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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, got a few questions about the heads/valvetrain, duh.

1) Someone recommended 1mm oversize valves for P/P heads. What size are these valves and what advantages do they provide?

2) Can the heads be removed from inside the car? I'm sure the degree of difficulty is pegging at about 10, but I'm just curious.

I'm sure there are more but I can't think of them right now. Thanks! :shiny:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
UGH! That's not what I wanted to hear (about the heads).

Modding the car is starting to make me sad. :sadcry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was trying to just get the heads/cams done, but it seems like a waste to have them take the engine out when I want a new engine anyway. I just have to wait longer to get that.

I'm usually more patient than this, but having these giant boxes in the house is killing me.
 

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1965 Mustang coupe
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I was trying to just get the heads/cams done, but it seems like a waste to have them take the engine out when I want a new engine anyway. I just have to wait longer to get that.

I'm usually more patient than this, but having these giant boxes in the house is killing me.
Certainly not worth doing twice! :so
 

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What cams did you end up getting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What cams did you end up getting?
I got a set of Stage II Crowers. I thought they had a custom grind at first, but I think I was reading the website wrong. I just looked at it and the specs match the same that's on the cam card.

Duration: 274*/284*
Lift: .492

This puts them a tad rougher than the COMP Stage IV's, which has me a bit concerned as far as how rough the ride will be. They may get a new home before they see my car, but who knows?
 

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hey big will dont be bumd out.... it's so much easier and safer to pull the engine... you dont want to mess up a head gasket trying to fit a head on in that tight space.... it's not that hard to pull the engine.... i least i dont think so
 

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I was trying to just get the heads/cams done, but it seems like a waste to have them take the engine out when I want a new engine anyway. I just have to wait longer to get that.

I'm usually more patient than this, but having these giant boxes in the house is killing me.
Patients my good man, patients. :D
I know how you feel... My garage is starting to look like a parts warehouse. What shortblock are you looking to get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I want the MMR Stroker. I think it would be cheaper just to have it already assembled than to have a shop do it. I had high hopes to have it in a year, but it's looking like 18-24 months now.

Guess I'll have to find other mods to tide me over until then. :D
 

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Problem is... Who wants to buy stock parts? :so
We can try to sell your old TB spacer... That should fetch a pretty penny. :gringreen
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Problem is... Who wants to buy stock parts? :so
I think I may be looking for a set of OEM over-axle pipes. These aftermarket POS's won't stop rattling against the PH bar brace. I'll wait until I get the exhaust hangers fixed before I make the swap. There was no rattle when I had the Magnaflows on and the fit was much better. :headscratch:

Anyone ever figure out the deal with the valves? Looking at Manley's website, they advertise 37.5mm and 38.5mm exhaust valves and 34mm/35mm intake valves. I'd like to assume that the smaller number is the stock value, but we all know what happens when you assume things. :nono:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sweet!! Now, what is the advantage in getting bigger ones? If I had to guess, I'd say that bigger ones provide some sort of better 'seal' when used with ported heads.
 

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No advantage in 'seal'. That's the function of the valve job. A larger valve will increase the air flow if the bowl area below the seat is also made larger, and the valve job opened up to match the valve. However, as you go larger in overall port area, you start to lose some port velocity. This isn't as big a concern if you are F/I. N/A though, you will probably lose a little low end, but run better upstairs.
 
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