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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2007 Mustang rough grinding in brake after changing rotors,could it be the sway bars?

About a month ago I took my 2007 Mustang into Ford for some issues, clunking noise from front end and what sounded like a rotor problem on my passenger front wheel that made a sound like a basketball thumping when I would brake, especially if I hit a bump while braking. The tech recommended new rotors due to some bad spots on the one, there was an issue with the tie rods and the sway bar links were bad. I replaced the tie rods and I replaced the rotors with aftermarket rotors since I plan to sell the car in about a year. Two weeks after the work was done I started getting a rough grinding noise in my passenger front tire when braking accompanied by a pulsation in the brake pedal. I took it back to Ford and they said the rotor didn't sound right and may be defective so they replaced the rotor. Almost two weeks after that the rough grinding brake noise and pulsation returned. It seems to happen most when I brake hard, brake in a turn, or hit a small bump when braking. Ford took everything apart and cannot find anything but are speculating the because the body seems to be in motion when the grinding occurs that replacing the sway bars may fix the issue. I have seen a few topics online that point to sway bars possibly causing similar issues, but I've also seen topics online that point to aftermarket rotors being the issue. I'm on my second rotor in a month so I'm thinking it must be another issue causing this but I don't want to keep putting money into it just on speculation.
 

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Did the Ford dealer install the after market rotors? If so, would be surprised. What you are describing does sound like a bad rotor. If it was me, I'd go with OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Ford dealer did install the aftermarket rotors. Unfortunately because there is no warranty on aftermarket parts I'm going to have to work something out with the service manager, I've already said that I would pay the difference to have install to the OEM rotors. Being that the sway bar links are bad and needed replaced anyway I'll probably have to do that and then argue the rotors when/if it doesn't solve the problem.

I just can't see how A) I've got two bad rotors in a row, meanwhile the drivers side is fine, and B) why I've had two weeks of good use out of both rotors if they were defective or why the sway bar links wouldn't have been an issue for those two weeks either.


I don't don't know the specifics of everything they checked, but I do believe I recall calipers coming up when he went down the list of everything they looked at. What can you tell me about them that may be causing the issue so that I can bring that up?
 

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If the pistons in the caliper are not functioning correctly (binding/locking /etc.) it will wear on the rotor.Have them check for uneven wear on pads and correct piston travel on the caliper.Something definitely is going wrong on that side and with the opposite side being unaffected, the after market parts ,with repeated failures ,are not the issue.Two more things to look at is any excessive runout on rotor.Meaning its not rotating parallel with the pads/caliper and also a worn loose hub bearing.I would think a dealer tech would have checked all above in detail though !! Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will ask them about that, thanks.

What they told me is that they had everything taken apart, checked the rotor and pads etc. and that the the only thing on that side that is out of the ordinary is the sway bar links. That side of the car is also where I get all of the clunky noises from those links being bad when I am on a rough road.
 
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