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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all I hope I added this to the right section, I'm still learning the forum bear with me please.

Sometime last year I had my factory clutch basically shred to pieces on me @ around 50k miles. I opted for the Spec Stage III to replace it and allowed my family friend mechanic to install it. (My first mistake) I also went ahead and bought the MGW short throw shifter and had him throw that in as well.
Before the original clutch went bad everything was great. The car shifted extremely smooth and made virtually no noise at all. So I expected w/ the money I was spending it would be a dream once everything was installed. Unfortunately I got just the opposite.

As soon as I drove I noticed some very bad signs.

Literally the only thing replaced in the Transmission was the clutch. (Not the fly wheel or the Slave cylinder/ throw out bearing)

There was some confusion here as the tech at Spec had no advice and my mechanic seemed to think my factory stuff was fine so I put my trust in him and just did the clutch.

Ever since it is extremely hard to get into gear especially gears 1/2 and reverse. The pedal feels great no difference really from the factory feel.
My first issue was a severe vibration and after having to go out and pay someone else to reballance my driveshaft (I'm posotive it was abused in the friends shop) (dropped)

What bothers me most aside from the difficulty engageing gears is that,

When I engage first gear and start to let out the clutch and the car starts to go it lets out a distinct metal on metal squeal sound it's only for a quick second usually but it can and has been pretty loud at times.

This also happens when I down shift from Gear 3 to gear 2 or 2 to 1,It lets out the same sound as above.

I have ABSOLUTELY no doubt it is coming from the bell housing area and is directly related to the transmission/clutch itself.

My question is this;
What would cause these symptoms? Why is a 3-400 dollar shifter harder to engage than the factory?
Why is there a sueaking/squealing like metal squeaking/squealing noise when I leave in 1st gear or down shift into the lower gears?

Best I can think of is the throw out bearing needs to be replaced.
(He did not grease the shaft because the computer did not call for it. Not sure if he was supposed to or not.)
As far as the difficulty engaging into the gears from inside the car @ the shifter, I have no idea what would cause this, Maybe the throw out Bearing maybe a link or something.

Please Please help,
Any advice would be greatly appreciated I have been living with this for far too long and want it fixed ASAP.
Thank you
 

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The throw out bearing is hydro, so it could be fine but did he bleed it right and so forth? Also the spec stage 3 is a really aggressive clutch, especially if your stock or have some bolt on's. Alot of people either hate that clutch or like it or can just tolerate it. I need something more aggressive but i'm going with a spec stage 2+.
 

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I have an MGW shifter in my 07 and its great.

But yes sounds like your throw out bearing is bad. Which it should have been replaced any time you replace the clutch. Did the flywheel get resurfaced? I am sure you have multiple issues and would be best to tear it down yourself (if your mechanically inclined to do so) or take it to a shop and see if they can salvage the rest of your clutch. My guess would be no. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have an MGW shifter in my 07 and its great.

But yes sounds like your throw out bearing is bad. Which it should have been replaced any time you replace the clutch. Did the flywheel get resurfaced? I am sure you have multiple issues and would be best to tear it down yourself (if your mechanically inclined to do so) or take it to a shop and see if they can salvage the rest of your clutch. My guess would be no. Sorry.
I am mechanically inclined however I have a lovely Mother in law that decided to pick a fight with me and the misses and trashed our entire storage unit after a move last year. Throwing away our entire house worth of stuff, including my tools. So no I can't do anything I basically have a decent socket set and some screw drivers at this point.

I think the clutch is fine it still seems to be pretty tuff, And with the issues I've never really beat it up at all since it was installed.

I think I'm going to try changing or I should say try having the throw out bearing changed out. and see where that takes me. I just hate spending money to fix something w/o knowing for sure it's gonna work.

If it is the throw out bearing/slave cylinder, Would that also correct the difficulty going into gear???????

I'm almost positive it's the cause of the loud noise when I take off. but I wantit all taken care of not just the noise


Yes the flywheel was turned/resurfaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The throw out bearing is hydro, so it could be fine but did he bleed it right and so forth? Also the spec stage 3 is a really aggressive clutch, especially if your stock or have some bolt on's. Alot of people either hate that clutch or like it or can just tolerate it. I need something more aggressive but i'm going with a spec stage 2+.
To be honest I really don't know if he bleed it rightor not I know he did but whether it was right or not, Who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was the shaft supposed to be greased or not? That was the question nobody seemed to be able to answer when all this happened.
 

