the AVIC is Pioneer pal..

other than that, i haven't had the time to investigate any upgrades yet..
i know what stuff i want but we're doing up the wife's civic atm with full custom install so it's taking preference ( )

subscribing to this thread tho, you asked good questions

The head unit is the "power" for the deck and door speakers. As for the 8" subs in the doors, they are powered by four amps located on the drivers side under the dash.

I have completely replaced my skipper1000 system. I highly recommend it :winks

One suggestion is possibly consider a Scosche enclosure. They have a box for a single 12" that mounts where the 1000's sub box goes. And it fits like a glove.

If you remove the stock head unit, all you need to slap something else in there is the mounting kit for the console, and the wiring harness adaptor.
Metra 70-5521 is the brand and model number harness you will need if you intend on utilizing the factory wiring. The mounting kit is Metra 99-5807.
If you intend on using the factory sub woofer amps you will need a voltage regulator on your amp on signal wire coming from the head unit. You can get a LM7805 off the shelf at Radio Shack and it will work fine. The Ford amps expect a < +8V signal. Your aftermarket head unit is going to put out +12V. The end result is going to be a NASTY pop when the subs power up. The voltage regulator will prevent that.

As for how the speakers are going to sound with the aftermarket head unit. Only you can be the judge of that. Each person has a different ear.
Personally, I think all installing my aftermarket setup did was exploit the flaws in the factory speakers. So I replaced them also ( which I intended on doing anyway ).

hawg, youre dead on with that "pop" with the subs. Best Buy installed my speakers last week and said they were messing around with the door subs. After I left and started the car later that night, an earsplitting two pops about 15 seconds apart greeted me. I went right back to the store first thing next morning to straighten it out

Shaker 500/Speaker Replacement

I've been very unhappy with my Shaker 500 also. I was underwhelmed when I first heard it.

Are the Shaker 500 speakers that bad? Has anyone just replaced the head unit or just replaced the speakers? I was wondering what the weak link is, if it is the head unit or the speakers or just a combination of both.

I would like to hook an iPod into my system because I've been unhappy with the iPod FM transmitters. I was thinking about the PIE adapter but now I'm thinking about just replacing the head unit with a JVC unit that has HD radio and iPod interface.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9tRv4N...w.asp?g=300&id=essential_info&i=257KDHDR1#Tab

I don't know if I should replace my speakers also.

How did you mount your voltage regulator to the signal wire. What kind of connection would be used? Just have the set up and need to know the best way to wire it in. Thanks.

hawgman said:

The head unit is the "power" for the deck and door speakers. As for the 8" subs in the doors, they are powered by four amps located on the drivers side under the dash.

I have completely replaced my skipper1000 system. I highly recommend it :winks

One suggestion is possibly consider a Scosche enclosure. They have a box for a single 12" that mounts where the 1000's sub box goes. And it fits like a glove.

If you remove the stock head unit, all you need to slap something else in there is the mounting kit for the console, and the wiring harness adaptor.
Metra 70-5521 is the brand and model number harness you will need if you intend on utilizing the factory wiring. The mounting kit is Metra 99-5807.
If you intend on using the factory sub woofer amps you will need a voltage regulator on your amp on signal wire coming from the head unit. You can get a LM7805 off the shelf at Radio Shack and it will work fine. The Ford amps expect a < +8V signal. Your aftermarket head unit is going to put out +12V. The end result is going to be a NASTY pop when the subs power up. The voltage regulator will prevent that.

As for how the speakers are going to sound with the aftermarket head unit. Only you can be the judge of that. Each person has a different ear.
Personally, I think all installing my aftermarket setup did was exploit the flaws in the factory speakers. So I replaced them also ( which I intended on doing anyway ).

Click to expand...

I don't know why everyone is so down on the Shaker system, I mean other than those that skip do you think the sound quality is poor? I have the 500 and mine has been working flawlessly and I am very impressed with the sound quality and power of it, were they improved for 2006?

The shaker 500 head unit aactually puts out good sound, especially using the CD. It is
the speakers that suck - changing the head unit won't help that. Not sure what you want,
but upgrading just the 6x8's in the doors and rear deck help alot (>$300). If you need
killer bass, a 12" sub in a Scosche box with 250w+ amp in the trunk will easily
accomplish that ($550-700); or you could replace the head unit, all the door speakers
(8" subs and 6x8's), rear deck speakers, a 12" sub and add the 3 or 4 amps in the trunk
to power it all for about $2,500 or so. Those prices are just for the parts. The door and
deck 6x8's are an easy diy if you buy the Metra wiring adapter (free at Crutcfield) -
about 2 hours total. A full 3 amp (1-2ch (door subs), 1-1ch (12" sub) and 1-4ch (6x8's)
replacement system, if you know what you are doing and are going to do it right (power strips,
separating the wiring, all new speaker leads, mounting the amps neatly under the package shelf,
using the factory 8" grills, Dynamating trunk and doors, etc) will take 20-25 hours, minimum -
If I were still doing installs professionally, that would be a $2,500+ install; and no the hacks at
Circuit City, Best Buy, etc could never do it right.

how do you conect that regulator and where is there a separete plug for it?and where did you pluged it?

hawgman said:

The head unit is the "power" for the deck and door speakers. As for the 8" subs in the doors, they are powered by four amps located on the drivers side under the dash.

