2011 Mustang GT - Your Audio Upgrade Recommendations?

9386 Views 14 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Corepuncher, Jun 28, 2011

Dude_Abides

Discussion Starter · Feb 9, 2011

Say I gave you a brand new 2011 Mustang GT (base trim, not premium. you're welcome anyway). Say I also gave you 700 bucks to upgrade the stereo. What would you do with that money to make the stereo sound... nice, for lack of a better word?

Background: I just picked up my car this weekend, and it's easily the greatest purchase of my adult life. That said, I know I'd like to upgrade the audio components in the next month or so. I also know next to nothing about car stereos. I've done a little research online, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask all you wiser, more experienced mustang owners for advice.

The idea is to pick the best bang-for-the-buck components and have them professionally installed somewhere around Austin. And I'd like to keep the stock head unit. The budget is a little flexible, but I'm hoping to get out for well under a grand, preferably closer to the 600-700 range. I listen to all types of music, so I'm looking for a well-rounded system. A single sub would be nice, but I don't need to rattle any fillings. I'm more interested in sound reproduction than power.

So... what would *you* do? Any advice is welcome; general planning, brand recommendations, part recommendations, tips, the places to look for the best prices, etc.

Thanks in advance for your help! I'm sure I left out some important information... I'll do better next time!

Status: Not open for further replies.

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

mad4macs

· #2 · Feb 9, 2011

Keeping the stock head unit means you're adding speakers and not much else. I suppose you could splice speaker outputs into an amp's in, but EWWWWW.

"Component" shopping means yanking the head unit out and replacing it, selecting an amp and speakers.

Either way, $700 isn't going to go far. Last 'Stang I did went 2x that amount, and it was pretty basic!

Blueblaze

· #3 · Feb 9, 2011

Did your 2011 GT base come with a Shaker500 head unit?
If so and you want plug and play sound mods, I have done these before on a 2008 GT and it is a great improvement over stock and will fit in your budget.

Add:

Saleen 12 in subwoofer trunk unit, custom clean fit made for our cars. Has an additional 150 watt amp build in. Not over powering bass but just enough to improve the overall sound. Can be found on Ebay and other site both new and used between $300-$450. Comes with plug & play wiring no cutting required and directions are pretty good. Took 1 hour to install

Replace both your rear deck and door speakers. I used Polk 5x7 DB 571 from Crutchfield. Around $200 for the 4 of them but can be purchased for less if on sale. No need to change out your round factory door sub-woofers. they are fine. Crutchfield supplies the wiring adapters for the plug and play and their install instructions are outstanding. Took 2.5 hours to install

All can be installed by you. Because its all plug and play it can be pulled from the car without any problem if you ever change out your Stang.

hope that helps..PM me if you have more questions

:wavey

See less See more

Heinz57

· #4 · Feb 9, 2011

my opinion

JL audio clean sweep will allow you to keep your stock head unit. You can find it for about 110 dollars. The clean sweep will allow you to override the stock head unit and interface with Amps. Get a good pair of component speakers for the front like JL audio C5s a decent pair of coax speakers for the rear and add a subwoofer later.

Threebanger

· #5 · Feb 9, 2011

Shelby/Kicker upgrade is plug and play on Shaker systems but does the base come with the 500?. It's on my list of mods to do to her.

vSPARXv

· #6 · Feb 9, 2011

He doesn't have the shaker system or head unit. He has a base GT. He would need like the JL "clean sweep" to add some bass. I believe speakers can added to stock head unit by tapping into stock wire but won't sound it's best until he adds a amp or switches head units

Blueblaze

· #7 · Feb 9, 2011

:waveyGot it, understood, no Shaker 500. Well, I would say, lots of options out there. Sorry for going down this path in the thread.

Also, for anyone with a Shaker500, is looking to do a plug and play upgrade, these worked well for me..

Good Luck !!!

SVS

· #8 · Feb 9, 2011

2

Run the auxiliary wire out the side of the console (drill a small hole) instead of thru the top where the opening FORD made is worthless. If you are in and out of that compartment you sure as hell don't want the wire exiting up top anyways.

