Ford Mustang Forum banner

2000 mustang GT cranks, doesn't start. theft light binding

3160 Views 7 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  devreeze
2000 mustang GT cranks, doesn't start. theft light blinking

My 2000 mustang GT randomly started acting up. i recently changes the clutch assembly and drove it a couple of days after. everything working fine.(don't know if that has any reason to this problem)

but now it just cranks, but doesn't start. the cluster has all dashes and the theft light is blinking. i did the cluster diagnostic and got code D262 (missing scp message). My OB2 scanner gets an error message when connected. I suspect the PCM and cluster are not connecting.

I read up on some relating threads, but can't seem to find one with the same absolute problems.

I have checked all BJB & CJB fuses with a multimeter, they are all good.
All the ground cables have been cleaned and checked.

I don't seem to get voltage with key on at fuse F2-2 & F2-8, I changed the ignition switch module and it has not changed.

I would really appreciate help on this!i am clueless how to proceed! Thanks!:)
See less See more
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Test fuse F2.34 with the key on.

If no power we need to suspect something in the ignition switch.

If power, then look towards the CCRM or main Battery junction box (BJB)

1999-2004 fuse panel layout:

Edit: not clueless. You seem smarter than the average bear to me.

Note this could be a ground issue but let's let the tests lead us there.
See less See more
hey wmburns,

Thanks for the reply.

F2-24 has 12+Volt at on key.

F2-2 & F2-8 don't have 12+V at on key.
I have additionally checked the ground wires on the engine block and all 3 terminals on radiotor frame, they all check good with +/- 0.3 Omh. i have cleaned them and put silicone grease on them.

I have started to pin out the CCRM. from the diagram i see that white-lightblue wire from F2-34 goes to pin#13.

pin#13 does not have 12+volt at on key.
See less See more
F2-34 has 12+Volt at on key.
If power at F2.34, check the CCRM itself and the CCRM ground.

There's a large black wire with a white stripe near the battery. It's a single pin connector that supplies ground to the CCRM and PCM. Om some Mustangs there are two wires on one side connecting to a single wire on the other. Start there checking to see if that connector has come loose.

Not a bad idea to Ohm out the black wires at the CCRM back to battery negative.

You don't have power at F2.2 and F2.8 because the CCRM isn't latching.

OBTW, CCRM pin #13 is supplied directly from fuse F2.34. So IMO you need to go back and double check your work as a wild goose chase my be in your future.
See less See more
I meant F2-34, sorry for the typo.

Can't seem to find the black/white strip wire.
Which pin does is connect to, so i can look from there.

I will start to pin out the grounds at the CCRM to the negative pole with the multi meter this afternoon.

I changed the F2-34 fuse to a different 20amp fuse, still no power on pin #13

Is Pin#24 supposed to have 12+volt at all times? It does not have any voltage.

thanks again for the help
See less See more

I have bridged CCRM pin#13 with a fused 20amp 12+Volt wire.
theft light has stopped blinking and cluster displays the normal odometer number.
the car still only turns over, starts :). it does not stay started.
I also seem to here the fuel pump prime at key on as it should.

I have double checked the F2-34 fuse, it is good.
I find it very strange that pin #13 would not get voltage.

I wil start following the F2-34 fuse wire to CCRM pin#13 wire to see if there is something wrong.facepalm2.gif
See less See more
A couple of things. I remember once helping someone with a problem where a circuit was not being powered. The person insisted that the fuse was good. It turned out to be the fuse was not inserted correctly. On one side the spade lug was outside of the clamp. Easy fix once the fuse was correctly inserted.

On another case, the person "looked" at the wrong fuse. Apparently they got confused looking upside down. When the correct fuse was pulled it turned out to be blown. Easy fix.

In another case I helped someone that turned out to have a PUSHED pin in the CCRM connector.

One of the tests that I would do is to disconnect the battery negative. Measure the Ohm resistance between CCRM pin #13 and the OUTPUT side of F2.34. This should ring out just the wire path between the fuse and the CCRM. Should be low.

Finally the wiring diagram indicate the circuit passes through connector C214 (pin#6) located on the "kick panel" right hand side. The wire color is WH/LB. IMO this is the most likely place to find a break in the wire path should one exist.

Confirm that when you monitor power at fuse F2.34 the power comes on and off with the ignition switch.

You could also try injecting +12 volts into the output side of F2.34 to see if that latches the CCRM. I suspect that when the CCRM latches you will hear it.

OBTW, good idea to power jump CCRM pin #13. You must know how to read a wiring diagram.
See less See more
Finally had time to work on the car this weekend.
I found out the wire between OUTPUT side of F2.34 and Pin #6 of connector C214 was bad, no 12+V the connector. I was a hassle to route a new wire through the harness, but it worked. The car started up immediately and is running great.

I very much appreciate the info and tips wmburns!

Now i can finally go have fun with the car again!

See less See more
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.