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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I have a 2005 GT convertible. I bought the car dead stock with 3:23 gears. When I bought it I would say it was quick but not crazy, like any other mustang. Could chirp 2nd but that is it. I bought the car with 90,000 miles or 150K. Since owning it I have put 1500 miles on her in two years. She is only driven 4 months a year.

So I made the move to add a kenne bell 2.6L supercharger kit. 10 PSI pulley with the liquid intercooler. I did the install myself, took 21 hours and was quite fun. I should say I bought the kit used. I sent the blower to Kenne Bell to have it checked and a new pulley was added and bought almost all new parts to do the install. I added the brisk plugs as recommended and the colder thermostat. The tune was done remotely by DB performance in Minnesota. I also had it re-checked here in Vancouver to verify it was a solid tune. Mopac a local racing shop said it was good, even a little hot. Hot means fast in my mind. car runs on 94 octane only.

I would say the car felt no faster than stock. Again could chirp 2nd but that it. I thought well it has slow ass gears and the traction bars I added, so I added ford performance 3:73's. Yes it is better but I figured it would be scary fast. Kenne bell claims my kit should be 470+ to my wheels. I can say without question that I do not feel faster than stock.

I should also say I have an offroad H pipe with brand new Borla Touring axle backs. I had flowmaster American Thunder but it was too loud. I would say the exhaust sounds ****** still. At WOT its a dumptruck and when I let off it bumbles and pops and sounds almost like an import. Makes me think something is wrong.

OK so I thought maybe I was just off and out to lunch on how 500HP should feel. So I went to misson (a local drag strip) and ran her down the track. Yeah not good. I ran a 14.04 @ 102 mph. I launched fine since it barely breaks the tires. Chirped second and ran down straight and I shifted smooth and fast. I was in 4th when I crossed. I threw her in neutral and right away the check engine light comes on. When I check it I got a miss in Cylinder 8.

According to motor trend a stock 2005 GT is 13.5 - 14 sec depending on driver and conditions. SO I've spent $5 - 10,000 to be slower than stock...... [email protected]$t!!!!!

Someone, anyone help me. Why do I not have any power?

Based on the misfire. I thought Fuel, air and spark. When I did the install I reused the ignition coils. Today I ordered the MSD blaster ones on AM. Would old warn coils rob my power? Like steal it all?

I also notices today (day after my drag run) that my intercooler reservoir is still and not pumping. Pump is on but no fluid movement. (air in the lines???)

Car has the boost a pump (bought new) and I would say it is a PIG on fuel now.

PLEASE HELP

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should add that I do have a boost gauge and wideband.

Boost gauge shows 20 vaccum off throttle and 10 psi on WOT

wideband is 11ish at WOT, 15ish at idle or cruising and goes to 17 ish off throttle
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought of one more thing. Those of you with a twin screw SC, can you hear the whine over your exhaust? With the offroad pipe i hear no whine at all. Is that another issue or Just a loud exhaust on a vert blocking out the SC whine?

I look at my belt and see no signs of wear or slipping
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What were your times and HP-Torque before and after the installation?
I've not had it on a dyno. Nor have I run it on the track until this past friday.

With that said though a Kenne Bell kit on that car should run high 12's from what I hear and read. It also should blow 1st & 2nd apart with 3:73's. I can chirp, thats it.


I truly feel no more HP vs stock
 

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Is your vacuum bypass valve set for Valet Mode? Seriously, Kenne Bell is one of the few blowers with that option, if installed.

Stock cams? Huge cams can cause low boost because they won't open the vacuum actuated bypass valve.

Also. Kenne Bell claims the blower is really quiet.

With 3.73 gears you will feel the need for 5th gear before the end of the quarter mile. The extra shift will cost a few 10ths and gain zero mph. 3.55 gears would have been a better choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is your vacuum bypass valve set for Valet Mode? Seriously, Kenne Bell is one of the few blowers with that option, if installed.

Stock cams? Huge cams can cause low boost because they won't open the vacuum actuated bypass valve.

