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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, about a week ago I noticed my drive train making a roaring, whine noise that seems to be coming from the rear end and makes it sound almost like bigger tires on a jeep. Everything is stock in the rear end and I have never had a problem with it except having to change the pinion seal in Feb. after it leaked from lowering it before I had an adjustable uca. My suspicion is a rear wheel bearing or pinion bearing or a bearing inside the differential. I'm pretty sure my pinion angle is correct, I recently had to check it after my new engine mounts dropped the engine a little. Any tips on how to figure out what it is would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2007 mustang gt, rear end noise, whine, roar.

I don't know but it was topped off when the seal was replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just put it on jack stands and put it in drive and reverse. The sound is NOT present during reverse but is loud in drive. It is hard to tell where it is coming from because the sound resonates but I'm pretty sure it's in the differential. Now to add to the confusion, when I put the car back down and drove it, the control arm is making a popping sound on bumps, when I put it in drive and reverse and when I hit the brakes.
 

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A bad bearing would make the same sound in either direction so it's most likely related to your differential gears. Depending on how much fluid you lost you may have cooked a carrier bearing. If either side fails I could imagine the preload on that side changing which would alter the lash between the ring and the pinion gear. That would be the source of the howling. In drive the lash may tighten and force the teeth too deep into each other. In reverse the lash may open up some. Just speculating here. I just replaced my spider gears this weekend so this is all too fresh in my mind. As for your clunking control arm, no confusion there. I'm betting you did only the arm and not the mount. The bolt holes are different sizes which allows for some slop. After market mounts have the correct bolt hole size or they make little spacers to fill the space if you want to keep the stock mount.
 

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Just thought about this some more hehe. Whoever replaced the pinion seal probably reused the crush sleeve. If the pinion bearing preload is wrong the pinion will have play in it allowing it to move in and out depending on the direction it's spinning. One direction (drive) will pull it in and the other (reverse) will push it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool man, Thanks for the info. The confusion on the control arm is that I have the adapters installed and it has been silent for 8 months but I adjusted it a little 2 days ago since recently I installed motor mounts that dropped the motor. Funny thing is it did not make a sound until after my test with the rear on stands.
 

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???

Cool man, Thanks for the info. The confusion on the control arm is that I have the adapters installed and it has been silent for 8 months but I adjusted it a little 2 days ago since recently I installed motor mounts that dropped the motor. Funny thing is it did not make a sound until after my test with the rear on stands.
Just a shot in the dark but could it be the pinion angle some bind going on??

T Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't think I lost much fluid before the seal was replaced and it wasn't that low but was topped off when we did it. The crush thing was re-used.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
T Wayne. I think I am within tolerance but then again we are adjusting it at my dads house on jack stands. Everything was quiet until a week ago. And the control arm noise started today. Thanks for the replies guys.
 

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A bad bearing would make the same sound in either direction so it's most likely related to your differential gears. Depending on how much fluid you lost you may have cooked a carrier bearing. If either side fails I could imagine the preload on that side changing which would alter the lash between the ring and the pinion gear. That would be the source of the howling. In drive the lash may tighten and force the teeth too deep into each other. In reverse the lash may open up some. Just speculating here. I just replaced my spider gears this weekend so this is all too fresh in my mind. As for your clunking control arm, no confusion there. I'm betting you did only the arm and not the mount. The bolt holes are different sizes which allows for some slop. After market mounts have the correct bolt hole size or they make little spacers to fill the space if you want to keep the stock mount.
I think this is a spot-on assessment.thumbsup3.gif
 

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I don't think I lost much fluid before the seal was replaced and it wasn't that low but was topped off when we did it. The crush thing was re-used.
Urg! That's gotta be your problem. The CORRECT way to do it is to use a new crush sleeve. That's why it's called a crush sleeve, you can only crush it once. I'd tow it back to whoever did the work and have them fix it before you destroy your gears. Crush sleeves are like a $2.00 dollar part... I'd get a new pinion nut while your at it, just sayin'.
 
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