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Discussion Starter #1
2001 mustang 3.8 previous owner added some mods, unsure of them all. K&N cold air intake, short bbk headers, converted to true duel exhaust, has higher end suspension all around, he had set up for racing and i believe he was using a 4.6 and put the 3.8 back when he sold it. i notice it he's remnants of what looks like a hydro boost brake system ( i think, what it looks like from my research ) has few other little things under the hood makes me think so as well like xtra plug inns hooked to nothing. any way that's the back ground it just blew a head gasket. bin looking at a 4.6 out of a 2006 interceptor... rear ended so scrapped it. 43k on motor 500.00 i put money on it and am going to get it asap, never done a swap i could use advice and list of parts needed and how to.. i work on everything so i am mechanically inclined. advice greatly appreciated,btw only car between me my wife n kiddies, lol not practical ( got a good deal so i thought ) so I'm trying to do it as timely and efficient as possible for now
 

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it would be almost impossible for the car to be swapped from a 4.6 back to 3.8 as the ecu and wiring harnesses are different, therein lies your challenge, you basically need the entire driveline of the 4.6 to do the swap...so unless you have a donor car you are probably better off just getting the 3.8 running "right"
 
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it would be almost impossible for the car to be swapped from a 4.6 back to 3.8 as the ecu and wiring harnesses are different, therein lies your challenge, you basically need the entire driveline of the 4.6 to do the swap...so unless you have a donor car you are probably better off just getting the 3.8 running "right"
+1

You need: Engine, transmission, wiring harness, computer, gauge cluster that matches the computer, rear-end and about 50 other misc parts.

You basically need an entire donor GT to do the swap.

The P71 4.6 is a dog anyways. They are not power improved and move like like a brick.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2001 mustang 3.8 to 4.6

well that's unfortunate, seems like a real hassle... what do you think it will cost me roughly to repair blown head gasket? assuming the head itself is not cracked, but as long as ID be having it apart maybe put a 4.2 stroker Kit...?? costly? ill b doing the work myself
 
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You can put the bottom end of a 4.2 F150 if you want a 4.2L.

You can find those bottom ends for less than $300.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
new guy 3.8 2001 mustang

would it need to b same year as mine to use the engine from the f150? thanks for all the information
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
i thought some were also for sure like you say, puzzles me is there is this electrical unit that is attached 3/4 of the way up the brake pedal under the dash, it has a harness and a plug that is taped up but nothing hooked to it, seems it has arm on the unit that when pressed would make connection with another part... idk i am assuming its hydro boost system just not set up, and the part on the firewall under hood is factory, but has a u bolt looking deal screwed onto the fender near it, and a hole size of a dime on plastic left side below steering wheel, by where the wire harness for door goes through to the body. so many things i dont know about the car, also came with a diablo tuner. any way got a 3.8L from same year mustang, 500.00 has 60k on it, has any one here had issues with these cars having problems shifting into reverse? and hard shifting seems to not go into place smoothly, sometimes will not at all untill i run it througs few other gears holding clutch down, has a centerforce clutch, seems to have a whine, and a slight humming while driving... fear it may b a wheel bearing and my fly wheel,
by the way this site is awesome you guys rock, most knowledge of mustangs in one place ever!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
also, if any body has a street scene of some other type of front bumper for sale or there trying to get rid of, within reasonable distance... :bigthumbsup be very interested, ( mine was destroyed:cursing: some ###hole didnt properly secure a full size sheet of plywood... deer hunting so no room for err. doin 70mph, was unpleasant) just let me know, thanks guys:thanks:
 

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Sound like under the dash you are describing a factory anti theft module or maybe an Aftermarket alarm box.

Hydro boost about the only difference is simply power steering lines going to the booster vs vacuum lines. That and he lack of he huge vacuum canister under the fluid reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well i got a 3.8 same as original to drop in, has 3,600 miles so almost new. was wondering if there is anything i should do to prevent another head gasket from going out on me, have had several 3.8's and they all had this happen, the others were GM motors, but all too familiar... is this a common issue for this year of mustang? what OTHER issues there may be if any known that i can take preventative measures to avoid, new higher end head gasket to put in before putting motor in etc. if necessary, i like the 3.8 engines seems i have just had a long streak of poor luck with them lol, thanks guys :?:
 

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not a prevalent issue on a 2001.. that being said.. it will be if you overheat the engine.. as long as you fill the coolant correctly, you probably wont have that problem.. that's basically all you have to do to prevent head gasket failure.
 

