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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the second set of Autolite HT1 plugs I have gone through. The Tune shop said I need to gap them to.024 how can this be done with the design of theses plugs?:headscratch:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have them set at .033 from the Tune shop and they keep going bad. I just wanted to be sure that they were not going to bang the with a hammer.
 

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I have them set at .033 from the Tune shop and they keep going bad. I just wanted to be sure that they were not going to bang the with a hammer.
What keeps going bad with the plugs? If you are having problems with the HT1's such as porcelain damage, you probably need to run an HT0 as your engine is F/I. A gap of .030"-.032" seems to be about the norm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The car runs fine and then when I decide to get on it at high boost the car get rough at idle and runs terrible. I changed the plugs the first time and the problem was solved. It did it again a few days ago and the shop said it needed to be set (gap) differently.
 

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If you can, post some pics of the bad plugs. From what you are saying, it sounds like the plugs are being damaged from the boost. The HT1's are probably getting too hot under boost, and going south. Another thing to look at are the COP's. If you are running the stockers, this can cause issues with high boost applications also.
 

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I'm curious about the damage but .24 is way too close to gap any plug on this engine. Are the insulators cracking??
 

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I'm curious about the damage but .24 is way too close to gap any plug on this engine. Are the insulators cracking?
 

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HT-0 or equivalent is what Procharger recommends for their P1-SC-1 units: the HT-1s are "hot" in comparison to the HT-0s, which are one degree "colder" than the OEM plugs.
 

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I recently had to re-gap my #4 plug. I did it shade tree mechanic style. Got my Sear's workmate. Placed the plug in a deep socket 9'16 6 point. Used a steel plate on the electrode side of the plug. Placed my feeler gauge in between the electrode and the ground shield. Then, gently tightened the workmate until proper gap was achieved. Hope that helps some avoid a special tool purchase.
 

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They gapped the plugs but I didn't get back to read the comments. I hope the guys at the Performance shop know what they are doing. I put them in and the same problem exists. The rough idle and stalling on take off. One plug has oil residue on it but the plug is firing.What can cause this. Maybe the injectors are clogged?
 

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[B said:
mineralgrey[/B];1003336]They gapped the plugs but I didn't get back to read the comments. I hopethe guys at the Performance shop knowwhta they are doing. I put them in and the same problem exists. The rough idle and stalling on take off. One plug has oil residue on it but they plug is firing. What can cause this. Maybe the injectors are clogged?


Sometimes starting the car a lot without getting up to operating temps can foul the plugs. These plugs are too cold to just burn off residue later. Best to pull them and clean them if residue is the only visible issue. Always run big injector modified S197 cars up to operating temp after every start up.
 
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