[hochness]

Hello all,
I'm getting my engine rebuilt, but can't afford the additional cost to get Forged parts that some have suggested.

I am however getting what's called an RV cam (suggested by mechanic) as well as Porting and Polishing the stock PI heads.

I've read on here that I should get new valve springs. Can I expect the rebuild to come with new springs or should I ask for aftermarket springs?

Also, what can I expect as far as HP and Torque with the rebuild.
Here's what I currently have.

2000GT
Automatic
Long Tube Headers
Typhoon Intake
75mm TB & Plenum
4.10 gears
Shift Kit

After rebuild add the following to the above:
RV Cam
Ported & Polished Heads

Thanks,

Sam

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

dont get an "rv" cam a Mustang is NOT an SUV and dont waste your money on "port n' polish", unless your making over 400hp...use the port/polish money towards something the 4.6 really needs, which is good rods and pistons......

 

[hochness]

So what's wrong with a RV cam?

I talked to the mechanic (actually a different one) about the RV cam and he told me that it isn't going to give me any additional HP but more torque on the low end. His exact words were, when you hammer down the pedal it's gonna take off harder and will change the sound a little at WOT.

As far as the P&P, he said that the polish would help a little with MPG, but the porting would not really make much of a difference unless I"m going for 1/10 of a second gains.

Going back to the cam, what is your reasoning for disliking the RV cam?

Thanks,
Sam

 

[RandyStinchcomb]

well, 1st off anyone who refers to camshaft selection as "get an rv cam" is still living in the 60's and wouldn't be allowed anywhere near my car wth tools...second, you have to buy 2 camshafts so make damn-sure the cam you select is right for what you want the car to-do, as you dont want to get the wrong cams and have to-do this twice...... also "rv" cams tend to run outta' breath @5k and the 4.6 cammer loves to rev, so you'll want a cam that will make power from @3500 to 6500(or more) and an "rv" camshaft won't do that and I'm not sure anyone even makes an "rv" camshaft for the Modulars:headscratch:.....
new valve springs are not always required when doing a cam swap, that will depend on the cams you select....and again save the port n' polish money and buy some good rods and pistons as they ARE the weak-link in these engines...doing any kind of intake port work to the heads will slow down the intake velocity thru the mainfold and head and kill-off any low end power and no real gains will be seen on the exhaust side either, now I do recommend a good 5 angle valve job and maybe cleaning-up of the bowl area, but thats it....camshaft selection, port work, intake mainfold need tobe a proper balance to make HP & TQ and IF you miss the mark just the slightest bit, performance, driveability and economy will suffer.......

 

[hochness]

Hey,

I called the shop and talked to a different tech and he told me that basically the p&p was a waste of money, so I cancelled that.

He also told me that the RV cam was going to hurt my upper/highway driving which is what I do on a daily basis. He stated that if he was me, he'd leave the stock cam in the car and get the computer flashed.

I've already go the PI heads since it's a 2000 and I've got a Typhoon intake with a 75mm TB & Plenum. I'm thinkink that maybe I"ve done all that I can do for now.

If I wanted to do the tune or reflashing (excuse my iggnorance) myself, how would I go about doing that?

Thanks,
Sam

 

[tripleblack]

Cams

Forget the truck cam, Randy is right, it doesn't match the nature of a SOHC GT motor at all.

The difference in price between stock parts vs forged is probably about the same as the cost for the extra machine work on the heads. Frankly, if you have to choose between a forged bottom end and some extra flow from the heads that the motor won't be able to use anyway, go with the higher quality parts.

Springs and retainers might be needed depending on the camshaft you select. Big cams need stronger springs.

I'm with Randy as regards your mechanic - he's just not up on the new mod motors. You might want to shop around for another builder.

I suspect you have both a monetary constraint AND a time constraint regarding how long your car can be down. If you have to go back into the heads and intake further down the line, its a lot easier to do THAT than replace a block that gets trashed if a stock rod gives up the ghost.

If you can hold off with the build and save up enough money to do the whole engine at the same time, fine, but don't shortchange the base of the whole motor for some bragging rights up top.

Update: OK, you posted while I was working on this one.

I would recommend a mild street cam like the Comp 262 grinds.

Get a custom tune. With all the mods and work you are doing, you need to have the tune checked out and tweaked on that newly rebuilt motor. You're getting a wild mix of advice from those folks. I like the new guy better than the RV cam dude.

Its hard to do the tuning yourself without a lot of expensive equipment (tuner, wideband O2 setup like the one from Innovate, etc).

 

[taylorsmustang]

summit has a forged kits for 879.60 here is the link http://www.summitracing.com/search/.../make/ford/model/mustang/engine-size/4-6l-281

 

[car5car]

What is your estimate $/HP gain?
Let me guess, 200?
Are you ready to spend $1000 to gain 5 HP?