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The point of this post is to show that you don't necessarily need wild setups to make decent power on the street or strip, but you do need to plan things out to meet your goals.

I had no horsepower goals at all, I just told my builder / tuner (Justin Burcham at JPC) that I wanted a mid-10 second car with great street manners, since it's my dd.

As many of you may know, I've been running a Procharger D1SC for about a year and a half at about 500 rwhp, on the stock engine, transmission, etc. Now came the time to plan for some upgrades. I solicited advice from many right here on AFM and am thankful to the many who responded.

Then came time, in January, to talk to JPC about my plans and go from there. They thought it wouldn't take much more to reach the 10's since I already had a good supercharger and suspension setup. Of course, we would need a forged short block, and chose a basic Livernois setup, with new aluminum block, 12 cc Mahle pistons, pins, and rings, about 9.7:1 cr, Manley h-beam rods, a Kellogg crank, and Clevite bearings. We used a Melling oil pump with steel billet gears to help avoid future failures there.

Once that was settled on, we moved on to better breathing. We chose RGR heads (Rich Groh Racing). We went with a set of his "stage 2" 3v heads with full CNC, hand port & polish jobs, plus stainless intake and super alloy exhaust valves. All valves are 1 mm oversize from stock. The heads flow 297 cfm intake and 204 exhaust, I believe. Also settled on Kooks long tubes with a catted x-pipe and Bassani axle-backs. On top of everything sits a JPC Racing intake manifold with the same Steeda CMDP's underneath it that I bought new in 2005.

Cams are Comp Cams 127350's, very streetable, no noticeable idle, and we also used high-load valve springs and titanium retainers. Nothing exotic here, especially with the cams. VVT was retained, only new springs were required.

Then a new TCI Super StreetFighter transmission was installed with matching torque converter (3400 stall). This transmission has billet servos and a new M300 hardened steel input shaft. The stock 5R55S input shaft is a known weak link in these transmissions so that's been fortified. A Dynotech 3.5" aluminum driveshaft was added, and shifting is done with TCI's ratchet shifter.

On to the fuel system: Justin highly recommended a return-style fuel system, as did [email protected] and sqidd. JPC put together a nice system using what may be the last, or one of the last for a while, Fore triple pump return style fuel hats, which took a while to obtain. Three Walboro 255 lph pumps reside in the hat, and Fore relays, a Fore F2 regulator, and heavy gauge wiring take care of the rest.

In order to keep the transmission cool, they put in a secondary transmission cooler along with a CSR transmission vent / catch can to prevent transmission fluid from running over onto the track. At the same time, a K&N filter was installed on the UPR catch can and another on the valve cover to handle crankcase breathing.

Everything is held together with ARP studs and bolts, t-clamps, etc. The Procharger's intercooler was remounted upside down to change the MAF sensor location from the cold outlet to the warm inlet, and the sensor itself was replaced with a Big Air unit in a new welded-in slot.

The throttle body remains stock, as JPC has never shown through all their testing that any other throttle body enhances flow or horsepower in blow-through type systems.

I finally also changed the ring and pinion for a 3.73 with a TruTrack, from the 3.31's I've had all this time. The low profile LPW girdle buttoned things up and adds some stability, and I welded and braced the stock axle tubes.

I've already had BMR tubular lca's and their adjustable uca, with welded in lca relocation brackets. I just finished adding rear sway bar relocation brackets so I can fit my 15" drag tires, and hopefully will make it to the track soon.

Oh - almost forgot: on JPC's Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer (which I haven't heard of before) this combo pulled 593 rwhp and 494 rwtq on 93 octane, and 678 rwhp and 547 rwtq on 109 octane. Both runs reached a peak of 18 psi, no pulley changes between the two, and redline has been set at 7500.

Interesting note is that on the race tune, it's making 600 rwhp by 5000 rpm's at barely more than 12 psi of boost. And on the street tune it's over 500 rwhp from 5000 rpm's onward.

One thing I should mention - on both tunes and dyno runs, the torque converter refused to stay locked up no matter what the tuner tried, so a good amount of horsepower and torque was definitely lost because full-throttle runs were made
with an unlocked converter. Guess I'll be shopping for a new one already...power would have been a good bit higher with a locked-up converter, or of course a manual transmission. Or a different dyno, who knows, too many variables to put much stock in any numbers other than timeslips; even then you have plenty of variables.

So, yes, if you add everything up it was kinda expensive. But is there really anything exotic in this combo? No, there's not. Lots of planning involved, and seeking and taking advice from those who know more than me! To those, I thank you.

Timeslips to come!
 

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Exotic? Put a naked brazillian porn star and you can call this a wrap.
 

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Sweet car hubkap!

When you say kind of expensive, do you mean like Hitler was "kind of" a bad guy:gringreen:laugh::winks

Also, you could have saved yourself some time by simply typing, "I have one of the baddest auto GTs on the planet!"

Mid 10's! That is Sick!!! I can't even imagine what a car that fast would feel like. Hell, my car feels fast to me.:laugh:

Have you drove it yet? I mean DROVE it yet? Can/would you even really get on it on the streets?

Congrats! You earned it, now Enjoy:bigthumbsup

-Chris
 

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Hey.... I thought you told me it was the Delete Plates that gave you all that power. What gives? :gringreen:laugh::winks
 

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Solid robust build and Justin is an impressive fellow to deal with....very personable too.:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup

Waiting for those slips.................
 

