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Discussion Starter #1
I smelled some coolant today and this was the first place I looked. A few drops in the valley, nothing big yet but it looks fresh.

I plan on pulling the intake and doing all that, I just wanted to confirm what I needed. Does this look good?


There are two hoses, I'm not sure which one is leaking so I'll do both. Silly question, what does the elbow connect to (the push on part)? Does coolant run through the intake? I can see it contacts to a belt J type hose that appears to be connected to the intake itself?

On never mind, I see now. It connects to the cross over.
 

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Correct. It connects to the metal cross over via a metal connection. The elbow has a couple of o-rings to provide a seal which wear out.

Mine did this leaking issue and that combined hose above worked for mine. I had a difficult time getting the plastic elbow off which basically crubmled and was destroyed when I removed it (lots of heat here and elbow really shouldn't be the plastic they use).

Others have used high temp heater hose and adapters and hose clamps to fix the issue. I plan to do this if it happens again.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I watched a few videos of people doing that. I'm just going to go OEM for now at least. I'm probably going to get the heater hoses that connect to that assembly I posted above, that to the firewall.

And while I have the entire intake off, I might as well do the plugs too lol. I guess there probably isn't any way to worm that assembly in and do it with the intake on?
 

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I definitely would not try replacing it with the intake on. Very difficult to access the plastic elbow that I fought with even with the intake off.
 

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when removing the intake manifold, there are 2 hidden bolts on the inside of the runners directly across from each other under the fuel crossover line. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
when removing the intake manifold, there are 2 hidden bolts on the inside of the runners directly across from each other under the fuel crossover line. good luck
Excellent. I've done intakes before so it's not my first rodeo, but never on the 3v. I'm assuming it's fairly close to the 2v just no coolant lines involved.

Can those bolts be access without removing the cross over? My plan was to remove the fuel line from the rail on the driver side, unbolt and remove the entire manifold (with injectors still in the manifold) as a whole?

Also, the hose coming off the back of the water pump. I watched a video where the guy described that hose, but didn't actually show or go in detail other than something about some O-rings?
 

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The tube just pushes on. No retaining clip. Mine developed a crack in the 90 degree elbow seen in the pic. So I just replaced the elbow and didn't have to replace the heater tube assembly. I do plan on going back later to replace it and the heater hoses. I didn't do it at the time due to tight funds.
777882
 
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Here are service manual pages for removing the intake manifold.

I carefully removed the fuel rails with the injectors and flipped it over to rest on the driver fender covered with a towel. You can partially see the fuel rail assembly in this pic from when I replaced the timing gear a few years ago.
777883
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Here are service manual pages for removing the intake manifold.

I carefully removed the fuel rails with the injectors and flipped it over to rest on the driver fender covered with a towel. You can partially see the fuel rail assembly in this pic from when I replaced the timing gear a few years ago.
View attachment 777883
Thank you! Much appreciated for the pics and service manual. I had the part fedex overnighted, so I might do it this weekend assuming I can get intake gaskets, injector o-ring gaskets etc. I'm going to do the fuel rail like your pic shows, not even going to disconnect the feed line.
 

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I'll also say from what I remember when I had it apart, it looked like the battery and tray will need to be removed to access the nut/bolt that mounts the heater tube assembly to the back of the head or block.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I checked it again today after work. I think its leaking at the back of the water pump, and not that 90 degree push on connection... Hard to tell tho with the intake and everything on. What O-rings are you talking about? Can I purchase them seperate, because the part I ordered (showed up today actually, Fedex overnight ftw) doesn't have O-rings for that tube.
 

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The o-rings are on this part which is pressed in behind the water pump.
You could probably go to your local Autozone and see if they have it in stock and ask if you can get the o-ring measurements or just buy the part and transfer the o-rings to yours. Just be sure to lube all connections with coolant or a silicone based lube like Sil-Glide before connecting them. Don't use motor oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lol, I just found this out not but a few minutes ago from when you posted. From what I saw today, I think that nipple or the o-rings might be it. I might as well get this:


I'm assuming I take the water pump off, tap it out then put the new one in? I need to rename this car the money pit, because it's becoming that way.... Now I'm trying to debate on just getting a new water pump as well. Maybe this?:

 

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Yep. You have to remove the water pump to install it. And if you do, yep might as well replace the pump.
 

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I'm slowly gathering parts in order to do the '07-'10 coolant crossover conversion. When the time comes I'll also replace the heater hose assembly, thermostat, water pump, and radiator hoses at the same time as preventive maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I'm probably just going to do the hose assembly, nipple, MMR water pump, coolant flush, spark plugs and fuel filter in one go. I checked again today because I drove the car for a few hours. Very little coolant loss, but it appears to be coming from the nipple after all. I see a small trail of coolant toward the front of the engine just under the nipple area. Bone dry under the 90 degree connection.

Speaking of which, any known issues or objections going with the MMR water pump? I'm probably over thinking this, but it wouldn't be too much pressure or flow would it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
About to get everything ordered up but having some issues with the pump size. Is a 2010 a 2.5 or 3.5 inch pump? I measured on the car, and I'm getting 4 inch's from the block to the end of the pulley (where the 4 bolts are).
 

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Based on the Ford description on LMR.com we have the long design.
"The pump measures 87mm from the block mating surface to the front pulley mating surface." 87mm=3.4252in
 
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