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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So I've asked for advice on my setup before but I just wanted to get some more opinions. Currently I have (waiting to be installed) one 12'' Alpine Type-E Single Voice and a ported box for it as well as an Alpine 150-watt amp. Will this setup be enough for the deep bass I am looking for? (I wanna feel it in my seat and see the mirrors shake!) Or should I go with two 12'' subs, one on either side of the trunk? Any help is appreciated, thanks!
 

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As long as the other speakers can keep up with it, then get 2.
 

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one twelve is more than enough for sound issues, however if you are wanting to feel it in your seat and shake windows etc, then you need two. And as Socal said, you will need to upgrade and probably amp your highs and mids just to hear them above the bass.
 

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Also, regardless of if you have 1 or 2 subs, you'll probably want a much bigger amp. 150w isn't very much power for subs(that's a peak rating, not continuous, so rms power figure maybe 50-70% of the peak rating), I would use something like that to power like the door speakers or something. If it were me, I'd do the 2 12's with like a 1000w amp, and turn the gain control to about 75%.... actually that's exactly what I did do, but with 2 10's in a sealed box.
 

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+1 on a bigger amp. 150w is pretty weak for one 12, let alone two.
I don't give a damn about the stereo in my car. I run two 10's on a 600w amp in my truck. It's more obnoxious than I need it to be.
 

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I wouldn't go any less than 500 if your looking for good, clear, deep bass and even that is a very low number. I am putting 500w to my two 10s and that is just above average to most. Especially the dampened sound and loads of rattle in your trunk, you want a good setup. With this also comes better speakers. I am running Infinity component 6x8s and dome tweeters throughout all wired to a 4 channel amps and they are obnoxiously clear and loud! Just don't low ball it and take your time with it and your will be fine. Another tip, do plenty research especially if you are doing the install yourself. And go off RMS ratings NOT peak ratings for subs. ALWAYS!
 

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I have 2 12" in my trunk with 3 amps....absolutely no room!

You can feel the base hitting your chest about 6 feet away from the car.

Trunk.jpg

+1 on needing more power. The amp for the subs is rated at 1200 RMS and 2400 dynamic.

+1 on running amps to all the other speakers.

I redesigned my system from a Mach460 to a Mach4600....just kidding, its actually only 4000 watts peak and not 4600 watts
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow well thanks for all the info. I have some work to do and money to spend forreal.
 

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I have 2 12" in my trunk with 3 amps....absolutely no room!

You can feel the base hitting your chest about 6 feet away from the car.

View attachment 142577

+1 on needing more power. The amp for the subs is rated at 1200 RMS and 2400 dynamic.

+1 on running amps to all the other speakers.

I redesigned my system from a Mach460 to a Mach4600....just kidding, its actually only 4000 watts peak and not 4600 watts
That's a really nice looking install, really dig how it's painted to match your car. I had to mount my amp on the front of the box like that too, which it looks good that way but I only did it that way out of lack for any other place to put it. ****** thing is I have to unscrew the amp from the box so I can take the box out of the trunk if I ever get a flat tire. Thank God I don't really have that kind of luck, but you never know when shits gonna happen.
 

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Also, regardless of if you have 1 or 2 subs, you'll probably want a much bigger amp. 150w isn't very much power for subs(that's a peak rating, not continuous, so rms power figure maybe 50-70% of the peak rating),
If I remember correctly continuous RMS is 72% of peak. Just don't ask me to do the calculations to derive RMS from peak. It's been 14 years since I saw those done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So how many watts should I be looking at for 2 12'' subs? 750+ ?
 

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That's a really nice looking install, really dig how it's painted to match your car. I had to mount my amp on the front of the box like that too, which it looks good that way but I only did it that way out of lack for any other place to put it. ****** thing is I have to unscrew the amp from the box so I can take the box out of the trunk if I ever get a flat tire. Thank God I don't really have that kind of luck, but you never know when shits gonna happen.
I really didn't want to mount it there. I approached my system install without really thinking about the trunk volume. I have never liked having my amps stuffed under seats or somewhere they can't breath and cool off. I really like the look of an amp that's nestled flush in a pocket but, I'm just not going to go though the trouble of trying to vent it.

After I made my speaker box to spec for the cubic feet they called for. That was all the room I had left in the trunk. Only place left to put the amp for the subs was on the back of the box.

I am hoping to get around to changing the way everything is set up in that space this winter...but who knows.

If I remember correctly continuous RMS is 72% of peak. Just don't ask me to do the calculations to derive RMS from peak. It's been 14 years since I saw those done.
years ago the general rule of thumb was half. That was when (it seemed anyway) everybody was only marketing and putting specs for max power on the amps and speakers. So when you shopped around for car audio and it said 1000 watts...generally best to figure it was a 500 RMS speaker and set it up that way. Than you had to really dig to find out if it was 1 ohm, 2ohm, 4 ohm, even seen 8 ohm for car audio.

More or less it seemed that they were always throwing out something that said 1000 watts and if you dug deep enough. You would find the spec was at 1 ohm max power. On top of that, the speaker would never hold together for more than 2 minutes if you attempted to run it at 1 ohm with max power. In that case...generally figured 1/4th of max watts power running it at 4 ohms would make it sound good. So the bullsh!t number of 1000 watts for that speaker, sounded pretty good at 250 watts 4 ohms.

That was then and this is now. I never really cared about what it said max power was. I always tried to match my speakers and amps according to the spec of RMS power and the coinciding Ohm's for it...be it 2 or 4. I only run my subs down to 1 ohm and only if they are spec'ed for it.

The amps I have are Polk Audio. They don't even list max watts on the spec sheet. Which I personally like because it paints a better picture to a novice audio pile of whats really going on. It has (in a sense) replaced max power with Dynamic power. Therefore, giving a better idea of the meaning. Dynamic being currently active, You can have high points dynamically of 2400 watts but its not going to set and run at that. It's dynamic and can change but that's the most its going to push out if pushed hard enough for a moment. When something just says Max power of 2400 watts, kind of gives the impression that you can set and run it or load a speaker with 2400 watts. Just not going to happen.

Here is a link for the subs I'm running. They are model number T112D4 12" POWER T1 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer. Has a pretty lengthy spec sheet.

Rockford Fosgate® - T112D4

Here is a link to my amp I'm running on the subs

PA1200.1 Monoblock Monoblock Subwoofer Car Amplifier from Polk Audio

Here is a link for the amp I'm running to the other 10 speakers in the car that I am running for my highs and mid range. I am running two of these amps.

PA500.4 (4/3/2 channels) 4/3/2 stereo car amplifier from Polk Audio
 

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That's pretty much what I always did when I was younger and had money to spend on car audio. I always ran my subs on one channel per speaker and never bridged the amp. At one point I had a 1200 watt Pioneer amp pushing a pair of Punch 12's throw a set of home made low pass filters.
 
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