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That looks sick. I have an auto and was planning on the exact same setup you have. Can't wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sweet car hubkap!

Have you drove it yet? I mean DROVE it yet? Can/would you even really get on it on the streets?

-Chris
Thanks Chris. No, I don't get on it on the streets.

Hey.... I thought you told me it was the Delete Plates that gave you all that power. What gives? :gringreen:laugh::winks
I'm pretty sure the delete plates made most of the difference :winks

Solid robust build and Justin is an impressive fellow to deal with....very personable too.:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup

Waiting for those slips.................
Thanks Steve...you got it right about Justin, I'm proud to have worked with him now. He keeps checking up on me, great after-service CS.

Time slips will come as soon as work permits, otherwise I wasted my time :yup:
 

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A very well thought out build with a great combination of parts! I wish I could hear that beast sing @ 6500+rpm! Did you install the 3.800" Kellogg crank to increase displacement to 302ci?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great results Jaime! Engine bay pics look super clean.

So whats the deal with the Fore hats?
Thanks Brian! You were a big part of this you know, I owe you :winks

The Northern Virginia Mustang Club actually convinced me to come to my first meeting tomorrow, which happens to be a car show held at the same dealership where I ordered and bought this car new, and haven't returned to since I picked it up. They think I stand a chance to win the "Best Engine" trophy, but I'll be happy to eat free hot dogs all day...nice break from the USO tent I worked at a fair most of today.

I'm not sure I should explain the Fore stuff here so I'll pm you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A very well thought out build with a great combination of parts! I wish I could hear that beast sing @ 6500+rpm! Did you install the 3.800" Kellogg crank to increase displacement to 302ci?
Thanks buddy!

No, I think it's 3.750" for a total of 298 ci. Still slightly undersquare but still wants to rev :bigthumbsup
 

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Very nice build! Good luck on your quest for mid 10's.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Very nice build! Good luck on your quest for mid 10's.
Thanks friend! Nice looking stang BTW! :bigthumbsup

Now off to my first ever show...hope to win some sort of engine trophy but will be happy with hot dogs :winks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That looks sick. I have an auto and was planning on the exact same setup you have. Can't wait.
I couldn't wait either, it was a longggg time in the works! 6 months not including prior planning :yup:
 

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. . . if you add everything up it was kinda expensive . . .

Lots of planning involved, and seeking and taking advice from those who know more than me! . . .
Awesome car hubkap and thanks for the write-up as promissed!

So I have to ask -- can you put a number on that "kind expensive" ? Just wondering what kind of dollars we are talking about here so I can work that in to my budget planning! :grinroll:

About the planning -- I am "planning" that someday I might go with a mild supercharger to get the car into the 450 rwhp ballpark without any internal mods; so I am trying to stay with mods that would still be used in that situation -- like aluminum driveshaft, headers, catted x-pipe, etc. . . . so I guess the idea would be to look at the final set-up, list out what is needed for that, and pick away at those things little by little until eventually the big S/C day comes.

Is the car still your DD and how is that working out?
 

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Awesome car hubkap and thanks for the write-up as promissed!
Thanks!

So I have to ask -- can you put a number on that "kind expensive" ? Just wondering what kind of dollars we are talking about here so I can work that in to my budget planning! :grinroll:
Car cost me $32k new, which included a $5k buyer premium in order to get a dealer with an open order slot for an '05 back then. I've since invested (not correct word - "spent" is better) about 150% more than that into the car....

About the planning -- I am "planning" that someday I might go with a mild supercharger to get the car into the 450 rwhp ballpark without any internal mods; so I am trying to stay with mods that would still be used in that situation -- like aluminum driveshaft, headers, catted x-pipe, etc. . . . so I guess the idea would be to look at the final set-up, list out what is needed for that, and pick away at those things little by little until eventually the big S/C day comes.
I can dig out all my old receipts, but basically, in order, it was CMDP and tune plus handheld ($600?), then suspension mods listed in profile (maybe $1000?), then the wheels and tires ($2200), then Procharger, fuel pumps, and injectors ($7000), then the big money this time around. I put traction ahead of power.

Is the car still your DD and how is that working out?
Yes, it's the only car I have so most definitely is my DD! Couldn't be more fun! Just need to be light-footed :winks
 

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The Northern Virginia Mustang Club actually convinced me to come to my first meeting tomorrow, which happens to be a car show held at the same dealership where I ordered and bought this car new. They think I stand a chance to win the "Best Engine" trophy...
Would you believe a Mercury Marauder won best engine at this show today?? I wasn't impressed with it at all. He had a dyno slip that showed he made 387 rwhp and insisted he runs 10.3's in the quarter mile... what a joke. :nogrinner
 
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You ever talk to your tuner about water/meth kit? Just curious if that topic was covered. 109octane is expensive and you could run the race tune all the time. Not that you really need anymore horsepower, but who am I to say. You car is bad to the focking bone by the way.
 

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Thanks friend! Nice looking stang BTW! :bigthumbsup

Now off to my first ever show...hope to win some sort of engine trophy but will be happy with hot dogs :winks
Good luck, and let us know how you did at the car show?
 
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