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The hard to shift gears could be the slave cylinder/throwout bearing not getting the pressure plate off the flywheel. As mentioned everytime you do a clutch change it. My car has the hard to shift 1-2 and R also. Im pretty sure my P51 clutch disk is warped from doing burnouts with my linelock. When you drop the tranny check the condition of your 50,000 mile flywheel which should of been replaced with whatever Spec recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The hard to shift gears could be the slave cylinder/throwout bearing not getting the pressure plate off the flywheel. As mentioned everytime you do a clutch change it. My car has the hard to shift 1-2 and R also. Im pretty sure my P51 clutch disk is warped from doing burnouts with my linelock. When you drop the tranny check the condition of your 50,000 mile flywheel which should of been replaced with whatever Spec recommends.
LOL I was lucky enough to get the biggest dip sh!t Spec had to offer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The hard to shift gears could be the slave cylinder/throwout bearing not getting the pressure plate off the flywheel. As mentioned everytime you do a clutch change it. My car has the hard to shift 1-2 and R also. Im pretty sure my P51 clutch disk is warped from doing burnouts with my linelock. When you drop the tranny check the condition of your 50,000 mile flywheel which should of been replaced with whatever Spec recommends.
LOL I was lucky enough to get the biggest dip sh!t Spec had to offer. He knew nothing about everything and everything about nothing. He was literally no help at all.

It sounds like my throw out bearing should have def been replaced so I'll start there and see where it goes.

Any advice from anyone which to go with or who to buy from???????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Somebody ? Anybody ?

Where is the best place to buy the throwout bearing from?

Should I get it from Ford? Or go through an aftermarket dealer?
 

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At this point I would just buy it from Ford.

No the shaft does not need to be greased.

And yes the throwout bearing will make it smoother to shift.
Does the Clutch make a noise when your sitting there idle with the Trans in neutral and the clutch disengaged? Like a clunking sound?
And when you engage the clutch in neutral does it stop?
 

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I would call and talk to Jeremy at Spec. The squealing noise is something I dealt with on a spec 2+ for 20k and it drove me nuts. Never went away. Make sure your friend actually turned the flywheel, and yes use the stock Ford Slave unit. A couple of things on the slave unit. Pre-fill it prior to installing. Easy to do get the correct brake fluid place the connector in the fluid and carefully compress the unit down. When you release it will fill with fluid which makes bleeding the unit easier and quicker. While you are down their I would consider either the JPC braided line or a the upgraded steel Ford clutch line. Stock line is nylon and expands when hot. Vacum bleed the ssytem after you are done with the install. Also make sure you install a new pilot bearing. Good luck.
 
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Somebody ? Anybody ?

Where is the best place to buy the throwout bearing from?

Should I get it from Ford? Or go through an aftermarket dealer?
Hey 1SHOT1HIT,

This is Deysha with Ford Customer Service. I recommend you get it from a Ford dealer and let them install it. This install will come with 12 months or 12,000 miles (whichever comes first) of warranty.

Deysha
 

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Use the stock slavecylinder. RAM and Mcleod had adjustable ones but they are not needed and some people have had leaking problems with both.
 

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I would call and talk to Jeremy at Spec. The squealing noise is something I dealt with on a spec 2+ for 20k and it drove me nuts. Never went away. Make sure your friend actually turned the flywheel, and yes use the stock Ford Slave unit. A couple of things on the slave unit. Pre-fill it prior to installing. Easy to do get the correct brake fluid place the connector in the fluid and carefully compress the unit down. When you release it will fill with fluid which makes bleeding the unit easier and quicker. While you are down their I would consider either the JPC braided line or a the upgraded steel Ford clutch line. Stock line is nylon and expands when hot. Vacum bleed the ssytem after you are done with the install. Also make sure you install a new pilot bearing. Good luck.


Would You happen to know the part number to the ford steel clutch line? Or if you can get this through a Ford dealer?
 
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