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Make sure you always run distilled water in the coolant. Tap water may corroded and weaken the head gaskets.

Reverse is non synchronized so it's not always going to go right in. About all Ford T5 and T45 are like that. If it does not want to go in reverse, put it in first and move forward and inch then try again.

If you are having problems with other gears then check your cable adjustment. Centerforce makes clutch sets for V6? It is complete overkill for a stock V6 and will just cause faster wear on your driveline and suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i always used water from the pump when adding to coolant defenitally explains the last 3.8 head gasket, this one looked perfect since i got the car 3 months ago, i check all fluids few times a week and noticed 2 days after i had checked and oil was about half quart low, never burned or leaked till then, and i checked the coolant and it over flowed a bit, i took some of the coolant out and it was real dirty brown tint, but no overheating on the guage, wasn't much warning, is it possible the seller did something to cover it up long enough to sell (and i think i may take that clutch out now)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
forgot to mention, the car isnt stock... the person who i got it from had bought it from a guy who put the mods on, and he dragged with it, has K&N cold air intake, dual exhaust with BBK short headers,diablo tuner, 18 in rims with 245/35 i believe, was able to light the tires up all the way through 3rd without a problem, has perfomance shocks and beefed up brake lines, and ball joints. the person i got it from did not even know what all was done, i have been discovering most of them on my own
 
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forgot to mention, the car isnt stock... the person who i got it from had bought it from a guy who put the mods on, and he dragged with it, has K&N cold air intake, dual exhaust with BBK short headers,diablo tuner, 18 in rims with 245/35 i believe, was able to light the tires up all the way through 3rd without a problem, has perfomance shocks and beefed up brake lines, and ball joints. the person i got it from did not even know what all was done, i have been discovering most of them on my own
So we have the following:
K&N CAI (also known as a hot air intake. You probably lose 2-3hp from this)
BBK Headers (zero gains)
Dual exhaust (might gain enough to offset the hot air intake above)
Diablo tuner (canned tune is good for 5-10hp)
18" wheels (extra rotational mass kills whatever gains you made with the tuner)

So you have basically a car that is as fast as a stock V6.

Not trying to be negative just realistic. I owned an '01 V6 for two and half years. I know exactly how fast they are stock, and mildly modded. It is nothing to write home about.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok good stuff to know, all new to me. so any suggestions on a brand or type of clutch kit that would be more suitable? and im suprised to learn that the mods he added do nothing almost gone the opposite direction, i am curious why you refer to the K&N as hot air intake? and the headers do nothing also, is that because they are BBK or just that short headers do nothing for hp? and what can i do to actually have real hp gains?
 
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ok good stuff to know, all new to me. so any suggestions on a brand or type of clutch kit that would be more suitable? and im suprised to learn that the mods he added do nothing almost gone the opposite direction, i am curious why you refer to the K&N as hot air intake? and the headers do nothing also, is that because they are BBK or just that short headers do nothing for hp? and what can i do to actually have real hp gains?
SPEC is a good brand clutch. Remember to also get an OEM Ford throwout bearing as all of the aftermarket ones are junk.

The K&N intake is a hot air intake because it places the filter in the engine bay. A true CAI would place the filter in the fenderwell (much like the snorkel on the stock intake. Add that to the fact that it doesn't even replace half of the intake piping it is really a $300 reusable filter. The $50 K&N drop in would be a better performing option.

Shorty headers do next to nothing on 90% of cars out there. The stock manifolds flow plenty of exhaust and are already stainless steel tubing.

Real HP gains are hard to come by on 3.8s without going to some form of forced induction. The biggest HP gain for "cheap" would be to retrofit the intake from a 96-98 Windstar van on to your Mustang. It is composite (less heat soak) and the runners are much more efficient. The intake is worth ~10hp and ~15lb-ft. The gains are throughout the power band.
 
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