Ford Mustang Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Kooks Lts and steeda motor mounts on the way. I like a challenge and I'm gonna be short on funds to pay for it to be done. On a scale of 1 to 10 how hard is it?? The car only has 14,000 km on it so I think the bolts shouldn't be right seized yet.

Also when doing motor mounts(and the headers obviously) should I only undo one motor mount at a time or do they both have to be taken off to get the headers in???

I was told the Kooks gaskets suck and to reuse the factory ones along with the high temp gasket silicone.

Any other tips would be hugely appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
72,882 Posts
I would invest in a new set of OEM gaskets. As for the install, it's one of the more challenging ones. Have a good supply of beer and band-aids on hand! :gringreen
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I haven't done headers on my car yet, but if you use the search function at the top of the page there are several threads on this topic, and a couple of write-ups that should answer your questions.

Have fun. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I know its gonna be a tough one...might as well practice swearing and throwing my tools right now.

What are new gaskets worth approx?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
194 Posts
its not that hard actually just time consuming. when you get frustrated its time to take a break or quit for the night. make sure to get some flexing ratcheting wrenches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,699 Posts
I reused my OEM gaskets and have zero leaks....haven't even retorqued them down at all. About 3000 miles so far and they still look brand new. If you didn't get them coated, then I'd look at that. Helps protect the finish and keep the heat down under the hood alot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
I just installed my Kooks and X-pipe along with the ProThane mounts. It isn't really hard at all. It just takes a lot of time.
You need to remove the mid-pipe first. then remove the starter. Then remove the driver's side motor mount. Then remove the manifold bolts. You can remove the drivers side manifold pretty easily. Install the drivers side header before removing teh motor mount on the passenger's side. I had to remove the steering shaft to fit my kooks header in there without scratching up the JetHot coating. The steering shaft come out easily with three bolts. (two near bottom and one near firewall). it only goes back in one way so no worry there. Then you can remove the passenger side motor mount and manifold. Install the second header and you are 75% finished. Then do install the cats/mid-pipe and O2 sensors etc.
I re-used my OEM metal manifold gaskets and they were fine. I didnt like the gaskets Kooks sent at all so just re-used originals.
Install the cats/midpipe from front to back. Last connection to make is the rear midpipe connection to the over-axle pipes.
It took me and a friend 6 hours to do this job using hand tools in my driveway and I am 46 years old and my friend was 54 years old.
Here is my first run with the Kooks long tubes on at the track last night. I was spinning like crazy. It seems these 1.75" headers have moved my powerband down or increased my low end a whole bunch.
YouTube - Mustang GT vs. RICE
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
cool vid!

So do drivers side and put the new motor mount in and do it all back up(including motor mount?), then start on the passenger side???

And what kind of torque for the mounts??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,877 Posts
It's going to depend on two things. Your mechanical skill, and the L/T you get. I went with AmericanRacing with catted H and it took me about 6hrs on jack stans. If I would have had a lift it would have only taken me 5sh.

Yes they are more expensive to get but you get what you pay for. Kooks are also a good setup. Stay with the stock gaskets. they work fine.

If your looking for a great price give Chris a call at Tillmans. One of our site sponsors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,059 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks travelers, thats where mine are comin from. Chris is awesome to deal with.
 

·
Shelby Gt 350 member
Joined
·
9,239 Posts
I don’t know about what gaskets work best but in this day and age OEM is hard to go wrong with. It would be my first inclination. As far as high temp sealant, do it all the way. Buy the best you can find, most expensive is a pretty good way of telling and 3M products have always done me right. Keep in mind you don’t need a bead of it on the gasket though. 99% of the “sealing” work I have seen people do is horrible, they use 1000 times more than they needed. Sealer is just for the tiny imperfections in the two sealing surfaces and helps hold the gasket in place during install. I apply gasket sealer by putting on rubber gloves (the thin ones of course) working some sealer in between my thumb and first finger and simply wipe on a very thin layer of it. When the gasket is compressed you don’t need so sealant that it squirts out. That’s way too much.

As far as the job goes, it’s easy. Just a PITA. There is more fiddling around than anything. The more flex sockets, extensions, adaptors, short wrenches (never be afraid to cut a $5 wrench in half if it makes a job a lot easier), etc. If you can work with ¼ drive stuff it’s the best and if you buy one of the nicer Craftsman ¼ drive ratchets with the smaller (more) teeth it makes life real nice because you can swing it in tight spots and it will make progress. Snap-On has an outstanding ¼ drive ratchet with I think its 65 teeth and that sucker makes life real easy. You can swing the ratchet just a couple of degrees and get progress. Lastly, it sounds like a waste of time but running a tap with some oil, WD40, grease, Anti-seize on it in and out of all the bolt holes will make putting the fasteners in a LOT easier. The time you spend doing it will get paid back 5 times over.

When I replaced my motor mounts I removed both at the same time using a small floor jack and a bit of 2x4, no problems at all. It still has a Trans mount.

If you prepare correctly, get the car high enough up off the ground and have a few nice tools it will make the job a lot nicer. As far as difficulty goes it’s one step harder than putting square blocks in square holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,877 Posts
I know I have at least 15-20 tools that I have cut and ground down to fit all kinds of jobs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,881 Posts

·
Shelby Gt 350 member
Joined
·
9,239 Posts
what size tap is needed?
No idea, I still run manifolds. I would guess M8 though. Whatever it is Sears will have the tap you need or any decent machie shop supply type store. It won't cost much at all.

I would suggest running some of the locking header bolts available. If/when you order them just ask what size they are. And if you already have some just pull one out and take it too the store with you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
So do drivers side and put the new motor mount in and do it all back up(including motor mount?), then start on the passenger side???
Yes you cant get to one or two of the front passenger side manifold bolts without removing the motor mount first (and ground cable).So do the drivers side first because it is hardest. There is lots of room on the passengers side once the starter and battery box are removed (3 bolts and 2 wires) but those bottom front bolts are accesible after the motor mount is removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
I would invest in a new set of OEM gaskets. As for the install, it's one of the more challenging ones. Have a good supply of beer and band-aids on hand! :gringreen
ROFL!!!
+1 on the beer.... +2 on the bandaids :hihi:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,543 Posts
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top