I need 12" sub boxes (Saleen 12 in subwoofer trunk unit- or comparable for the corners) if anyone has one for sale.

Would not mind one for each corner of the trunk as I have two subs and and an high quality amp pulled from a prior vehicle.

If anyone has one or knows where to buy one please let me know.

My local stereo shop has offered to "build one" custom for the vehicle.. A purpose built one is another option.

Thanks.

See less See more

Heinz57

· #9 · Feb 10, 2011

Buy quality

The JL Audio Clean sweep will clean the stock head unit audio signal. The signal is as good most aftermarket head units. Buy a a good 4 channel amp and a Good quality Component speakers. Trust me if you push a 100 watts through a set of C5'd or Mbquarts the sound is amazing. You have loud clear highs and clear mid base. Add a base tube or Stealth box when more funds become available. Replacing all your speakers with aftermarket coax will not sound nearly as good as one set of quality component speakers

Dude_Abides

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 10, 2011

Excellent

Thanks, all. This has been helpful already.

Heinz - I read up a little on the JL Audio Clean Sweep, and it sounds like this might be a good starting point. I like the idea of keeping the stock head unit; i rarely see aftermarket head units that don't take away from the aesthetic appeal of a car's interior. (i'm sure they're out there, but i probably can't afford them)

You mention the JL Audio C5 line - is there a particular version i should be looking at? 525, 650, etc? (sorry if this is a dumb question) I assume they are different sizes, power, etc?

Cheers

icckart

· #11 · Feb 10, 2011

Blueblaze said:
Replace both your rear deck and door speakers. I used Polk 5x7 DB 571 from Crutchfield. Around $200 for the 4 of them but can be purchased for less if on sale. No need to change out your round factory door sub-woofers. they are fine. Crutchfield supplies the wiring adapters for the plug and play and their install instructions are outstanding. Took 2.5 hours to install

All can be installed by you. Because its all plug and play it can be pulled from the car without any problem if you ever change out your Stang.

hope that helps..PM me if you have more questions

:wavey

I have the Shaker500 and looked into doing exactly this (or 6x9). BUT... I looked at the nice videos linked to on a prev. thread. Looks like MANY hours of work to replace door+rear deck speakers. The vids. are VERY detailed. Just scared me a bit when I found out you gotta remove the rear seats, all rear trim (incl. A-panel covers).

So, REALISTICALLY for a 1st-timer, how long would it take to do all four?

opq

· #12 · Feb 10, 2011

What about replacing just the two door speakers? One on each side? How long do you guys estimate that will take? Is it a job for an audio newbie?

Heinz57

· #13 · Feb 10, 2011

Jl audio c5s are a line of Component speakers. They come in various sizes. There are many other companies that make good or better. JL audio is what happens to be at local shops.

REQ5 is another product similar to clean sweep. It may be few dollars cheaper and in my opinion is as good as clean sweep.

newfiveoh

· #14 · Feb 10, 2011

icckart said:
I have the Shaker500 and looked into doing exactly this (or 6x9). BUT... I looked at the nice videos linked to on a prev. thread. Looks like MANY hours of work to replace door+rear deck speakers. The vids. are VERY detailed. Just scared me a bit when I found out you gotta remove the rear seats, all rear trim (incl. A-panel covers).

So, REALISTICALLY for a 1st-timer, how long would it take to do all four?

I did it for the first time, followed that youtube vid. Took me 20 mins to get the panel off the 1st time. After that the next one took me 10.

Corepuncher

· #15 · Jun 28, 2011

SVS said:
Run the auxiliary wire out the side of the console (drill a small hole) instead of thru the top where the opening FORD made is worthless. If you are in and out of that compartment you sure as hell don't want the wire exiting up top anyways.

I need 12" sub boxes (Saleen 12 in subwoofer trunk unit- or comparable for the corners) if anyone has one for sale.

Would not mind one for each corner of the trunk as I have two subs and and an high quality amp pulled from a prior vehicle.

If anyone has one or knows where to buy one please let me know.

My local stereo shop has offered to "build one" custom for the vehicle.. A purpose built one is another option.

Thanks.

OMG, you seriously have a hole in the side of your console with a wire just coming straight out?

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

Status: Not open for further replies.