If you removed all of the screws, plug & bezel the panel is very easy to remove.
Step 2. Door Cylinder Removal:
A. Don’t be intimidated. The hard part is over. Pull back on the white plastic sheeting from the outer edge of the door about 1 - 2 feet.
B. The cylinder lock is held in place by a flat forked looking flush mount bracket. Take your flash light and locate the cylinder. You will see the bracket that has somewhat of a tab at the top that holds the cylinder to the door. You will also see a door locking rod held in place by the cylinder.
C. Reach your hand through the large opening at the bottom of the door up to the top of the door and remove the rod from the cylinder. It’s a tight fit and a long reach but you can do it. You might break the plastic holding the rod since its mostly one way locking. You’re replacing it anyway.
D. Now remove the flush bracket holding the cylinder. Push up on the tab to remove.
E. The lock should now be free to be removed from the outside of the car.
F. Take a break! You deserve it!
G. Break Over – Back to Work.
H. The locks have a Right and Left side to the car. If the lock isn’t going in smoothly don’t force it. You probably grabbed the wrong one. They are supposed to color coded but, well that’s quality control for you.
I. Just put everything back in reverse order. You don’t need to force anything. My Mustang is 17 years old and everything went smooth. I didn’t need to beat on anything.
As for my trunk lock, I’ll continue to use the button in my glove box.
Hope this was helpful. :wavey
If you have manual windows you will require a small specialized non-expensive tool to remove the crank. Local auto store should have this.
For years I operated my door locks using the Viper Alarm remote control. I hadn’t put a real key into my door locks for maybe 15 years. When the Viper finally failed I was in trouble, I discovered that both door locks and the trunk lock wouldn't turn. I could get the key in about half way and that's where it would stop. It was too late for WD40. And of course I had thrown away my original remotes that came with the car from the dealer. At the time I figured I’d never need them again since I had the Viper remotes.
Believe it or not but Ford won't sell you a cylinder with a key! They will order you cylinders and then key them to your ignition for @ $260.00 or so.
So here's how you go about replacing the door cylinders (passenger side). Various sources on the internet sell replacement cylinders with keys for @ $40 - $45. Of course it won’t match the ignition, but in my case the car is 17 years old. I don’t care if I need to have 2 keys.
Tools you will need:
Large flat screw driver.
Needle nose pliers.
Smaller flat screw driver.
Phillips head screw driver.
Bright flash light.
Level of Difficulty Scale 1-5: I give it a 2
Time to Complete: <30 min
Step 1. Remove the inside door (passenger) panel by:
A. Pop off the power lock and power window panel with the large flat screw driver by inserting it in the small slot at the top of the switch panel. Work it off.
B. Once out flip it over & remove the 2 screws with Philips head driver that are holding the buttons in place. Move the buttons out of the way. DO NOT disconnect any wires.
C. Use Philips head drive to remove 2 black screws that are now exposed in the door panel behind where the buttons used to be. These 2 screws hold the panel to the door. Look for them. They are small.
D. Now use the flat head to pop the bezel around the door handle. Work all sides carefully not to break. There are many gripping points that need to be worked free. Remove the bezel.
E. Open the door. At the hinged end near the bottom there is a plastic plug. Use the smaller flat head and pry out carefully. Once you see some daylight between the plug & door use needle nose to remove. Don’t bend it while trying to remove. Use the needle nose to pull out straight. It’s about 1 – 1 ½ inch long.
F. Now you’re ready to remove the panel. Carefully lift the panel up, not too high, but enough so the door lock rod that goes through the panel can clear. Slide the panel slightly to the left and gently tip the panel towards you. The panel has several plastic hooks on the inside that hook into the car door. Don’t force anything. If you removed all of the screws, plug & bezel the panel is very easy to remove.
Step 2. Door Cylinder Removal:
A. Don’t be intimidated. The hard part is over. Pull back on the white plastic sheeting from the outer edge of the door about 1 - 2 feet.
B. The cylinder lock is held in place by a flat forked looking flush mount bracket. Take your flash light and locate the cylinder. You will see the bracket that has somewhat of a tab at the top that holds the cylinder to the door. You will also see a door locking rod held in place by the cylinder.
C. Reach your hand through the large opening at the bottom of the door up to the top of the door and remove the rod from the cylinder. It’s a tight fit and a long reach but you can do it. You might break the plastic holding the rod since its mostly one way locking. You’re replacing it anyway.
D. Now remove the flush bracket holding the cylinder. Push up on the tab to remove.
E. The lock should now be free to be removed from the outside of the car.
F. Take a break! You deserve it!
G. Break Over – Back to Work.
H. The locks have a Right and Left side to the car. If the lock isn’t going in smoothly don’t force it. You probably grabbed the wrong one. They are supposed to color coded but, well that’s quality control for you.
I. Just put everything back in reverse order. You don’t need to force anything. My Mustang is 17 years old and everything went smooth. I didn’t need to beat on anything.
As for my trunk lock, I’ll continue to use the button in my glove box.
Hope this was helpful. :wavey