Also. Kenne Bell claims the blower is really quiet.

With 3.73 gears you will feel the need for 5th gear before the end of the quarter mile. The extra shift will cost a few 10ths and gain zero mph. 3.55 gears would have been a better choice.
Hey Dan, Thanks for asking. No the car is not in Valet mode. I just verified. The float moves by hand as well as under throttle.

The cams are stock.

I was nowhere near fifth on the Quarter. I was mid 4th. I wasn't going fast enough to need it.

As for the blower whine, I really do not care if I hear it as long as it works.

Any other ideas?

Thoughts on whether the ignition coils could cause this? They are stock with quite a few miles. But this is a lot of missing power.

Or fuel injector issues? So far I not thinking fuel as she is a pig after the boost a pump and injectors went in.
 

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I think you need to find a good dyno tuner and get it on a dyno to see what is going on.

With 3.73 gears, 4th is good for about 125-130 MPH so I would not expect to be using 5th in the quarter mile.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think you need to find a good dyno tuner and get it on a dyno to see what is going on.

With 3.73 gears, 4th is good for about 125-130 MPH so I would not expect to be using 5th in the quarter mile.

My plan of attack is to install the new ignition coils. While doing that I will check the gap again on the brisk plugs. From there is she is still a slug I will have to take her in to a dyno tuner/shop.

I'm at a complete loss.
 

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Yea, the KB unit with 10PSI should be giving you roughly 200 more HP at the wheels than comes stock. I wouldn't throw parts at it. Get it to a dyno . . .
 

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Just a few thoughts.

I would definitely figure out why your intercooler coolant isn't flowing. That'll cause all kinds of issues now, or down the road, if everything is getting too hot. If it's wired up anything like my 2.8 Kenne Bell kit there should be very noticeable fluid moment inside the reservoir whenever the key is on. Could be air in the lines, or perhaps a pinched hose somewhere? I remember some of the routing being tight around the front core support.

If your check engine code isn't coming back on repeatedly I would start replacing parts quite yet. I get a 'random misfire' code every once in a while, that could be similar.

If I remember correctly Kenne Bell has canned tunes available for the 2.6L kit? This may be a less expensive way of ruling out a bad tune before taking the car to a dyno. That gets expensive quick!
 

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I didn't see the part about the intercooler not flowing. OP, mine was doing the same thing. The problem was, the feed hose from the reservoir to the pump was slightly too long; it would go down below the level of the pump and loop back up to the pump. When the hose is positioned lower than the pump, air traps there. Such loops are okay AFTER the pump, as any accumulating air will be pushed through by the pump and get dissipated harmlessly in the reservoir. But, before the pump, they will cause problems.


For me, the fix was to simply pull the hose off the pump and shorten it enough that there was a direct feed from the reservoir with no loop that was lower than the pump. I had already replaced the pump, hoping that was the problem. It wasn't. I then found on the internet several folks with KBs that had the same issue with the hose and air -- apparently, the hose comes too long in the KB kit.

If your intercooler is not working, your IATs are likely so high that the computer is pulling timing. That might account for your lower power. Keeping the IATs low enough to not pull timing is hard enough on KBs with the intercooler functioning (KBs are known to run hot), so I can only imagine how bad it would be with no flow.


Another note, when I was running the canned KB tune, it ran at 450 RWHP on the dyno. I would also get an occasional 'check engine' light when I ran it hard. Since it has been dyno tuned by a local tuner, said light never came back. I'm not 100% sure it's related, but might be.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I didn't see the part about the intercooler not flowing. OP, mine was doing the same thing. The problem was, the feed hose from the reservoir to the pump was slightly too long; it would go down below the level of the pump and loop back up to the pump. When the hose is positioned lower than the pump, air traps there. Such loops are okay AFTER the pump, as any accumulating air will be pushed through by the pump and get dissipated harmlessly in the reservoir. But, before the pump, they will cause problems.


