[jwlast]

Got a 06 GT with a Hellion turbo, currently making about 470 HP, 500 trq. Upgraded the rear tires from BF Goodrich's that came stock to a set of MT ET street radials, also added a line lock. Although I haven't tried the line lock yet, have notice the MTs have huge grip with no tire spin from launch through all the gears. Plan is to take the car to the strip once in a while. Haven't upgraded the clutch yet, but that's in the future when the stock clutch starts to go south.

OK, here's are the question(s)

- I know the line lock, tires and new clutch will abuse the drive line. I'm real concerned about the u joints. Can anybody tell me what u joints the car came with stock (1330, 1350s?)
- If you were going to upgrade the u joints, while maintaining the stock drivetrain (drive shaft, etc) what u joint is the best choice?
- Or should I chuck it all, go with an aftermarket driveshaft, u joints, yoke, etc. If this is the best alternative, what's are the best choices?

Thanks in advance.....

JT

 

[stlwagon]

I believe the OEM d/s comes with Spicer 1330s.

 

[BKid]

Got a 06 GT with a Hellion turbo, currently making about 470 HP, 500 trq. Upgraded the rear tires from BF Goodrich's that came stock to a set of MT ET street radials, also added a line lock. Although I haven't tried the line lock yet, have notice the MTs have huge grip with no tire spin from launch through all the gears. Plan is to take the car to the strip once in a while. Haven't upgraded the clutch yet, but that's in the future when the stock clutch starts to go south.

OK, here's are the question(s)

- I know the line lock, tires and new clutch will abuse the drive line. I'm real concerned about the u joints. Can anybody tell me what u joints the car came with stock (1330, 1350s?)
- If you were going to upgrade the u joints, while maintaining the stock drivetrain (drive shaft, etc) what u joint is the best choice?
- Or should I chuck it all, go with an aftermarket driveshaft, u joints, yoke, etc. If this is the best alternative, what's are the best choices?

Thanks in advance.....

JT

AFTERMARKET DS . Do you have a shelby gt hertz?

 

[sqidd]

I believe the OEM d/s comes with Spicer 1330s.

There are 4 joints in the OEM driveshaft. Only one of them is a U-joint. I am guessing the other 3 with the rubber boots over them are some sort of CV joint.

Runnig "Drag" tires at the drag strip with that kind of power is insane. You can get a 1 pc. shaft right now or get a 1 pc. shaft and all the parts the 2 pc shaft wiped out when it let go soon.

And even with a loop loosing a DS can get pretty violent. It's not something to look forward to.

 

[jwlast]

Thanks for the replies

BKid - Yes, I have a GTH as well as the GT. In a strange twist, I want to sell the car, wife wants me to keep it. I think she might have a boyfriend.....:so

Sqidd - You mentioned "Runnig "Drag" tires at the drag strip with that kind of power is insane." Can you elaborate.

One follow-up question. I making close to GT500 power, what did the Shelby do for driveline parts?

 

[travelers]

If you go with the single shaft setup go with the 1350s

 

[sqidd]

Sqidd - You mentioned "Runnig "Drag" tires at the drag strip with that kind of power is insane." Can you elaborate.

I’m pretty sure I did but I will give it another shot. Running at the track with sticky tires, big HP and a stock driveshaft is insane. The stock shaft will not stand up to that abuse. Breaking driveshafts can be incredibly violent, even with safety loops.

One follow-up question. I making close to GT500 power, what did the Shelby do for driveline parts?

As far as I know nothing.

But the DS doesn’t see much more stress on a GT500 than a GT. Traction brakes driveshaft. If you were to side step the clutch @ 6K on a 800hp car with the stock tires they would simply turn into smoke and the DS would be fine. On the other hand if you were to side step the clutch @ 6K a few times with a 350hp car with sticky tires the driveshaft will be on borrowed time.

I was driving a car that exploded the trans at about 135mph and half the trans and the driveshaft got “pulled under” the car. The driveshaft pulled a NHRA legal loop right out of the bottom of the car so hard that the tops of the front seats were almost touching. The entire floor was just about yanked out of the bottom of the car. And while this was happening it pole vaulted us about 10-15ft in the air. Once we landed and managed to get the car stopped we got out to see the damage. The car (77’ Trans Am) was totaled. The “event” was so violent that it broke one motor mount, split the trans I two lengthwise, caved the entire floorpan in, the rear end was in the car at an angle, the exhaust was gone, headers were flat ad the roof was buckled.

Trust me when I say you don’t want to drop a driveshaft. Generally it happens at the launch so it’s not nearly as bad as above. But they don’t only break while leaving the line.

 

[travelers]

I’m pretty sure I did but I will give it another shot. Running at the track with sticky tires, big HP and a stock driveshaft is insane. The stock shaft will not stand up to that abuse. Breaking driveshafts can be incredibly violent, even with safety loops.



As far as I know nothing.

But the DS doesn’t see much more stress on a GT500 than a GT. Traction brakes driveshaft. If you were to side step the clutch @ 6K on a 800hp car with the stock tires they would simply turn into smoke and the DS would be fine. On the other hand if you were to side step the clutch @ 6K a few times with a 350hp car with sticky tires the driveshaft will be on borrowed time.

