2006 Mustang V6 Rotor/Pad Change

thats about the price for a shop to do it.

i changed mine pads at 50k too. they were maybe half wore, and thats when i like to change them anyway as its not very expensive. the rotors are good for a couple sets of pads, but its your call. i bought a set of ceramic pads for around 100.00+, a caliper kit from harbor freight for 20.00 and changed them myself.

at 60k though, i got 17" wheels and bought the larger gt upgrade kit with new rotors for the frt from cj pony for 140.00. my pads are still like new. you can get new takeoffs rear rotors for 40.00 a set.

The actual labor time involved to replace all four rotors and all brake pads takes maybe one hour.
Not sure about the V-6, but front rotors are available as takeoff parts online for about $39. for both front rotors.

Maybe you just don't know how, but it is a simple job for a person to do them self. I'm sure total parts cost would be not more than $150. Do it yourself and spend the saved money on something else.

For the money asked by that person you could buy a floor jack, jack stands, the tools needed, shop rags, brake cleaner in a can and all the parts necessary, and still have lots of money left over.

Did some of the work myself today. Front went well. Not too hard. Rear was a whole different story. Couldn't get the caliper off after I pulled the two mounting bolts. Had to button it back up. I'll let the shop do the rear.

mwd said:

Did some of the work myself today. Front went well. Not too hard. Rear was a whole different story. Couldn't get the caliper off after I pulled the two mounting bolts. Had to button it back up. I'll let the shop do the rear.

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the rears will come off by prying them gently. but you need the caliper kit i mentioned to retrack the piston. it has to turn while pushing in. 20.00 at harbor freight, or can probably rent one for free from the auto parts. then its as easy as the frt

It thought you used the piston tool after the caliper was off so you could get it back on over the new pads......

This is probably a stupid thing to ask.....but here it goes......when you were trying to remove your rear calipers, your emergency brake was not set, was it????

Ah this was a lesson well learned for me I will always do my own now as friends can be trusted and mechanics charge to much its actually really easy to do I spent maybe 64 bucks for back and I will be doing front later. Rotors are not very expensive at all if you want just stock type. If you do it yourself just be careful with back and the ebrake harware also get the caliper tool rather then using c clamps or hammer for calipers!

raggtop,
That's not a stupid question at all but emergency brake was off.

Gotta revive this guys, bear with me.

When you guys replace pads, if the rotor is still good, do you have then resurfaced / turned.

Some people say, don't bother. Other people say, do it always for better mating between new pad and rotor.

What do you guys reckon?

If it needs turning, it needs replacing. I just replace 'em anyways, they are pretty cheap.
If you do not turn them, it may take longer to bed the pads.

At 28,000 miles with no abuse, and pads that were obviously weak (because they only lasted 28,000 miles), wear on the rotors is minimal. But, they do have the obvious lines and ridges from use. Shops say, they always either turn or replace. I wondering if it's true, or just an excuse to sell you more services.

For what its worth, I didn't turn them at 40,000 miles and had no problem with OEM brake pads. The next one (this summer at 60K) I will do rotors and pads. If you have 17 inch rims you can up grade to GT rotors for really the same cost. See CJ Pony parts for the upgrade pack.

im in the spot right now cause i need to replace my pads and i was wondering of i need to replace my rotors cause i can feel it when i am stopping it feels like there r some low spots on my rotor causing small stuttering

Deadstick said:

If it needs turning, it needs replacing. I just replace 'em anyways, they are pretty cheap.
If you do not turn them, it may take longer to bed the pads.

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nowadays, they dont really recommend turning the rotors, unless they are warped, but even then theres not much meat on them as it is. after a couple set of pads, they are toast. i bought some inexpensive rotors from brake motive on ebay. ive put them on both our stangs now. zink plated, after a year on the 06 they still look shiny new around the hubs. they came with ceramic pads too for $205. the set on the 06 was great, but i had problem with the frt pads on the 05, and after 2 emails to brake motive ive got no response. the problem i had was the spring clips would not stay on, so i used another set i had. i`m not happy with the customer service they brag about on the ebay store site, but i am happy with the rotors.

So I take it you usually simply swap pads out with turning until the rotor's toast and then get news ones?

kiteboarder said:

So I take it you usually simply swap pads out with turning until the rotor's toast and then get news ones?

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ya, i dont let my brakes get bad. i only run the pads 3/4 of the way down, change the pads, then after the 2nd set replace the rotors as a rule, at most. thats just me though. thats around 40-50k on a set. i did replace my frt rotors on the 05 around 60k just cause i upgraded to the gt size, they are still good, but i replaced them all 4 at about 80k with these drilled ones cause i hated the rust.

i also replaced the rotors on the 06 at 45k with the drilled ones too, but i think we had one oem that had warped just a little, wanted the new rotors with the new pads, and again, hated the rust.

the parts alone are pretty cheap and easy to do, there are a few things to be carefull about doing them yourself. you should replace the tin clips, but i re used mine on both cars. cleaned and greased them though, the slide pins need to be clean, greased and sliding good and have flats on them that need to seat in the rotors properly, the clips need to be positioned right. i always grease the pistons and the outside where the pads hit the calipers, even though they have anti-squeal pads on them.

Cool man, thanks for the info. I've replaced pads on my old Xterra. Didn't turn them. I haven't had to do it on my Mustang as it's pretty much new still. This question is more for my XB. I'm doing the brakes on that one and I kind of want to do a better job than other times.

The pads are not worn through to metal yet, but they are really low. Risky low. I'll be doing the work next week.

At this rate, I'm considering all new rotors, drilled/slotted and zinc. I can get some really nice ones for $200 all four. Plus, $85 for Centric Ceramic pads. $15 for brake cleaner and anti-squeal spray, and it means I'll do all for $300. Not bad I think. But I think I could save $150-$200 if I just keep the OEM rotors and slap the new pads on. Not sure I want to do that though.

You can just swap out the pads if the rotors are still in good condition, but I usually have them turned or replaced anyways

Yea yea I know necro thread.

Are those the stock calipers and you just painted them?

If you get the CJ Pony upgraded GT rotors/brackets can you scavenge some GT calipers for them?

amustangrocks said:

nowadays, they dont really recommend turning the rotors, unless they are warped, but even then theres not much meat on them as it is. after a couple set of pads, they are toast. i bought some inexpensive rotors from brake motive on ebay. ive put them on both our stangs now. zink plated, after a year on the 06 they still look shiny new around the hubs. they came with ceramic pads too for $205. the set on the 06 was great, but i had problem with the frt pads on the 05, and after 2 emails to brake motive ive got no response. the problem i had was the spring clips would not stay on, so i used another set i had. i`m not happy with the customer service they brag about on the ebay store site, but i am happy with the rotors.

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