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I am also considering buying subframe connectors for my Mustang GT. I like a firm and good handling car. Which ones do people recommend and what is the result in the handling if you can tell... Bolt on or welded? In my 2003 Cobra and 1990 LX I welded them on as bolt ons were considered not useful...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
boxed or tubular?

Would you recommend the boxed over the tubular for the extra stiffness despite the extra cost? Is the difference noticeable?
 

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S197's don't need subframe connectors in the least. The main tub is a BRICK! I know of 3 4100lb GT500's that can run in the 9's if they want too and none of them have subframe connectors.

At least one of the three was running in the 10's, pulling the front wheels and weighs 4350lb with driver and he ran no cage and connectors for a while.....till they wouldn't let him run that fast anymore without a cage.:D The car never had any of the chassis twisting issues seen with past gen cars (broken windshields, doors that wouldn't shut right, rattles, uneven body seems, etc).

I've put my car on jackstands (under the main tub) and set it up so they were at slightly different heights (slightly, as in 1/4"). The chassis did not flex at all. I could rock the car from stand to stand by hand. You wouldn't have been able to do this with a pre S197. It would have flexed enough to contact the "lower" stands.
 

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Well, why is it that Consumer Reports for my 2006 GT says that it has exterior stability problems. Which tells me that the frame is not good. Also, I spun out during a ice storm last year and I can tell a difference in how my car corners, and the tires show uneven ware like there is a problem with the frame IMO. So, I ordered bolt-in subframe connectors for now, until I can find someone to weld them in for me. Never hurts to have extra security especially since my wife and I are trying for a little one later down the road :smilie
 

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Well, why is it that Consumer Reports for my 2006 GT says that it has exterior stability problems. Which tells me that the frame is not good. Also, I spun out during a ice storm last year and I can tell a difference in how my car corners, and the tires show uneven ware like there is a problem with the frame IMO. So, I ordered bolt-in subframe connectors for now, until I can find someone to weld them in for me. Never hurts to have extra security especially since my wife and I are trying for a little one later down the road :smilie
Please post your results once installed... thanks!!!
 

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do some research, all the professional builders say sub frame connectors are not needed. Griggs builds some of the hottest mustang track cars and they do not use them. I too can attest to jacking a corner of the car and seeing no twist or flex at all.
"Also, I spun out during a ice storm last year and I can tell a difference in how my car corners, and the tires show uneven ware like there is a problem with the frame IMO."
not sure what you are implying here? do you think you twisted your frame? If so connectors wont fix the problem, you need the frame straightened/repaired. Installing them on a twisted frame will only make it worse.
"Consumer Reports for my 2006 GT says that it has exterior stability problems."
exterior stability problems can be caused by many different things, chassis flex would be seen on racing and hi HP/Torque applications, not the normal street situations that consumer reports would be testing for. Bolt on sub frame connectors on a 2011 would only add weight and the holes drilled will weaken the structure and give oxidation a place to begin.
"Never hurts to have extra security since my wife and I are trying for a little one"
what security would sub frame conn give you?
have a good shop check for frame damage if you are concerned your car is unsafe. If you want the connectors for the cool factor, go for it.
 

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I dont race my Mustang at all. I used to race my old Firehawk constantly, from what I can see you done to your Stang, I did the same with my old Firehawk, and my driving record shows it. Just from my experiences with that car and research that I have done myself for this one. That is all and giving my own opinion like everyone else. :yup:
 

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For a Street car or drag car no you don't need them. Pre 2005 sure you would want them in particular on convertables. I have them on y 90 GT vert.

Multimatic, Roush, and others use them on race only vehicles for serious competition and MUltimatic goes far and beyond sub frames welding cross webbing into the floor pan for a more rigid ride. I drove an FR500 GT at a driving school and the floor pan bracing was serious work.


For about $125,000 you can have a real bad ass road course racing machine.
Ford Racing FR500C - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine
 

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Resurrecting thread to correct Misinformation. Just because the S 197 is stronger than previous models does not mean that it cannot benefit from subframe connectors. The first thing a race team does with the chassis is seam weld it. If it was so strong why would they bother? Chassis stiffness is key to handling and it really cannot be too stiff and compared to german cars our chassis are marshmallows. Who cares if a guy runs in the 9's without them. You can't say he would not be faster with them. Stiffler makes subframe connectors that are less than 40lbs. Well worth the weight.
 

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Holy necropost, Batman. This thread comes from a time when the Coyote platform and any chassis tweaks were still unknowns.

Let me say this: stiffer does not mean safer, necessarily. A car is a safety system and bolstering one part can lead to other areas being weakened, maybe to failure. I'm going to show you the safety system in action. In Sept. I spun, jumped a curb and hit a 10 inch alder with the passenger door of my 2012. That rolled the car over and put her on her roof. I self-extricated and walked away with two busted ribs and no other injuries. It would not have been good for anyone in the passenger seat, had there been anyone, but, the factory unreinforced frame rail stopped the penetration of the tree into the cabin dead.

Now, would subframes have helped here? Who knows. I do know this accident was viewed by emergency personnel attending as likely non-survivable and that these practical experts could not believe I walked out on my own, essentially uninjured.
 

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Not necessary on these cars.
 

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I put UMI bolt-ins in mine as the first mod for the piece of mind, it didn't add much weight and I didn't have to drill any holes for the install. Seemed like they made a difference stock so I'd think they're an even bigger help now that I'm S/Ced.
 

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I put UMI bolt-ins in mine as the first mod for the piece of mind, it didn't add much weight and I didn't have to drill any holes for the install. Seemed like they made a difference stock
Made a difference based on what?
 

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Made a difference based on what?
The car felt more firm/solid when I pushed it hard. Things really came together when I added the strut tower brace and the rear shock tower brace.
 

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I am also considering buying subframe connectors for my Mustang GT. I like a firm and good handling car. Which ones do people recommend and what is the result in the handling if you can tell... Bolt on or welded? In my 2003 Cobra and 1990 LX I welded them on as bolt ons were considered not useful...


I see your car is lowered, but what about shocks/struts/bushings/roll-bars? I'm thinking subframe connectors won't do much until those are addressed first.
 

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Like I said, not necessary.
 
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