I was driving a car that exploded the trans at about 135mph and half the trans and the driveshaft got “pulled under” the car. The driveshaft pulled a NHRA legal loop right out of the bottom of the car so hard that the tops of the front seats were almost touching. The entire floor was just about yanked out of the bottom of the car. And while this was happening it pole vaulted us about 10-15ft in the air. Once we landed and managed to get the car stopped we got out to see the damage. The car (77’ Trans Am) was totaled. The “event” was so violent that it broke one motor mount, split the trans I two lengthwise, caved the entire floorpan in, the rear end was in the car at an angle, the exhaust was gone, headers were flat ad the roof was buckled.

Trust me when I say you don’t want to drop a driveshaft. Generally it happens at the launch so it’s not nearly as bad as above. But they don’t only break while leaving the line.

I've seen a few hand-grenade before and it's not pertty.

Your lucky it didn't flip the car over.

 

[BKid]

Thanks for the replies

BKid - Yes, I have a GTH as well as the GT. In a strange twist, I want to sell the car, wife wants me to keep it. I think she might have a boyfriend.....:so

Sqidd - You mentioned "Runnig "Drag" tires at the drag strip with that kind of power is insane." Can you elaborate.

One follow-up question. I making close to GT500 power, what did the Shelby do for driveline parts?

Yea she was not so nice to you that night we raced. She told you that I handed you your ass at the track. Not nice of her was it? Which car do you want to sell? I think it is crap they got that monster truck stuff going on tonight. I was hoping to try out my new mods.
You need a piece driveshaft and a safty loop.

 

[stlwagon]

Breaking driveshafts can be incredibly violent, even with safety loops.

It's called a steel enema!

 

[jwlast]

BKid - You definitely smoked the poor little GTH, now it's for sale. Lose once and you're gone has always been my moto.....

See attached photo, us pulling out of the staging lanes prespanking....

 

[jwlast]

Here's the photo........

 

[jwlast]

OK, so which driveshaft? Narrowed the choices to two based on discussions with the shop that works on my car and looking at various forums.....looking for your thoughts, experiences with either.

- LFP Pro Street Aluminum Drive Shaft

- Sydershaft - Got to admit leaning in this direction, read nothing but good things about this piece.

Thanks

 

[BKid]

Yea... when I raced you, I smoked the tires all the way down the track almost.I will not post the video , unless you would like me to.
I would go with a Powerhouse driveshaft. Coast also makes a good shaft. Others will give you different ideas. The powerhouse drive shaft is a good one and they stand behind it. I had got mine and the box was slighly damaged. They paid to have it shipped back , they checked it and sent it back. I have ran the powerhouse with not one issue. Get the powerhouse and be done with it. Get the Che perfomance safty loop, power house sell them also. You can also find it on Ebay for less money.(loop)

 

[BKid]

I believe the OEM d/s comes with Spicer 1330s.

That is what the guy at Ford told me also. But that is not going to help this guy, as you know the 2 piece is trouble waiting to happen. Remember that on guy whose 2 piece broke and part of it went up into the transmission and hit the block. It also came up into the drivers cabin. Man that could of been bad.

 

[sqidd]

I would go with a Powerhouse driveshaft. I had got mine and the box was slighly damaged.

I just happen to have one of these in the classifieds section (undamaged of course):scratchchin

They paid to have it shipped back , they checked it and sent it back

I doubt they "checked" it short of seeing if it had any big dings in it. Powerhouse doesn't make thier driveshafts. They buy them "pre-boxed" from another vendor and sell them with their stickers on. Powerhouse doesn't have the equipment or the know how to "test" or inspect their driveshafts. This is not how I know the above but I called down there once to get the bolt sizes that come with the driveshaft so I could get more and I was told "I have no idea what the sizes are, they are all boxed up".

This is not a slam, lots of places "package" other vendors products and sell them as their own. This is true with everything from food to, well, driveshafts. The only issue I have is when shops/stores/etc do this and pretend that everything was done in house.

 

[sqidd]

I've seen a few hand-grenade before and it's not pertty.

Your lucky it didn't flip the car over.

I'm thinking I would have much rather seen it:gringreen

And you are correct sir, flipping it over would have probably killed us. 9 second street cars with T-tops and no cage are not the greatest idea.:nono: I was about 20 at the time. I did something incredibly stupid on a daily basis back then. I'm down to doing something stupid every other day or so now (38yrs old). Quite an improvement.

 

[BKid]

I just happen to have one of these in the classifieds section (undamaged of course):scratchchin




I doubt they "checked" it short of seeing if it had any big dings in it. Powerhouse doesn't make thier drive shafts. They buy them "pre-boxed" from another vendor and sell them with their stickers on. Powerhouse doesn't have the equipment or the know how to "test" or inspect their driveshafts. This is not how I know the above but I called down there once to get the bolt sizes that come with the driveshaft so I could get more and I was told "I have no idea what the sizes are, they are all boxed up".

This is not a slam, lots of places "package" other vendors products and sell them as their own. This is true with everything from food to, well, driveshafts. The only issue I have is when shops/stores/etc do this and pretend that everything was done in house.

Yea I found this out also. So I took it down to the Drive shaft specialist here in Albuquerque. They checked it out on a balance machine, and showed me that it was right on. They also stated that it was a well made piece. I have been dealing with this shop for a long time now. Most drag racers here, do as well. I just like the powerhouse drive shaft for drag racing. I know that is what the original poster here is looking for,a good strong DS. I know you are not slamming me in any way.You are only stating your experience which we all want to hear , and appreciate.
I would also upgrade the ujoints as Travelers had stated. I also run the 1350`s

 

[BKid]

If you are going with the LFP ,this is the one to get. http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=235_221&products_id=1351