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Discussion Starter #1
i appologize if im beating a dead horse with the maintenance question(s) but i couldnt find definent posts/threads to my question. im get a new 2012 5.0 w/ brembos and was highly considering of putting in royal purple tranny/differential fluid in after the break in. and also z-max into the engine to prolong its life. i plan to keep this car for quite some time so i want to give her the best so she can return the favor many miles down the road. all thoughts and suggestions are well appreciated.:bigthumbsup

p.s. i plan on driver her hard :D
 

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As far as the engine, the Ford oil is already a syn blend, and running anything other than Ford recommended fluids might be a problem if something goes wrong. I know many will say as long as it meets spec, etc. but adding something to the oil isn't necessary. As far as the tranny, I've run RP in many cars and like it, and it should meet Ford's spec, check the label or their website, you shouldn't have a problem with it. I ran the stuff in a rebuilt AOD and really liked how smooth the tranny shifted after I changed to it. I'm also putting the stuff in a race car.
 
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Sure it won't hurt but it's probably overkill. It's just a car. I hope you guys are this vigilant with your family and health.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As far as the engine, the Ford oil is already a syn blend, and running anything other than Ford recommended fluids might be a problem if something goes wrong. I know many will say as long as it meets spec, etc. but adding something to the oil isn't necessary. As far as the tranny, I've run RP in many cars and like it, and it should meet Ford's spec, check the label or their website, you shouldn't have a problem with it. I ran the stuff in a rebuilt AOD and really liked how smooth the tranny shifted after I changed to it. I'm also putting the stuff in a race car.
ford has a specific oil spec required for the 2011-12's? and also i forgot to mention the use of some lucas oil, the worst on an engine is a cold start because the cylindar walls have little to no oil on them (from what ive been told). want the car to be in tip top shape 24/7-365
 

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Simple, drive the car and perform the regularly scheduled maintenance. To ensure you never have any questions for a warranty claim, always use a Ford oil filter and Ford 5w20 synthetic blend oil.

If you want to use the additives or full synthetic oil, enjoy spending the extra money, I don't believe they translate into real savings or better performance for the money. Cheers!
 

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I suspect full synthetic oil wouldn't cause a warranty problem. It costs more, but you did say you plan to drive it hard, yes?

Every dealer I have used for oil changes on other makes has a full synthetic option, either Castrol or Mobil 1. Unless Ford specifically says not to, I would go with full synthetic and the top-shelf oil filter, and let the dealer do the work.

And double check the dealer's work. Inspect the oil before you take it in, and check the condition of the oil filter. Scratch the filter somehow.

When you pick up the car, check the oil level yourself right there to be sure there weren't any mistakes (and check that it looks new).

And when you get home, check that the filter really is new.

When you have someone rotate your tires, offer to pay extra for them to use a torque wrench and put the wheels back on in an X-pattern. Most shop guys will use that air wrench and pound it down on each nut, then the next. That risks warping the rotors. That happened to one of mine.

They say those little colored adapters for the air wrench are calibrated for torque, but they used one of those and ruined the rotors on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
to 88penguins- ya i really plan on beating the **** outa car, the main reason why i started this thread was to get everyones opinions on the best addiditves to keep the car in tip top shape and running like new for years with possibly lz-max, lucas oil, and royal purple throughout the tranny and the differential and clean the spark plugs every 4-5k miles. just wanted everyone elses opinions who have a lot more mechanical know how.

to kn7671- do u know if there a requirement for the ford motorcraft oil? because i see a lot of ppl talking about it??
 

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Yikes..... This isn't the 1960's. I hope you are not serious about cleaning the plugs that often. All you'll be doing is working the plug threads and wasting a lot of time. Iridium plugs do not need to be cleaned and will last over 100,000 miles with no degradation in performance. You're asking for a helicoil kit in those heads before 100,000 if you do that.

Also, additives simply are not needed, and there is very little real testing that proves they do anything. I know every one of those makers will post up bogus, inflated test results but they are selling you something. The tests are usually crap anyways. If they were needed, they'd already be in the oil spec. 99.999999% of people will never use them, and 200,000 mile cars are getting quite common. You wouldn't catch me dead pouring Lucas motor honey into a tight clearanced engine like this. Same thing with the Z-Max, Engine Restore, STP, etc.

Use a quality oil if it makes you feel better, but realize the Motorcraft oil is very good and UOA testing has shown this too. If the current oil is doing it's job of protecting, a "better" oil will reap you no benefits whatsoever. If you must, buy a high end oil. But please don't go dumping numerous mystery additives into that engine!
 

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With the tight clearances of TI-VCT, I'd use an oil that as closely resembles what comes in the car from the factory. With the transmission...it has enough problems on it's own. I'm not sure I'd be playing with voodoo fluids, especially since Ford will likely trash your warranty if anything expensive comes up for repair. Magnusson Moss Act blah blah blah. All fine and well until you have to actually go to court and fight Ford's attorneys.

Don't go overboard with it...It was designed to run at top performance for at least 100,000 miles with only the replacement of wear items like clutch, brakes, and suspension components. Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ty guys for all the input im just amazed that everyone is saying the car is built to hold its own, im just to used to working on older cars i guess, times are changing and so are the engines :headscratch:
 

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Engines have changed over the years, tighter clearances and fuel injection. Probably the biggest cause of wear was the cylinders being washed down by over-rich mixtures that don't happen anymore due to tight control over f/a mixtures due to computer controlled fuel injection. Machining is better than it was and tighter clearances are possible which is why you don't need to run the thick oil like you used to. Because of better control on the fuel and better oil, oil lasts longer and now the recommended change interval is 7500 miles. Use the recommended oils and enjoy!
As far as plugs, a couple of my vehicles have 110,000 miles and no misfire, still pass California's smog check with flying colors. I'm thinking about changing them some day, but not loosing any sleep over it.
 
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