I have completely replaced my skipper1000 system. I highly recommend it :winks

One suggestion is possibly consider a Scosche enclosure. They have a box for a single 12" that mounts where the 1000's sub box goes. And it fits like a glove.

If you remove the stock head unit, all you need to slap something else in there is the mounting kit for the console, and the wiring harness adaptor.
Metra 70-5521 is the brand and model number harness you will need if you intend on utilizing the factory wiring. The mounting kit is Metra 99-5807.
If you intend on using the factory sub woofer amps you will need a voltage regulator on your amp on signal wire coming from the head unit. You can get a LM7805 off the shelf at Radio Shack and it will work fine. The Ford amps expect a < +8V signal. Your aftermarket head unit is going to put out +12V. The end result is going to be a NASTY pop when the subs power up. The voltage regulator will prevent that.

As for how the speakers are going to sound with the aftermarket head unit. Only you can be the judge of that. Each person has a different ear.
Personally, I think all installing my aftermarket setup did was exploit the flaws in the factory speakers. So I replaced them also ( which I intended on doing anyway ).

Click to expand...

Good choice to replace the Shaker and not use one of those PIE hard wire adaptors. They will give you nothing but problems with error msgs. A good head unit W/Nav is the Eclipse AVN 5500 or 6600.

UR right they SUCK I replaced mine with POLK
audio MOMO speakers and noticed a world of diff.

kinigit said:

I've been very unhappy with my Shaker 500 also. I was underwhelmed when I first heard it.

Are the Shaker 500 speakers that bad? Has anyone just replaced the head unit or just replaced the speakers? I was wondering what the weak link is, if it is the head unit or the speakers or just a combination of both.

I would like to hook an iPod into my system because I've been unhappy with the iPod FM transmitters. I was thinking about the PIE adapter but now I'm thinking about just replacing the head unit with a JVC unit that has HD radio and iPod interface.

JVC KD-HDR1 CD receiver with built-in HD Radio tuner and MP3/WMA playback at Crutchfield.com

I don't know if I should replace my speakers also.

Click to expand...

Has anyone just replaced the Shaker head unit for an aftermarket, but kept the stock speakers? I have a Premier head unit sitting in my house and was thinking of installing it so can use the AUX for an mp3 player.

Ok, so I might be a total nub when it comes to mustangs, sense the 05 i just got is my very 1st one.. but how do i open the dash up a bit to take the shaker 500 i have out?
I want to put in a Pioneer Avic f700bt but I dont want to pay best buy an extra $200 in parts and labor when i can get the parts cheap off ebay and do it myself.. I bought a few of those manual for car repair but there isnt much detail in the shaker removal area.. if someone could tell me wt to look for I would reallllllllly appreciate it.. hell if you in the Ann Arbor Michigan area I'll buy you a beer

Never mind I found this great site with the instructions i need..

Auto Manual: 2005 Ford Mustang Service Manual.pdf for Free » OnlineFreeEBooks.net « the most imitated free ebook site

if anyone needs the same or other info..

Ofcourse sound tastes are different for each people. But if you consider Shaker 500 as the factory product - i think they are pretty good. Dont increase the volume too much and its pleasant sound with clear treble and rich bass. The factry subs are not that bad. I hooked up PAC AUX connector and play with Sony Mp3 player..that even sounds better than the CD player. I dont expect much out of these stock products and definately if you replace the subs and speakers you are going to get a good sound.
Headunit can be replaced only if you want nice look n feel. But again i think factory setup is always good for look n feel coz they dont create unnecessary openings.
Frankly speaking i dont see much improvements in sound quality if you replace the headunit - if u r playing with good mp3 player wih aux - its vertually the same.
speakers - yes u can try.

If you want tight high quality ipod integration without buying a new stereo, try this company.

iPod Direct Connect Adapter - Brandmotion

If you want better speakers, then you can go this path.

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how do those kicker speakers sound as far as after market speakers go?
would it be a better idea to get these kicker 8" subs or go thise route?
Shaker 500 Door Subs Replaced (Walk Through) - MustangForums.com


also is there a comparable amp that i could get instead of this kicker one for cheaper, that would give me the same power?
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Where are all the audio gurus or should i just post this on the v6 tech forum?
how is this package price wise?
Ford Mustang Coupe 05-08 Dual 10" C10 Sub Box Enclosure W/ ZX400.1 Amplifier
my friend has teh kicker comps and they sound good but is this a good deal? also where would the box fit exactly? having a hard time visualizing it i would consider getting this insetad of the 700 dollar 10" sub offered on the shelby site. i would greatly appreciate help..

