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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am almost done. After one problem after another. First couldn't get all of the bolts in on the passenger side. Called JBA they told me to drill out the hole, or they would send me a new one. I didn't want to wait, so I drilled them out. Then I dropped a bolt as I was getting the bottom rear bolt started, and it went right into the starter hole. Found it inbetween the fly wheel and the engine. but i got it out.

Now I just noticed that it looks like I have to weld the two halfs of the h-pipe together. Is this right? And the h-pipe is going to be 2 inches short of reaching the factory cat-back.

Any recomendations?

Thanks,
 

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I installed the JBAs 2 times. Look up some of my post in the 2005+ tech section on headers.

You do not have to weld the H-pipe together. One slips over the other, then you put a U-Clamp on them that should have cam in your kit. I foget which side goes on top.

I am not sure why you had to drill out the holes. I hope it doesnt cause you problems in the long run. You may need to call a buddy or a helper to either strat a few bolts for you or hold the header in place.

I chose to leave one stud in, slip the header over it to hold it in place, then start the rest of the bolts and just put the nut down on the stud.

Oh, use antiseize on your Header to Head bolts, and you don't have to torque them too much. Then after you get a few heat cycles, re-check them you wrench to see if you can snug them a bit more. Then, after your next oil change, do it again.

If you have any other questions, email me at [email protected]. Though, I would think you would find a lot of answers to your questions in my post I already made if you want them quicker.
 

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1965 Mustang coupe
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I installed the JBAs 2 times. Look up some of my post in the 2005+ tech section on headers.

You do not have to weld the H-pipe together. One slips over the other, then you put a U-Clamp on them that should have cam in your kit. I foget which side goes on top.

I am not sure why you had to drill out the holes. I hope it doesnt cause you problems in the long run. You may need to call a buddy or a helper to either strat a few bolts for you or hold the header in place.

I chose to leave one stud in, slip the header over it to hold it in place, then start the rest of the bolts and just put the nut down on the stud.

Oh, use antiseize on your Header to Head bolts, and you don't have to torque them too much. Then after you get a few heat cycles, re-check them you wrench to see if you can snug them a bit more. Then, after your next oil change, do it again.

If you have any other questions, email me at [email protected]. Though, I would think you would find a lot of answers to your questions in my post I already made if you want them quicker.
Now I get the welding the H-pipe together thing. But why is the midpipe too short?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Apparently over the past 2 weeks, the exhaust had worked its way out the back. I didn't notice, till I noticed the tips were sticking out different lengths out the back of the car.

On the welding the tube together thing, I think JBA forgot to include a clamp.
 

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Hey, let me know how you like those when you get done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I found a clamp at the hardware store that works perfect, and I have finished. I did have to cut off the tip of one of the screws holding the heat shielding. It was digging into the passenger side cat. ( due to the passenger header being bent slightly wrong.) It looks like I need 2 O2 sensor extensions for the rear o2 sensors. But I love the sound. Haven't driven it yet though.

I did notice the exhaust is smokier, and it has a strong odor. Is this normal?

I need to reprogram the computer, and I don't have a serial to usb cable. My work laptop has one for programming the assembly lines with older PLCs, but I'm not an admin on it, so can't install the software. Just a power user. Anyone know a way around that?
 

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Well I found a clamp at the hardware store that works perfect, and I have finished. I did have to cut off the tip of one of the screws holding the heat shielding. It was digging into the passenger side cat. ( due to the passenger header being bent slightly wrong.) It looks like I need 2 O2 sensor extensions for the rear o2 sensors. But I love the sound. Haven't driven it yet though.

I did notice the exhaust is smokier, and it has a strong odor. Is this normal?

I need to reprogram the computer, and I don't have a serial to usb cable. My work laptop has one for programming the assembly lines with older PLCs, but I'm not an admin on it, so can't install the software. Just a power user. Anyone know a way around that?
I'm surprised they didn't come with extensions. The smell is normal. The h/f cats aren't as efficient as the stockers. Though some of that will fade as you break them in.
 

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I to had to grinf a scre off for a good fitment. Its not because of th eheader, it because a cat was never ment to be there in the design.

The kit does not ome with extension because you can just plug the hole and have your tuner turn them off on the tune, or plug in sims.

As for the smell, some of that could be because you dont have an updated tune as well. Though, you really shouldnt be seeing smoke other than a possible small puff at start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well it isn't smoking as much, and the smell has gone away, but I have an exhaust leak tsss tsss tsss tssss. Not sure where. Thats going to be fun figuring out which one is leaking. Any recomendations?
 

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Is it from under the hood or underneath the car?
 

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after you have started the car and heated up the headers you should re-torq the header bolts. just re-check the clamps and bolts on everything. The smell and smoke is just the new headers and cats burning off the newness. Mine did it when I installed the system
 
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