ok so my 2000 v6, eleven months ago bought the car. First day crank no start, no fuel to shrader valve. Dealer towed, pulled off roll back and car started fine. maybe four or five times since have had the crank no start but would eventually start. Last week left me sit at work, went up checked fuel pump fuse under hood (good) could hear ccrm click ( assumed good) checked voltage into inertia ( 12 volts) could not find a numbering order for pins on plug under bumper so did not test there, pulled the FPDM and put 12 volts to pin 10 and grd to 3 ( sparked but could not tell if pump kicked on, outside noisy enviornment) tried car and just cranked, tried again and started up. turned the car off and on about 8 times fired up quickly everytime. Brought the car home this morning, went out this afternoon started car drove 15 miles picked up my son, drove 7 miles to gas station( no problems anywhere along the way with stalling or bogging down, ran just like it always does. Pumped 20 in gas got in and car started but was not getting fuel, just chugged out what was in the system then crank no start, five or six tries car started so i pulled away from pumps toward parking spot, hit gas and it bogged out and died soon after i hit the parking spot. so my first instinct was to jump the fuel pump again, however this time there was no spark when i applied the hot to pin 10. Shouldn't it have still sparked the same as before even if the pump didn't work when applying the power ? I am lost now because i cannot understand how adding fuel would have stopped the pump from running.....so i am looking for any advice on what it could be, please
2000 v6 fuel pump issue
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thanks, when it was down the first time appeared that some of the pins on the plug under the rear bumper had a whitish residue on them. My car is sitting out of town so will not be able to get to it until thursday or friday. I just really don't want to drop the tank and replace the pump if thats not what it is. And still has me stumped that adding fuel lost the pump again. If there were problems with the pump would this be something i would have noticed during driving? ( lack of power when giving gas or bogging out on idle ?) when i go down if i cant start it where it sits i'm having it towed to a buddy's garage and will drop the tank if neccesary. could the corrosion on the pins under the bumper possibly explain why i didn't get any spark when i applied power at the FPDM plug?
also i have spent hours and hours online trying to find a numbering order for the pins on the plug under the rear bumper and have yet to find anything. Cant tell the colors of the wires without cutting open the harness plug looks like this
xxx
xxxx
would you possibly know which order the pins are numbered?
xxx
xxxx
would you possibly know which order the pins are numbered?
Hey guys, not sure if this would be considered a valid suggestion or not, but I will pitch in anyway. Sometimes when the obvious looks to be in tip-top shape, we need to examine the less obviously for issues. I immediately thought of a faulty inertia switch when I read that the car was towed. I am assuming the car was flat-bedded, and released backwards off the bed. After the car was pulled off, it started. Makes sense to me to check this switch. Not sure if this is a problematic component for these cars. However it is electrical, and controls the fuel pump. It is also mechanical. Inside is a tiny magnet, and if there is a front side collision, this inertia switch is activated by the magnet and ball breaking loose from one another by forward force. Under normal conditions, a sudden stop in forward motion, like a collision, would release the magnetized ball. It travels forward and makes contact with leads to a switch. This shuts the entire fuel system down, for safety reasons, since we have fuel injected cars. I am reckoning that this would be something to look at. Maybe its defective. Maybe its been damaged by some sort of shock load. Magnets tend to loose there magnetic properties if they are shock loaded. Who knows, it could have been shocked at the factory. Or just a bad one that was manufactured out of the batch. Its usually found in the trunk behind the ginger bread, driver side. This inertia switch does has a manual reset button as well that could be faulty. Next time you get your car running and you drive it around, come to a hard stop in a safe area. You don't have to screech tires or anything.If the car doesn't shut off, shut the ignition switch off yourself. Restart to test for ignition. If no start, try to rock car in forward back ward motion to maybe re-engage the magnetic switch, or play with the manual button. Let me know what you think. Hope this helps.
I am pretty sure this works on the same principle as conventional, domestic air bag sensors.
went yesterday and cleaned the pins from connector behind the bumper which i thought could be the issue, but still no luck. just cranks and wont fire and still can't hear the pump. I am having it towed tomorrow to somewhere that i can actually get it up on stands and look at it. Going to start by seeing if there is power coming to the plug under the bumper, if i have power there i'm probably going to drop the tank to see if i can find any loose wires, and going to get a pump to have just in case. Also noted yesterday that during crank sometimes theft light is steady on while cranking and other times does not come on while cranking, so not sure why that is. I will post again tomorrow night to let you know if i get it running and what issue i might find. I could still use help in the numbering of the pins on the plug under the bumper if anyone knows? i can't make out the wire colors to the plug so not sure where to check for power to the pump
Okay man, so i think I got this issue resolved. If your Anti-Theft light is steady staying on its definitely an alarm related issue. My dad has this issue about two days ago on his '99 Explorer. It would crank, but no fuel. It has been doing other odd things too like not properly unlocking the doors by key fob and also not properly timing the courtesy light to shut-off in the truck properly. We found that there is a valet switch on the side kick panel near the hood release lever. Its a simple push button style. Turn ignition on, and hold in that button for like 3-5 seconds. Turn key and the vehicle should start. This bypasses the alarm and allows voltage for ignition, fuel etc. A tripped or stubborn alarm system prevents this. I am not sure if this will work for you, but I feel pretty confident that it might work for you and the other guy on here. These generation vehicles have problematic alarms. It is not to be confused with the factory installed keyless entry PATS system. These problematic alarms were installed at the dealership as an added option, not the factory. The alarm itself was manufactured by CODE Alarm, inc. and was just re-branded to be distributed as a genuine Ford part as part of a contract agreement. It was supplemental to the PATS system. You'll know if you have one of these alarms if you have the red blinking status light on your dash and if you have the side kick panel valet button. This button will bypass the entire alarm system and should start the car normally. Its been said that hese CODE alarm units fail over time, and cause erratic behavior. In your case, no start. The alarm module may have to be replaced. I contributed to a thread here:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...7-ford-mustang-factory-alarm-not-working.html
In my case with my '97 Mustang I identified my unit simply by the FCC number on the BACK of the the plastic case of the unit. Its on a label with switch settings as well. The encase main module or "brain" is under the dash on the drivers side, and is zip-tied up into wire bundle native tot he car. Its a 4x6 black box with Ford logo on it. If memory serves me right, the good news is these are plug and play style. I thought I saw a myriad of different models on ebay, and a replacement should plug right into the connectors you already have. I really hope this helps. I will also let everyone know what the final verdict is on my dads Explorer.
P.S. If you have an alarm system like this that works fine and you have no remote for it, you can get the remotes you need and by, again, finding you particular FCC number on the back of that box (main module) under the dash.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...7-ford-mustang-factory-alarm-not-working.html
In my case with my '97 Mustang I identified my unit simply by the FCC number on the BACK of the the plastic case of the unit. Its on a label with switch settings as well. The encase main module or "brain" is under the dash on the drivers side, and is zip-tied up into wire bundle native tot he car. Its a 4x6 black box with Ford logo on it. If memory serves me right, the good news is these are plug and play style. I thought I saw a myriad of different models on ebay, and a replacement should plug right into the connectors you already have. I really hope this helps. I will also let everyone know what the final verdict is on my dads Explorer.
P.S. If you have an alarm system like this that works fine and you have no remote for it, you can get the remotes you need and by, again, finding you particular FCC number on the back of that box (main module) under the dash.
Didn't see any alarm button, still could not get it started but was unable to put it in the air to look at it so just had it towed to a garage. Still convinced that the pump is not getting juice somewhere between the driver module and pump, I'll post after I hear from the garage
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