A nice combo for a convertible

My wife has an 06 convertible. I hated the Shaker 500 so much that I wound up replacing every component in the car.

1. Dynamat the entire interior space.
All sides of the truck space including the lid.
Removed the carpeting and replaced with better quality and went with Black vs. Lt Grey.
Dynamat is also on the floor pan to kill road noise.
2. Took out the rear seats [useless in the Mustang to begin with] and built a rear seat delete. The bottom shelf area has boxes for 2 x 10" JL Audio W3V3-4s. These are sealed not ported and face upward not toward the driver.
3. The Mach 1 and rear area 5x7 are all gone. Replaced with JL Audio C3-525 component speakers and external cross-overs.
4. The 1" directional tweeters are placed in the top of the door panels by the mirrors in front and at the top of the lower interior trim panels in the rear. This is right under where the seat belt retractors are. Basically, they are about a foot from your head so you can hear them very clearly.
5. The backboard of the rear seat delete holds a 4 farad capacitor with digital voltage meter and also the power and ground distribution blocks.
6. The back also holds both amplifiers. I used a JL Audio XD400/4 for the 5.25s and a XD600/1 for the subs.
7. The head unit was replaced with a Kenwood DNX9990HD. This unit has everything including 2 USB ports mounted in the center console and a SD slot for updating the NAV maps. It has live traffic and your choice of sat radio. Front and Rear 13 band EQ and is in dolby 7.1 surround. It has 3 AV feeds and outputs so the last item will be placing a 27" LCD on the inward face of the rear seat delete boards.
8. Add the wiring harness, mount kits, nicer face plate, antenna amplifier and another antenna for GPS.

My latest additions:
9. The 8" stock door subs are being replaced with 8" JL Audio W3V3-4s so everything matches. I'm also planning on line feeding another XD200/2 to power these.

My wife thinks the whole thing rocks but my tuned ear says we need just a little more bass at the higher end up front. The 8s will do just fine.

If you pair it all together and know what will sound good, it becomes all about mounting location. Our outfit rocks seriously hard and clear. I barely use the dual 13bands. We basically run it flat since the LPF and HPF send signal to the cross-overs. It's already tuned and doesn't need additional tweaking.

I posted pictures on photo bucket but haven't taken one with the Kenwood installed yet. I also need to add a few showing how the rear boards have the amplifiers mounted.

http://photobucket.com/projectcherribomb

Sounds like a serious install. Any chance of posting pics of the tweeter install?

Later,

jimmpanik said:

My wife has an 06 convertible. I hated the Shaker 500 so much that I wound up replacing every component in the car.

1. Dynamat the entire interior space.
All sides of the truck space including the lid.
Removed the carpeting and replaced with better quality and went with Black vs. Lt Grey.
Dynamat is also on the floor pan to kill road noise.
2. Took out the rear seats [useless in the Mustang to begin with] and built a rear seat delete. The bottom shelf area has boxes for 2 x 10" JL Audio W3V3-4s. These are sealed not ported and face upward not toward the driver.
3. The Mach 1 and rear area 5x7 are all gone. Replaced with JL Audio C3-525 component speakers and external cross-overs.
4. The 1" directional tweeters are placed in the top of the door panels by the mirrors in front and at the top of the lower interior trim panels in the rear. This is right under where the seat belt retractors are. Basically, they are about a foot from your head so you can hear them very clearly.
5. The backboard of the rear seat delete holds a 4 farad capacitor with digital voltage meter and also the power and ground distribution blocks.
6. The back also holds both amplifiers. I used a JL Audio XD400/4 for the 5.25s and a XD600/1 for the subs.
7. The head unit was replaced with a Kenwood DNX9990HD. This unit has everything including 2 USB ports mounted in the center console and a SD slot for updating the NAV maps. It has live traffic and your choice of sat radio. Front and Rear 13 band EQ and is in dolby 7.1 surround. It has 3 AV feeds and outputs so the last item will be placing a 27" LCD on the inward face of the rear seat delete boards.
8. Add the wiring harness, mount kits, nicer face plate, antenna amplifier and another antenna for GPS.

My latest additions:
9. The 8" stock door subs are being replaced with 8" JL Audio W3V3-4s so everything matches. I'm also planning on line feeding another XD200/2 to power these.

My wife thinks the whole thing rocks but my tuned ear says we need just a little more bass at the higher end up front. The 8s will do just fine.

If you pair it all together and know what will sound good, it becomes all about mounting location. Our outfit rocks seriously hard and clear. I barely use the dual 13bands. We basically run it flat since the LPF and HPF send signal to the cross-overs. It's already tuned and doesn't need additional tweaking.

I posted pictures on photo bucket but haven't taken one with the Kenwood installed yet. I also need to add a few showing how the rear boards have the amplifiers mounted.

http://photobucket.com/projectcherribomb

Click to expand...