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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a 2006 Mustang GT Manual Transmission. Everything is stock. 73500 miles. Original Owner.

I have no problems shifting into any gear. The clutch does not slip when starting out in second or third gear. But...

After accelerating normally in first gear, when I push in the clutch for the shift to second (2000 rpm or higher), a loud rattling sound happens for about one second (until the rpms come down). The sound is kind of similar to the "wheel of fortune" noise when you spin the wheel, but deeper. If I keep the clutch in, the rattling stops, and then I can let the clutch out and accelerate normally in second gear. If I let the clutch out while the rattling is happening, I can accelerate but the loud rattling/clicking continues even louder and faster. At this point, I press the clutch in, wait for the loud rattling to stop, then let the clutch out and accelerate normally. This mostly happens on the transition from first to second and from second to third. It does not happen in the higher gears very often. I seem to have full power when I accelerate in any gear as long as there is no rattling. It usually only happens during cold days or in the morning but it is starting to happen more often than that. After I have driven for 10 minutes, the rattling will not occur when I push in the clutch and it is harder to recreate the rattling. Also, it seems to happen more in a turn than when going in a straight line. For example, when I start off in first gear and make a turn, half way through the turn I push in the clutch for the shift, the loud rattling starts. Lately, I have been keeping the car in first gear through the entire turn, and then shift to second after the turn is complete, and the rattling is kept to a minimum. Or, if I am coming off of the freeway after I downshift to third, and as I am going around the cloverleaf with the clutch engaged, while throttle steering the rattling will occur as I let off the gas.

Anyone know what is wrong?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Rattle

I have just had the same exact problem with my 2005 GT convertible with 45k. It turned out to be an "inspection plate" under the car that covers the bottom of the flywheel. Apparently this is what is removed to inspect the flywheel for wear and soforth. Anyhow, it turns out that the plate was bent and rubbing against the flywheel. Your symptoms were the same as mine but mine went away once the car was warm. Hope this helps. Now the battery went bad and it won't start. That's ok since the weather is bad and the car does not get driven in any inclement weather.
 

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Three things come to mind.
1) Clutch chatter
2) Pilot Bearing going out
3) Bell Housing separator plate

For the first, if it is clutch chatter, probably the slave cylinder isn't lifting the clutch all the way off the flywheel and you are getting chatter. Does the engine seem to be decelerating faster than normal?
If this is the issue, you will need new clutch, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing. Possibly resurface or replace flywheel if heat checking is found from chatter.

For the second, the pilot bearing could be going out and causing noise in the higher RPMs with the clutch disengaged. Do you notice the sound/chatter follow the speed of the engine spinning down?

For the third option, this is what DennisG mentioned. There is a TSB from Ford on this issue (TSB 09-18-16). Google for the PDF to understand the issue. Here is a forum thread that discusses this issue (see last post with picture of plate scraping): http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...h/171393-metallic-noise-when-engine-cold.html

Here is a self-fix way of curing the issue if this is the issue and you don't go with replacing the plate with the revised plate with rib: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...78-2005-mustang-gt-separator-plate-noise.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
[solved]

I took the car in for a new clutch and expecting to need a new flywheel...turns out it was not the clutch or flywheel. The problem was that the engine oil was low. Too low...caused the timing chain tension to become weak and the timing chains caused the rattling. I got lucky I did not do more damage and I feel pretty stupid so maybe others can learn from my maintenance failure.

Engine oil light NEVER came on. Engine oil pressure was in normal range on dash. Revving the engine while standing still never caused the rattling. No oil leaks anywhere. It only happened when I was pushing the clutch in after accelerating (releasing the load from the engine) so I would have bet a year's worth of pay that it was the transmission. You should have heard the sarcasm in my voice when the mechanic called and tried to tell me it was the engine oil.

Changed the oil and filter and its like I have a new car...amazing.
 

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Wow...glad to hear there was no damage. You may already know this, but for the benefit of other reading this, the oil pressure gauge on our GT's is really just a pressure switch. Its set to keep the gauge positioned mid way. I have no idea why Ford decided to do it that way. The pressure has to get quite low before the gauge will show a problem.
 
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