For me, the fix was to simply pull the hose off the pump and shorten it enough that there was a direct feed from the reservoir with no loop that was lower than the pump. I had already replaced the pump, hoping that was the problem. It wasn't. I then found on the internet several folks with KBs that had the same issue with the hose and air -- apparently, the hose comes too long in the KB kit.

If your intercooler is not working, your IATs are likely so high that the computer is pulling timing. That might account for your lower power. Keeping the IATs low enough to not pull timing is hard enough on KBs with the intercooler functioning (KBs are known to run hot), so I can only imagine how bad it would be with no flow.


Another note, when I was running the canned KB tune, it ran at 450 RWHP on the dyno. I would also get an occasional 'check engine' light when I ran it hard. Since it has been dyno tuned by a local tuner, said light never came back. I'm not 100% sure it's related, but might be.

MustangFaith, Awesome info. I've tried blowing on the reservoir to get the air out. I get it going but only for a min or two. Mike at Kenne Bell also mentioned the pulling timing to me but he thinks there is something else going on. Too much power missing for that to be the only issue. He said when the car is cool it would have power and as it heats up then it will pull timing.

Here is my plan of attack. Please let me know your thoughts

FIX the intercooler hose issue.
Pull plugs and regap (properly) Not sure if this was done originally when they went in. Likely getting plug burn out.
add MSP coils. Mine are tired both in the way they look and perform. Hey I added a ton of fuel, forced induction, common sense says I need to improve the spark too.
Then I will clear the error codes. reload the tune (I'm told this will allow the computer to reset and stop pulling the timing as long as the intercooler runs)

From there if she is broke off to the dynotuner she goes.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK so I just crawled under the car and I would say there is an extra 6" of hose from the pump to the reservoir. Kind of looks like a pee trap under your sink. A big U. I will take out the slack and see if she starts flowing. Bad part is there is no easy way to do this without draining the fluid.
 

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It really depends on how hot your IATs are. Supposedly, the stock tune starts pulling timing about 130ish. That's pretty low and easy to get to on a KB. But, the timing pull is "sloped," i.e. it only pulls a little at first and increases with the temperature of the IATs. So, if you are VERY high, you are going to see a lot of power reduction.


As for fixing the hose . . .I recommend sucking the fluid out of the reservoir first. That way, when you pull the hose off the pump, you'll only spill out the little bit in the hose.


As for plugs, my old ones were incorrectly gapped at .045 (the gap for stock Mustangs and mine had the KB on it) . . . when they should have been .035 (Mustangs with SCs). When I put new plugs in and gapped them correctly, I felt zero difference in performance. But, I hadn't noticed any issues prior either, so who knows. I'm not convinced the new coils will help you any. FWIW.
 

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It really depends on how hot your IATs are. Supposedly, the stock tune starts pulling timing about 130ish. That's pretty low and easy to get to on a KB. But, the timing pull is "sloped," i.e. it only pulls a little at first and increases with the temperature of the IATs. So, if you are VERY high, you are going to see a lot of power reduction.


As for fixing the hose . . .I recommend sucking the fluid out of the reservoir first. That way, when you pull the hose off the pump, you'll only spill out the little bit in the hose.


As for plugs, my old ones were incorrectly gapped at .045 (the gap for stock Mustangs and mine had the KB on it) . . . when they should have been .035 (Mustangs with SCs). When I put new plugs in and gapped them correctly, I felt zero difference in performance. But, I hadn't noticed any issues prior either, so who knows. I'm not convinced the new coils will help you any. FWIW.
Thanks for the info and the tip on draining the res first. DO you know if the computer will remember the IAT temps to keep the timing out or will it reset every time I turn the car on and off? Just trying to gauge if I need to return the computer to stock and then reload my tune so it relearns. BTW my IAT was screaming hot since I was drag racing the car. Or in my slow as time dragging ass down the track


If it is not a plug issue, Electrical issue or intercooler/tune, I am at a loss and totally screwed....
 

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Why not do a compression test while the plugs are out? Just to know?
 

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You can borrow a compression tester at some auto part stores. Google doing a test to do it correctly. Let us know before you use the new coils. Some of us wonder if you need them.
 
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