i am currently running my TVS with the Brenspeed R560 package (de-tuned a little bit) on my stock bottom end. I also have the dual GT500 fuel pumps.
Next year I would like to start my engine build (complete longblock, to later sell my stock engine, it only has 21K miles) in parallel and then swap once it is complete.
My goals are some RWHP (many) and above 600rwtq... and as close to stock driveability as possible....
Now I am unsure, which setup will give me the best approach to my goals:
FRPP 5.0 stroker (Aluminum block) short block
or
4.6 build bottom end
4.75 MMR stroker
or
BOSS 5.0 block with forged internals (adds 60lbs to my front end) either as a 5.0 (unstroked), 5.15 or 5.3L stroker?
I have seen Brenspeed has some TVS with over 600rwtq on the B326, so apart from the 60lbs, is it the best choice to go with the big bore?
The next question is heads and cams. I am leaning towards the FRPP stage 1 heads, as i am not sure about the reliability of the Stage 3 (apart from 2x price). Would the stage 1 be enough? What cams? If i look at Comp's website, most of them need high gears (i have 3.55)...i assume that would affect driveability a lot. Any hints?
The good thing is, that the 2010 TVS comes with the large IC+Reservoir and basically all 2011+ TVS kits build on that. So i would assume that the IC setup should be good. Engine cooling, i am thinking about the FRPP radiator + SVT Fan setup to help keep the engine cool..
Anu advice on a decent clutch, that has close to stock feel, but holds 600rwtq? Yes i know the tranny needs some love, too....
Any thoughts or hints to get me on the right track?
I think another engine you need to add to the list is the 5.4L. You get more displacement, but at a reduced cost, and its very similar to the 4.6. This means an easier time with accessories, and electronics/sensors. You probably dont have to build it up that much to get 600RWHP either. Downside might be more truck like torque.
Well, I ruled the 5.4 out, due to the fact it has a different deck height. With the other options, i can reuse my TVS intake etc..
The 5.3 stroker option on the Boss block gives me almost the same displacement, with the same deck height... it just has the 3.700 bore instead of the 3.552 and i can reuse everything..
More like 90-100lb extra. And you don't have enough blower (2.3L) to need the extra displacement to keep boost down. That blower will run out of breath at about 18psi on a 4.6L which is still pump gas safe.
I have seen Brenspeed has some TVS with over 600rwtq on the B326, so apart from the 60lbs, is it the best choice to go with the big bore?
The next question is heads and cams. I am leaning towards the FRPP stage 1 heads, as i am not sure about the reliability of the Stage 3 (apart from 2x price). Would the stage 1 be enough?
Run the stock cams if you want stock drivability and fat torque. Any aftermarket cams will kill your low end TQ for a very small top end gain.
The good thing is, that the 2010 TVS comes with the large IC+Reservoir and basically all 2011+ TVS kits build on that. So i would assume that the IC setup should be good.
You are over thinking/over planning and making it more complicated/expensive than it needs to be to reach your goals. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid:shigrin)
so to summarize your input Squidd:
FRPP 5.0 stroker shortblock
Standard or stage 1 heads (almost the same price)
Stock cams (what's your thought on the FRPP cams?)
BAP for GT500
Upgraded IC pump
AFCO Heat exchanger (I assume the one with the fans)
McLeod RST clutch (800hp)
Maybe the SVT Fan upgrade (my choice)
2.75" pulley
10% overdrive crankshaft pulley
The only thing I haven't figured out, is the belt size. What belt do I need to get?
Thanks
Hot Rod cams will kill your torque, not give you much top end at all and are hard to tune for. I've put plenty in for friends. They never end up being worth it. They do sound cool though.
Real hard to tell from the pics. And you never know how these places measure their stuff. Does that include the tanks or not? How thick are they? What size tubes do they have and are they multi row. Also how big are the inlet/outlets?
I would get all the specs on the Roush and the Edlebrock and then compare them. It's hard to tell from the pictures what is what.
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